My car is a late 84 all stock with a custom exhaust and k&N air filters. I chronographed the car and I was at flat 5 sec as an average with the extremes being 4.9 and almost not quite 5.1 on a bad start. Many years ago it was way faster than a 91 Tr we run it against all the way to a hundred . This car will go to 160 easily and can do 180 on the speedo if there is enough room without much trouble. Every Ferrari mechanic that has ever driven it made comments about how surprising powerfull the car felt to them. Is it just my car or do the other owners of stock cars out there have similar performance. When I read stuff I hear of BBis with much slower performance numbers. I am running p Zeros 285/40 /17s at the rear and 245/45 at the front and my CO right at two percent. Stock headers and custom exhaust with two little vibrant mufflers. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sounds like you amy be having engine problems with times like 5 sec for a 0-60 KPH. Might want to check it out. Rgds, Vincenzo ;-)
Vincenzo I see your point you must drive a Testarossa ,I had one also in the past. Sold it when I got the Boxer.
Touche! Also in white. My first F-Car ride was in a boxer... it also has a special place in my heart - right there next to the Daytona. If I hit the lotto - they'll also have a special place in my garage! Rgds, Vincenzo
That, my friend, is one unbeleavibly beautiful car. I literally am almost speachless. Great color-really pops in white!
Mario, nice ride. I have never seen white/tan boxer before. Very fresh....and fast too! Enjoy those open roads up there.
I don't even like white cars. Some I would actually run from. Yours - for some inexplicable reason - is just great looking. The wheels look really nice, and the whole car just looks crisp. Nice. You're a brave man to read all these threads on diff explosion and still crack off some solid 0-60 times! Bravo!
Every time I push the loud pedal I fear steel chunks bouncing off the roadway in a pool of gear oil. To get those times, does one have to brutalize the machine?
My experience with this car since the early nineties that I got it has been bullet proof. Maybe I have been lucky and the truth is I never abused it. The way I did these tests I would be at 1500 rpm steady drop the clutch and then squeze the throttle as the rpm goes up to wide open. The amazing part is I have to shift close to around fifty mph which takes a full second and I still get these times eventhough I do not and would never power shift the boxer...in other words the second I am shifting (clutch in and out)I am off the throttle. My Boxer shifts great and as Dick from Amerispec told me when he drove my car when I first got it ,he said this is the easiest shifting Boxer he ever drove. I can roll off on idle without touching the throttle by letting the clutch up fairly quick and after is engaged if I open the throttle a lot and suddenly around 2000-2500rpm I can light them up. I never drove another Boxer or a testarossa I could do this with so I was curious how are the other bb owners experience in this regard,can you spin tires in 1 gear just by hitting the throttle at 2500 rpm? I never abuse my car and I only did this to establish some performance figure to explain the fact she seems to run too strong for what she suppose to have in hp and torque. Another very interesting part is I am getting around 22mpg if I did a trip on open road going steady at the speed limit of 75 for a while...no body wants to believe that about this car. Thank you all for your nice comments about the colour...seventeen years plus and i still love it! For ever live the Boxer! Mario
mario, please be careful with the 2500 rpm 1st gear wheel spin...a certain trip to the mechanic!! mine would light the tires under those circumstances but it also tore up my main shaft!! if dick fritz says your car is the best shifting boxer he has driven, you can take that to the bank!! not only was an amerispec conversion the best in the business, dick is also one of the most knowledgable boxer guys in the country. pcb
The key fgure here guys is the 1 second to shift at 55. A lot of newer supposedly faster cars have 1st gear to take them up to 60 or use flappy paddles, so ona in traffic like for like one will see a boxer is exceptionaly quick. I remember years ago when CAR magazine in the UK would publish 40-70mph 3rd or 4th gear acceleration times and the boxer was the fastes car they had listed hands down, I am talking early 90's here.
Yep. They didn't gear them to be dragsters. 1st is only supposed to get you moving; it's been optimized for going up and down from 2 to 5 The dogleg shift pattern reinforces this design decision.
The main shaft? Do you mean the shaft that goes from the transfer case back into the gearbox? Is that shaft another failure prone part? I wouldn't think pushing down on the accelerator pedal could damage anything. I can see dumping the clutch can release an overabundance of stored energy breaking things. Did it do any other damage? it would be nice if the shaft breaking was a "fuse" failure mode. Than it might be part of the design.
input shat is another term i heard it called. it sheared! and i lost two years of my boxer enjoyment due to the downtime at the shop...but i promise that is a story i choose not to revisit!!!
99.9% of my driving is first third fifth with the occasional blast to 150 on empty back roads and playing in tight mountain corners between 2nd and third is the most fun with this car even more recently as I keep tweaking my shock settings, spring rates and alignment. There is no doubt the Boxer is for open road fun not a drag racer,but the power in this car seems to get better the more I drive it and it is surprising fast for the specs they advertise about it. I have to say I am driving more than ever this year and I am having a great time with it. With a loud exhaust ,tighter suspension set up at the rear than stock and the right alignment is like driving a pure race car on the street. My conversion was not done by dick fritz but I agree he is a real expert and the most knowledgeable fellow out there on these cars. Mario
Sean I like 400 pound per inch (two hundred pound springs)per corner at the rear with fresh original konis adjusted 3.5 half turns from full closed(full hard)per shock. At the front I run 264 pounds per inch springs with the shocks at stock setting That spring shock combo creates a much more nimble balance where the car comes out of corners much faster than stock with a lot less body roll and much more planted feel at high speeds. Steering lock needed on the same turns is a lot less and the car is a lot more responsive than stock. The ride height is adjusted with out a spare in at both front and rear by adding sleeves on the original shocks for height adjustment where the rear lower a arms with the car fully loaded are perfectly parallel to the ground and the front is at 9mm difference inside pivot point on lower a arm higher than outside as per the BB work manual when fully loaded with two passengers and fuel. This makes the car a lot lower than stock which is unknown to me why the stock springs are made like this since even fully loaded it used to be too tall mostly at the rear for the a arms to follow their designed camper gain when needed. The springs are Hypercoils same size as originals in diameter and ten inch long and they have a lot of preload left in them at full droop at that length. Hyper coils are the best cold wound springs that are a little expensive but they never settled a mm since installed many years ago. I have them in 150,200,264,300,and 400 pounds per inch rates. The alignment is at zero toe at the front and 3mm total at the rear Caster at three degrees only. Front camper negative at one degree and rear at one and a quarter negative. Poly bushings on steering gear and a arms complete the set up. Please note that replacement of original bushings create some loss in spring rate as they operate in such a manner that they effect the total spring action of the suspension. When corner weighting the car by lowering the right rear corner only almost 8mm the car gives exact 50% measurement cross weights full of fuel. left front695 right front 692 left rear 1057 right rear1045 Mario
Great segment you've started. This might be cause for a new thread - Dyno testing the 512 BBi: This is done WOT (of course), are there any sentiments on doing this with the car? Mainly as it pertains to driveline issues.
I did mine a couple of years ago, ill look for the dynojet papers I have on it. It was roughly 290HP at the wheels. Using a 15% loss for the drivetrain gives me 333HP flywheel. Im not sure what percentage loss I should factor in. I was happy with the numbers considering it had the original injectors and wasnt tuned in any way.
I have the original injectors in a box and I have the newer copper ones ..... Besides tuning both banks to be very even on a home made mercury vacuum gauges both at rpm and idle with the air by pass both closed and idle smooth at 900rpm the biggest gain has been allowing the advance coming in all the way by 2000rpm. Is that ok or should it be slow and gradual all the way to full advance at 5000rpm? I should be taking the engine out for a major by the end of the summer. I should put it on a dyno then. Hey Paul you want to come to Idaho and do a major on my car?
There's a distrib curve in the owners handbook. The WSM doesn't show the correct curve for the injected BB.
On mid engine cars due to cv joints loss and the power transfer set up I think around 17 percent loss is expected, a direct drive type such as a Mustang you'd expect 15 percent with a slush box auto 20 percent loss. At 17 percent that would put you at 340 hp you mentioned you have a sport exhaust on your car I would expect you have more power with proper tuning.
