Got a Gauge Problem- Need Suggestions

Ok, got my car back to "driveable" after lots of months (10). Changed out all the plactic fuel lines and amagingly not a single leak-- NOT ONE. Thanx Verrel !!! You are an "Ace."

Bulk fuel lines are next. Changed one out already; it was EASY and fit perfectly!!!! Thanx for the hose kits DaveH!!! So far I'd have to say they'd be a bargain at twice the price and I am a cheap-a$$ed SOB.


BUT, alas, the water temp gauge DOES NOT work It worked the last time I drive the car about 10 months ago.

I MUST MOVE my car about 150 miles to my new house in a few days and CANNOT look for the problem until then. No time. I am in the process of packing and moving as I write this and headed to Baku shortly on business. Wifey is pissed.

I checked and the water is circulating so the system IS working. I'll pull the instrument cluster and see if there is a loose connector when I get to my new place.

QUESTIONS:

1) CAN I DRIVE the car using the OIL TEMP gauge as an engine temp/heat indicator?

2) IF SO, what OIL TEMP is TOO HIGH to aviod overheating? The owner's manual says "266 degrees and pull-over," BUT I am running Mobil 1, 0-40 Synthetic at Dr Haas' suggestion. WILL that make a difference and if so what would be the NEW DANGER ZONE temp to avoid?

I will not drive it again UNTIL I find the problem after this move (new thread for suggested trouble-shooting techniques upcoming in a 308/328/Mondi sub-forum near you).

Thanx in Advance,

mwr

 

Let the engine sit a bit so the oil drains away from the filter as much as its going to...

Remove the filter and remove the wire from the temp sending unit in the valley. Turn the ign. sw. to "on" and ground the wire while watching the gauge through the back window. Clean the connections on the sender and reattach. Change out the 10mm hose going to the coolant tank (caveat to this is a warning that the nipple might be a bit ugly...only do this if you have a little time to spend getting it cleaned up) while you are there so it doesn't blow out in route to the new home.

If the gauge moves with the wire grounded then the stat could be stuck open and it will take a good long time before you see an indicated temp on the gauge. After sitting so long, get it warm again and crack open the bleeder on the stat housing once a little pressure has built up. Allow it to idle again for another 5 mins and do the same at the radiator. With all of those old hoses, there is bound to be some air in the system.

 

Under the dash to the top right of the steering column are the connectors for the gauges. Disconnect and clean and reconnect after cleaning. That started up my inoperable temp gauge. Also, knock the glass a couple of times after your car is warm, it may just be stuck.

 

In addition to what Dave stated I second this approach as it is free as well. I had high readings from my H2O gauge and after stupidly replacing the expansion cap, thermostat, 2 pole switch, and temp sending unit, bleeding the system without resolution I decided to clean the connections to the gauge. That solved the problem.

 

Thanx Guys, I'll give your suggestions a shot.


Just for my own edification, COULD the OIL TEMP be used as an overheating indicator OR is it too slow to react to an overheating situation to be of use (damage already done)?


mwr

 

Not to worry. Oil Temp warms after water so isn't much good in your case. If your water indeed overheated steam would pop open the water fill cap do to pressure. You'd hear and see that (steam escaping) before anything got to point of damage. Again, not to worry.

 

You have a stronger stomach than I do.

After 10 months the gauge itself could be stuck, warm her up and tap it a few times.
Ground the wire at the sender and see if the gauge moves.
The sender itself could have gone bad of course, as well.

After the work you've done, I would be hesitant to drive the car over a distance as indicated without a coolant temp gauge.

 

I had an owner pop a hose a few years back (he was the catalyst for our coolant hose devolvement). After even the steam boiled off and the system went bone dry...the coolant temp gauge quick working (figure that!). The oil temp gauge remained in a 'reasonable range' for the next 10-12 miles to town. Incredibly after the molten plug extenders were chiseled out of the plug valleys, brick hard plug wires were replaced and new hoses installed.... quicker than ever with no smoke, luck is good.

Not a suggested method in my book.

 

Greatly appreciate the additonal feed back (Dave & Jack). !!!!!!!!


I'll take it under (very) serious advisement.