CV Boot replacement

Nice post!

 

Great post. Would this work for a 355 and a 348?

 

Which Ferrari model did you work on?
Thanks

 

Outstanding Mark!!!

You wouldn't happen to have the part numbers handy would you?

 

Fantastic contribution! throw in pics and part numbers and you'll be a hero This is one more thing I need to do while the engine is out....

 

BRILLIANT! Thanks for the info!

 

Does this procedure affect rear wheel alignment?

 

Thanks!

 

Nope.

At least not on my 348 it doesn't

 

Fantastic Mark!! Thanks for sharing!

Thats why you gotta LOVE the Brotherhood!!

 

While this thread was helpful to a great degree - Nobody has pointed out that the ball cup of the Porsche part is approximately 5/16" thicker than the Ferrari part and as such the Ferrari bolts are not long enough to sufficiently engage the hub on the transaxle sufficiently to keep from stripping out the first row of threads on the transaxle hub. My digital camera is in for repair or I would have taken a photo. One should not under estimate the acrobatics it takes to get the hub past the exhaust/txle housing and the frame. It took a good 15 minutes. What should have been mentioned to make the job simplier is the aero tray needs to be loostened and the rear fender well needs to be removed.

Bottom line is the Porsche part will work but I need to find these very unique bolts 5/16" longer - not an easy task

 

I don't get it. The rubber Porsche boot is stripping the steel Ferrari bolt threads? I'm having trouble visualizing this. Can you elaborate?

 

I think that he is saying that the rubber boot is so much thicker than the original that there is not much of the bolt threads making it into the female threads therefore putting alot of pressure on them. Now that is a thick boot.

 

I bought the Ferrari boot kits, but the steel outer race of the Porsche CV joint is thicker (ie deeper). When I pushed the Ferrari bolt through only one or two threads show through the other side thus they grabbed one thread on the flange and tore it out.
The rotating parts of the CV appear to be the same and the outer race is just thicker
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Ok, I see. What had confused me is that you were calling them rubber boots instead of CV joints.

 

OK! That I can see! Thanks. So with longer bolts the Porsche cv joint would work?! Cool. I wonder if the Porsche wheel hub bearing would work, too? Easier to get the Porsche replacement parts (might even be cheaper)...

 

I found some metric hex head cap screws with the exact spec for strength as the factory OEM with the correct shoulder protrusion from the CV to transfer the shear load to the transaxle flange but the threads were 5/8" too long. It cost almost $200 to buy the bolts (I also bought the tap and the die or this thread - thank god!) including the $20 bucks I paid the local machine shop to shorten the bolts. A word to the wise - if you are going to do this you should chase the threads in the flange with a tap for this thread spec because the threads get galled removing the factory bolts. You should also chase the threads on the new bolts though a die and leave the cutting oil on both the flange threads and the bolt threads so you are sure to have and easy installation with a predictable torque. The machine shop also lightly chamfered the little two hole clamp to accomodate for the fact that the hex cap screws have a radius from the cap to the shank. Picture is of shortened thread hex screw next to factory. After installation torqued initially to 50 then to 70 foot pounds, I treated the exposed threads at the back of the transaxle flange with high temp locktight.
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Just in case any cares - the bolt spec I used was M10 x 125 x 80 SOC C/S Alloy
their part number 100F800KCSZ

 

Nice work!




*but which company owns that part number?!

 

I've got a torn inner CV boot on my 355.

Approximately how long of a job are we talking about to replace it?

Is it something that the mechanically challeneged can accompolish themselves?

Thanks.

Bobby

 

I have a lift and with two people working, one a good wrench (and its not me) plan on 4 hours per side not counting the errand to the bolt store and the machine shop if you decide to change the inner CVs too. The dealer gets paid 4 hours per side under warranty reimbursement. - Not a fun job but I had to do it myself because I just discovered it 5 days before I'm going to Monterrey

 

Bobby -

It's just a big mess. Call one of your local shops (Competizione might be the closest to you) and let them handle it. For mechanically challenged, I'd say it's money-well-spent.