Problem Starting Carbed 308 | FerrariChat

Problem Starting Carbed 308

Discussion in '308/328' started by FasterIsBetter, Aug 12, 2009.

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  1. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,855
    NoNJ/Jupiter FL
    Full Name:
    Steve W.
    I'm having problems getting my '78 308 GTS started. For some reason, she just won't kick over, whether cold or hot, without a number of frustrating tries. Did a major service on it in 2007, and installed the Electromotive direct coil ignition system from Nick's Forza. Here's what I've tried:

    Full choke, let fuel pump run a few seconds, hit gas pedal once or twice, crank it, no start.
    Half choke, same, no start.
    No choke, same, no start.
    No choke, slowly depress the gas pedal as I crank it, no start.
    All above combinations with varying degrees of pressing on the gas pedal while cranking it.

    Eventually, it will kick over, usually when I pump the gas pedal a couple of times while cranking and then hold it about 1/3 on, with no choke. Once the car starts it runs absolutely smoothly, great power, runs like a top.

    So, am I doing something wrong in how I'm starting the carbed car? Is there a problem with the carbs that needs adjusting or fixing? Some other problem? I could understand if the car ran rough after starting, I'd look at it as a timing issue or problem with the ignition, pickup, something like that. But once it does start, it runs beautifully.

    Any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

    Regards,
    Steve
     
  2. greg328

    greg328 F1 Rookie

    Nov 17, 2003
    4,209
    Austin, TX USA
    Full Name:
    Greg
    Maybe your starter is shot?
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,878
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Try less choke -- in fact, first try no choke (especially if you are using daily), just a couple/few 1/2 squirts and once it initially fires, squirt as required to keep it running, and hold it up a little as you are already doing. Needing to hold the throttle open while cranking hints of needing to "clear fuel out".
     
  4. Doug

    Doug Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2003
    1,473
    Louisville KY
    Full Name:
    Doug
    I have a '77 with Electromotive and I have the choke completely disconnected. I hardly prime the car at all(2 seconds), just a small blip of the throttle once I turn the key and it fires right up. Maybe your fuel pump is getting weak?
     
  5. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
    1,606
    Along the Verde , AZ
    Full Name:
    Doug
    Fuel pump issues would show up as misfire at higher RPM/full throttle on a carbed car. '

    Generally hard starting is either:

    Too much fuel,
    Too little fuel (not a pump issue) from bad accelerator pumps and/or too lean idle jets/setting
    Fouled plugs, usually from plugs too cold
    Incorrect ignition timing,
    Incorrect valve timing
    Poor compression

    In most likely order of what to look for

    Hard starting is a symptom of a weak fuel pump on an injected car where the pump is forcing gas into the manifold, rather than manifold air flow sucking fuel out of an already full carb.

    Doug
     
  6. cavallo_nero

    cavallo_nero Formula 3

    Nov 3, 2003
    1,707
    colorado
    Full Name:
    Giovanni Pasquale
    I agree with Steve, no choke at all. let the fuel pump run for about 10 seconds. blip the pedal once or twice to shoot some accel pump fuel in. then crank er over, give it no gas or very little.
    also, make your choke always returns to the off position on all 8 circuits when not in use. sometimes they stick in the on position.
     
  7. mike308gts

    mike308gts Karting

    Aug 28, 2006
    97
    Washington NJ
    Full Name:
    Michael
    On my 79 308 I let the fuel pump run for a few seconds, then hit the gas to the floor once and she fires right up. No choke at all.
    I might need to play with the gas once she starts but it will usually settle right in.
    Mike
     
  8. RMDC

    RMDC Formula 3

    May 15, 2005
    1,005
    Boston, North Shore
    Hello Steve - Met you when you delivered the prop to Birdman - Had a similar experience with my 308. One day went for a ride and came home - Everything ran as normal. A week later the car would not start. After checking for spark, we disconnected the fuel line where it connects to the carbs - no fuel. After 80,000 miles the original BCD Corona pump just quit with no warning signs. They are no longer available - believe me I checked, including having my cousin in Rivoli check with the BCD factory in that town. Replaced it with a Facet pump - direct replacement.
     
  9. Jerry Fisher

    Jerry Fisher Karting

    Nov 1, 2003
    75
    when my car was delivered to me in 1981, the salesman said "I will teach you the most imprtant lesson you will ever learn for owning a carbed Ferrari"-----------

    Never use the choke, never use the choke, never use the choke.
     
  10. Steve King

    Steve King F1 Rookie

    Feb 15, 2001
    4,367
    NY
    I use a rather simple proceedure. Turn the key and wait until the seat belt light in the dash goes out. You should also hear the fuel pump running. Now push the gas peddle to the floor once then turn the key and pump the peddle about a quarter of the way down and the car will fire. Feather the gas peddle until the engine smooths out around 1000 rpm. On a warm morning it usually will idle fairly quickly , maybe 2-3 minutes. In the winter it takes a little longer so you need to feather it more. That's the way I do it . Good luck and everyone is right , don't use the choke.
     
  11. RMDC

    RMDC Formula 3

    May 15, 2005
    1,005
    Boston, North Shore
    After seeing Steve King's comment - I could still hear the pump running - the electric motor did not fail, the shaft/vanes, the mechanical part of the pump failed.
     
  12. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,855
    NoNJ/Jupiter FL
    Full Name:
    Steve W.
    Thanks Gang!! I love this place! I will give what seems to be the "universal" starting procedure a try. But first, I think I'm going to pull a couple of the plugs and check to be sure I haven't fouled them. I suspect that I've been flooding the engine with too much pedal action. But worth checking the plugs. I know that the timing is good and that the valve timing is spot on. Once it starts, it runs perfectly, nice and smooth, plenty of power, idles as smooth as silk and accelerates strongly and smoothly.

    Definitely not the starter. It cranks over very well. I installed the Gustafson Hi-Torq starter when we did the engine-out major two years ago, and it turns the motor over strong and fast.

    Might be worth looking at the pump anyway and at worst having a spare. Can you provide the part number for the Facet for the carbed 308? Much appreciated.
     
  13. greyboxer

    greyboxer F1 World Champ

    Dec 8, 2004
    12,675
    South East
    Full Name:
    Jimmie
    Think about it : your car has an ignition system which might improve the spark and so facilitate starting but thats the only change - other than that it is standard so as suggested above start with the original starting procedure - no choke etc - and probably not even worth pulling the plugs from the sound of it let alone meddling with anything else til the simplest solution is assessed ie changing your start procedure
     
  14. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Dec 6, 2002
    79,386
    Houston, Texas
    Full Name:
    Bubba
    Here's what the manual says:

    (And I agree leave the choke off unless you scraped ICE off the car....)

    Turn on ignition key.

    WAIT 45-60 SECONDS for carbs to fill...(This is real important, you can actually hear some fuel pumps change tone as the system fills)

    THEN proceed. Pump pedal 2 - 3 times ONLY full travel. Back off.

    As the starter is energized, push 1/3 and be ready to increase pedal pressure as engine fires.

    Take it to 1200- 2500RPM as engine warms (at this point you should have eyes glued to oil pressure gauge, I have to tap on mine to wake it up..)
    Idle should smooth out as all plugs join into contribution.

    All the pumping and gyrations in the world are doing very little until the carb bowls fill up and are ready to go.
    Don't rush it it takes a while.....

    HTH
     
    Andreas Engesvik likes this.
  15. brook308

    brook308 Formula Junior

    Oct 19, 2007
    346
    SS Coast, Australia
    Full Name:
    George
    Just to add a twist to this thread,

    My GT4 starts from cold every time using the agreed proceedure.

    Once warm if I stop the engine for a couple of minutes it will start again like a fuel injected car with a slight throttle opening.

    If the car engine is hot and I've left it for half an hour it's a bugger to start again, takes a lot of cranking an then finally stumbles to life. The latest proceedure I have tried is foot flat to the floor and leave it there, as if the engine is flooded but it still takes ages to start. When I had the original bosch starter I would come close to a dead battery trying to start the car when hot.The new gear reduction starter helps but it still takes a while.

    I guess this is due to the fuel in the carbs evaporating or flooding the engine.

    Any suggestions for how to start a carbed 308 after it's been sitting hot for a while?

    Cheers

    George
     
  16. bobs308

    bobs308 Karting

    Dec 4, 2007
    111
    Lubbock, TX
    Full Name:
    Randy Edwards
    This is what works on my 78 GTS with rebuilt engine (Jan 06-4500 miles ago) and single distributor electronic ignition. My choke is disconnected. Cold starts, sitting for a day or more-run pump for 30 seconds-pump pedal 5 times, half way up on final pump. Fires before I can let go of the key. If it has been a day or less, but time to cool down-30 seconds and 3 pedal pumps. When car is hot, it takes several seconds of cranking no matter what I do and I think I have tried every combination. So my question is the same: Any suggestions for how to start a carbed 308 after it's been sitting hot for a while? Randy
     
  17. RMDC

    RMDC Formula 3

    May 15, 2005
    1,005
    Boston, North Shore
    Might be worth looking at the pump anyway and at worst having a spare. Can you provide the part number for the Facet for the carbed 308? Much appreciated.[/QUOTE]

    Sent you a PM
     
  18. MS250

    MS250 Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Dec 10, 2003
    26,581
    Full Name:
    Avvocato

    George, my carb 76 is just as simple when cold. Turn the key to the on position like its cold into the 2 position and let the feul pump on. Wait 30 seconds, as you turn to crank, i very lightly lean on the gas pedal to open it up, it always catches for me, and then do the blip of gas and it settle to idle...of course a little small puff of smoke is common out the back when you do the blip of rpm up. Let me know if this helps you at all. Remember, no gas, or pumping when hot
     
  19. brook308

    brook308 Formula Junior

    Oct 19, 2007
    346
    SS Coast, Australia
    Full Name:
    George
    #19 brook308, Aug 16, 2009
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2009
    I'll give this a try Big Red and report back.

    Cheers

    George
     
  20. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,855
    NoNJ/Jupiter FL
    Full Name:
    Steve W.
    Okay gang, I tried the "starting procedure" recommended, and still having a bear of a time getting it to start. I know the fuel pump is running, as I can hear it, and when I've been cranking the car, I smell a lot of fuel. Plus, once it starts it runs fine.

    I'm going to pull the air filter housing off and check the carbs. Could be a stuck float or some other problem causing the carbs to overflow maybe? Any other carb related problems I should be looking for?
     
  21. Doug

    Doug Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2003
    1,473
    Louisville KY
    Full Name:
    Doug
    Have you pulled some plugs to see if they are fouled?
     
  22. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,855
    NoNJ/Jupiter FL
    Full Name:
    Steve W.
    Not yet. I expect to be doing that as part of the carb inspection as well.
     
  23. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,855
    NoNJ/Jupiter FL
    Full Name:
    Steve W.
    Okay, my buddy Paul and I started diagnosing the 308 tonight. We didn't get too far. But it looks like the spark plugs are fouled. We tried to check the spark with an inductive timing light and pulling a plug and grounding it, and either way we were not getting spark on either bank. That helps to explain the non-starting condition.

    So, I'm going to get a new set of plugs and change them all out. Also, will pull the wheel well and check the timing ring and pickup for the Electromotive, and then try to test the pickup to be sure it is sending a proper signal to the control unit. Also going to check the grounds for the system as well (seems things electrical always seem to end up being grounding issues).

    So, I'm running NGK BP6ES plugs. Should I consider going to BP5ES if the 6s are fouling? The 6s ran fine for a long time, so inclined to stay with them. Just wonder what others think. And any thoughts on potential sources for the non-spark problem, please post up.
     
  24. Doug

    Doug Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2003
    1,473
    Louisville KY
    Full Name:
    Doug
    I purchased my car this winter with a freshly installed Electromotive unit. When I received the car, it started only on occasion. Fuel pump was fine, started was fine. I ended up sending the unit back to Electromotive to bench test the unit. The found a bad crystal or element in it. The unit was under 1 year old so was warrantied. It may be worth sending the unit back for a bench test.
     
  25. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,855
    NoNJ/Jupiter FL
    Full Name:
    Steve W.
    Well, the plot thickens -- It looks like it is not the carbs after all. It appears to be the XDi box or the crank sensor pickup that is defective. A year ago, the timing ring worked loose and one of the set screws hit the pickup and slightly damaged it. The primary suspicion is that some moisture may have gotten into the pickup and is interfering with the signal. It worked fine after the damage, but now, although the XDi unit is "seeing" the presence of the sensor, no signal is being detected. Thus, we suspect the sensor may be bad.

    But I also had an interesting conversation with Electromotive. I called to discuss the situation, and two different people there, including the owner, Fred, suggested that is could be electrical interference due to bad grounding. He suggested running a separate ground wire (substantial!) from the negative post of the battery directly back to the engine, and disconnecting the chassis grounding strap from the engine to chassis. He also suggested running the postive power lead that powers the main fuse block directly from the positve post of the battery, rather than from the post on the starter motor. This, he suggested, would eliminate stray electrical noise that could be interfering with the XDi box reading the sensor signal, which is a DC sine wave.

    Anyway, they are sending me a new sensor unit, which I will install and see if that eliminates the problem. If so, then probably a bad sensor. But I'm going to consider doing something with the grounding anyway, as my experience has always been that 90% of all electrical problems can be traced to a bad ground.

    Will report back!!
     

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