Delco Alternator for 89 348

I have been reading a lot of threads but I cannot find the Delco part number for the 105 amp alternator.

There was a partsamerica part number, but their web seems to be down. I found a replacement number of 10479969 but Rock Auto does not recognize this part.They list a number of 105 amp alternators but I doubt that they are all interchangeable.

I am trying to decide if I should get a new one or rebuild. Even on ebay the seller of HD repair kits for the CS130 series wants to know more info.

As I have limited access to a car lift I want to be certain that things are done right.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Greg

 

Greg - Delco's are everywhere in GM stuff so ANY auto electrician should be able to rebuild it properly. Having said that, in a 348 they all suffer from heat related problems - that's why Ferrari switched to the ND. Ultimately, you will need to get it rebuilt again OR have a heat shield made up to protect it a little.

 

rebuild it for $75. Just as good as a new one. That's an easy and cheap fix, and you'll probably never have a worry with it again. Wrap a little insulation adhesive around it and you're good to go.

 

While you are having it rebuilt get the cooling holes, on the alternator housing, ported.

 

I don't have the part number, but give NAPA a call. I went to buy a replacement and they found the same model - it was spec'd for a 1992 six cylinder Dodge. You will need the pulley wheel from your original, and apparently your original bearings as the OEM Ferrari spec bearings have a higher speed rating to handle the higher RPMs.

A much more cost effective route is to have it rebuilt with a heavy duty rectifier and regulator.

Note that Elreg is in Canada, so you should be able to get the parts quickly.

The Delco units do have a heat shield on the 348. The problems are a) one of the mounting points for the heat shield shares a mounting point for the alternator and it deforms the shield when bolting the alternator in place (causing the heat shield to press against the alternator, trapping heat) and b) it is a poorer design than the ND heat shield, which has a scoop to force air flow around the alternator.

I had my alternator crap out three times - I have since removed the heat shield and no further problems with heat soaking.

 

Hey Greg

This is an old post of mine listing all the stuff you'll need to rebuild your delco unit. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=135611780&postcount=10

Let us know what you ended up doing would you?

 

You can have your old one rebuilt for around $100 (mine cost $85 to do), or get one for a 1992 Dodge Monaco 6 cylinder. The one I got for the Monaco needed the pulley from the Ferrari model, but otheriwse was a simple bolt in replacement. The casing was slightly different and offered much better cooling to the alternator internals. It cost me $135 including a core charge at Discount Auto Parts. I can get a the $35 core charge back by giving them the old Ferrari one. I had the Ferrari unit bench tested and it tested fine, but the surging of the dash lights went away when I installed the rebuilt Monaco unit. The Dodge unit is onlyrated for 96 amps, but I did not have any heavy aftermarket electrical items that would need the higher rating of the factory unit.
Edit: make sure you release the side bolt that holds the alternator belt tensioner in place prior to trying to loosen the belt itself (otherwise you will likely crack the tensioner bracket which can be welded if this happens). It is a bolt that goes through the tensioner center (17mm?) I think and you have to get the wrench up by the firewall to loosen it. The bolt on the bottom of the tensioner that is easy to get to (13mm I think) turns the opposite of what you would think counterclockwise to tighten, clockwise to loosen it. And when you go to put the alternator belt back on, put it over the alternator end first, then the crank end, then slip it over the tensioner. You will need the tensioner to be fairly loose to make this go easily.

BT

 

I appreciate all the advice.

I have seen the very well written ( and photographed ) description by Ernie on removal and repair.

As my alternator went without the signs as described i.e. charge light never came on at high revs, so I am not certain what went in it. If there is oil in it and I need to replace brushes etc, it could be a larger job.

I am trying to "borrow" a garage with a lift. If I am successful, it would be for a R&R thus I wanted a new one. Then I could repair the old one when time permitted. If I can use the garage, I would not be able to leave the vehicle while the alternator was being rebuilt - it would be a weekend event.

If I cannot use the garage, I will get my local garage to have it rebuilt but now I can specify the HD parts.

Hopefully I will have an answer on the garage use by Thursday.

Will post update.

Greg

 

If it has to be a straight swap due to garage/time constraints, why not see if 348SStb still has his for sale?

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=286

 

Enlighten me please

Hey guys...I've always heared the stories of people having to modify electronics due to the weak Delco alternator. Swapping out dash lights for LED technology to reduce load, etc... Why not consider this failure as an opportunity to upgrade to the Nippondenso? Is it more invloved than a simple transplant?

 

Much more involved (and 'spensive) to switch to the ND alternator. You need a different wiring harness for the ND and the mounts are different also I believe. Just go buy a rebuilt or new alternator for a 1992 Dodge Monaco V-6 at your local auto parts store. Swap it in place of your current one, and take your time rebuilding the original. Just make sure you loosen that side bolt on the tensioner before you try to loosen the belt tension or "Snap" you will bust the tensioner bracket. Also, you need to remove the shift cable bracket to get the long bolt out for the alternator removal.

BT

 

Harness and mounts huh....screw that

Another Q

Can you rewind the Delco to make it stronger? i.e. does more wraps = more output or does that require a differant regulator or something?

Electicity is not my bag. Its PFM to me. My car is a SS with the Nippondenso so these questions are more...uhhh...acedemic

 

I think the windings remain the same, you just use a different regulator and the other small part (I forget what they call it). when I had my alternator rebuilt they also soldered some of the connections that you can see through the slots on the side of the alternator. They said the factory (or a previous rebuild) had made the connections with a slip on type electrical piece which would not handle the current very well. My alternator rebuilder locally says he always uses heavy duty parts on the rebuilds. I think the location of the alternator is directly under a common oil leak location (The cam cover seal). Anyway, I'm no expert on the electrical stuff either, it has just been my experience that having a rebuilt 1992 Dodge Monaco V6 alternator to swap out works well.

BT

 

The ND alternator runs close to $2,200:
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=203282

Ricambi used to have a kit including a new mounting bracket, belt and wiring harness but I don't see it on their site presently.

The Delco can be made stronger with a heavy duty rectifier and regulator; as those parts run about $20 and then roughly $80 for a professional rebuild, upgrading to the ND alternator just doesn't make sense. Keep in mind the ND alternators on the later 348's and 355's have also been known to fry from time to time, but not nearly as frequently as the OEM Delco.

 

And indeed that Nip alternator is just chillin' on the shelf. It's next to a Diablo rear manifold that Remy chewed on when he was a puppy. Can you say "bad dog"?


That kit, use to look like this. It was moons ago that we had one...

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=261296

 

That kit was the most amazing deal when you had them in stock. Through a dealer, if they are even still available, is/was about four times what your price was.

 

Any auto electric shop can rebuild these for $75. I had o do it annually for years. I finally broke down and bought the Nipondenso factory update. Well worth the money, as well as the time and effort.

 

My borrowed garage fell through so I brought the car to my local mechanic - he does oil changes on a few Ferraris and at least one Maser.

Gave him all the info the experts here have so generously posted and the car was ready the same day with a rebuild using HD internals- bearings, brushes, rectifier and regulator ). Apparently, it now generates up to 120 A - not sure that this is possible i.e. is it the regulator and rectifier that set this or the windings?????

While not as cheap as if done myself due to the usual garage labour rates it was significantly cheaper than the Ford dealer hose my company for last month when my company car also blew an alternator.

Thanks for all the help - it is good to have my mistress running again.

Greg

 

Glad to hear it's fixed.

 

Greg, glad to hear you got it fixed. Out of curiosity, how much $ did it run you to rebuild?

 

You home mechanics will howl - TOO MUCH. Not that you are not right but under the circumstances of a immediate rebuild etc, the total was just under $500 CDN, this included about $240 for the rebuild ( parts and Labour ) , R&R the alternator, the typical $50 to check the rest of the electrics and battery ( Every garage does this, I do not like it though but I guess it is part of ensuring that they can warranty the alternator for one year ).

Naturally the provincial and Federal Government wanted there cut of my cash.

It is great to have her alive again. The trip to the mechanic when I knew I was only on battery power and reasonably certain that I would make it was the least fun I have ever had in her.


Greg

 

Entirely possible, there was a thread here a couple years ago, where someone found a way to upgrade the Delco to put out between 130 and 140amps IIRC.