Switch to Synthitic Oil?

Good thing to do. It takes a while to rid the standard oils. So after first change maybe after a few thousand miles change again.

Very good oil choice. Don't know specifically what's best for the 328 but I use 5W40 Redline in my 360.

 

I use redline 5/30 in my 308qv

 

Synthetic is fully compatible with non-synthetic. Just change it, and run it to your normal interval.

 

Not sure of the mileage on your 328 but I have noticed in other cars that I have changed from mineral to synthetic with higher mileage that oil consumption rises quite quickly.

May possibly be worth looking at a semi synthetic?

Either way talk to your Redline rep I have found them very good with info.

 

The motorcycle guys will neer use synthetic oil - this has been well known for years:

Subject: Beware synthetic oil

Beware of synthetic oil, it can do terrible things to you and your beloved motorcycle. It will not only leak out of your engine faster than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication system. It also will make every part of your bike permanently slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action. Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract automatically, dropping your bike on the ground! But that's not all...

Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. It will also splatter onto your seat causing your girlfriend to fall off in the apex of a turn and she'll never ride with you again. Synthetic oil coats your sight window and your timing window with a whitish pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak onto the ground overnight and your dog will drink it and die.

Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full leathers on and then jam your zippers shut. It will contaminate your gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate uncontrollably near police cars. It will make it rain during rallies and on weekends. It will lubricate four timing belts causing them to jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every six miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots night before you walk across your new carpeting.

While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your windscreen with the bridge of your nose. It also causes your swingarm to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp, and then it voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555. It also dries out your wetclutch and wets your dryclutch. It makes your clutch slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good measure.

Synthetic oil hides your 13mm socket and puts superglue on your earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your faceshield and make your gloves shrink two sizes night before trackday. Synthetic oil stole your neutral and sold it to the Chinese for $1.25. Synthetic oil will make you grow a tail.

 

Yup, as per federal law.

No special measures needed. just drain and refill.

 

...not another oil thread !@#$##^%$. Ok, how about Mobil 1 (that comment ought to get the thread really going!).

 

drip...drip...drip...

 

30W is lighter than 40W at operating temp so if anything you'd go to a 50W for the track because it will cope with higher temps (as I understand it). Anything W40 seems to be the right kind of thing for general use.

0W40 would be better than 5W40 which would be better than 10W40 because the lower the first number the lighter at cold temps meaning it will get up round the engine faster at cold start (which is when a lot of wear takes place).

20W50 will be quite thick at cold and stay thicker until you get the thing really warm. Personally I think its too thick at cold and hot for normal use. Probably gives great oil pressure though! However, high oil pressure is not the end-all and be-all. Oil flow volume/throughput is arguably more important.

Easiest available 0W40 synth I know of is Mobil 1 & I've just dumped 9 litres (near enough) of it in my 328 (after using Castrol Magnatec 10W40 for years). No leaks yet but then I havn't actually driven the car since I changed it!

You can never get all the old oil out, there is probably 1/2 a litre at least gets stuck in the oil cooler because (at least on my car) the bottom oil cooler hose rises up out the cooler before it meets the block and oil won't drain uphill!

 

I use 5-40. If it was to be run really hard at the track and I was seeing oil temps getting over 250 or so I would go to a 50.

 

The seals and gaskets on 3X8 cars don't agree well with synthetic oils....too much leakage.

 

Futureman,
You need to get that mud out of your motor. It does not protect well at startup. You will notice your manual calls for 10-40. Ferrari changed from 50 weight to 40 weight at some point during 328 production although there were no changes in the motors. Oils have improved greatly. I have used mobil 1 0-40 in my 328's for years. The thinner it is at startup, the better. Typically, you will get about 80-85% of the oil in the motor out in an oil change. When I got my "replacement" 328 last year, the previous owner had 10-50 in it. Since it was very fresh, I changed the oil, but not the filter, then ran it for another 300 miles and changed the oil and the filter. That way I figure I have at least 95% of the new stuff.

Dave

 

I don't know anyone here who is NOT running a full synth in their 3X8's, and it doesn't seem to be a problem at all.
Mine has been running on synth for many years, no leaks (knock on wood)

 

Ferraris in that era including the 328 came with a blended oil from AGIP. That being said, I am using Brad Penn dino oil in my BB512i and have been well pleased.

 

Will synthetic oil work with the case seals in older cars?

 

notice i abbreviate a lot. also i scribble words i can't spell.
just like doktahs...

 

I love this response. It's genuine and definitely not synthetic!!!

 

No synth for me. Castrol 20 50 only.

 

Your absolutely correct, but what do you do? Replace all the seals because you want to run synthetic? I won't.