Mondial 3.2 QV cab rear bonnet electric release

The electric trunk release on my 3.2 Mondial QV doesn't work. Tonight I took the solenoid out of the trunk and tested it with a battery. The solenoid works fine. (quite a relief after I read that the new ones are $1200). But the electrical side of the system is where the problem is. I press the bonnet releases for the hood and engine and they both work fine. I don't hear some sort of relay sound coming out the the rear bonnet switch behind the dash like I do with the other two buttons. Are there relays behind the dash? I don't see an obvious relay in the fusebox for bonnets. How do I try to fix this? How do I get to the rear bonnet button? Any suggestions. Jay

 

Do you have an owners manual? It points to where the relays are. A recent thread on the same topic (although a t) should help out as well, including a warning or two.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=255786

 

Thanks. That's where I found out that the solenoid replacement is $1200, but again, my solenoid is fine. I don't have a mechanical issue. I have an electrical one and am not sure what to do next.

 

There is no separate relay -- there appears to be some sort of relay function built into the switch itself (unfortunately, the scan of the Mondial 3.2 wiring diagram book that I have is not very good so the switch internals aren't that clear). From your report of the symptom I'd say the most likely curprit is the switch itself:

1. The switches for the front bonnet and the rear bonnet share the same +12V power source and fuse -- so since the front switch works that's a good sign that +12V power is reaching the rear bonnet switch too,

2. The wiring going to the engine bonnet solenoid and the rear bonnet solenoid pass thru the same C1 connectors -- always possible that a single connection is bad, but the other connection being OK at least confirms that the connector is probably still plugged in, and

3. all three bonnet switch appear to have the exact same internal structure so your report of "no sound" for the rear bonnet switch compared to the others is a bad sign for the rear bonnet switch.

The three switches have different part numbers (and you won't like their price either ), but I think that is only because the silkscreen markings are different. As I mentioned above, they appear to have identical internal function (and connections) so if you could try one of the other switches (front bonnet or engine bonnet) in place of the rear bonnet switch that would be my suggestion as the best diagnostic next step. Good hunting!

 

Thanks Steve. What do I have to do to get to the switch? Do I have to disassemble the dash?

 

Unfortunately, I can't help you with this part -- perhaps a fellow Mondial Owner will be able to help, or let you know if a thread on the subject already exists.

 

Jay, to remove the switches you need to pull the tach first. To do that, remove its bezel first by gently pulling at it with your fingernails from inside the rim. The rest is pretty obvious.

It's been several years so I don't remember every step but you'll find that it isn't too difficult.

 

Thanks Wade. I'll give it a shot and try to post some photos of the process. Are there any screws hold on the trunk bonnet release button or a clip of some sort?

 

Just so happens that I was able to dig out my old switch from about 14 years and 3 moves ago.

As you can see, there are two clips on this side and the other as well. Just work one side at a time, sort of rocking it out.

Be VERY careful with disconnecting the electrical connectors otherwise the circuit board will crack.
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Curiosity got the best of me so I took it apart. Maybe these pictures will come in handy for others in the future.

Even though this is a switch for the engine cover, the internals should be similar to the others.

BTW, this switch is from a U.S. spec 1982 Mondial 8.
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Well, look at that, there is a solenoid inside.
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Yes - the combination $300 relay and switch

Seriously, my guess is that their function is to apply +12V power to the solenoid actuators for a fixed time period -- regardless of how quickly or slowly you press/hold the switch button.

Do individual wires connect to the back of each switch, or is there some sort of motherboard that all of the switches plug into? (that's what the symbology on the schematic seems to suggest).

 

Thanks Steve. Thanks Wade. I'm pretty good at taking things apart, I just hope I can get it back together. I suspected there was a relay in there. Any idea who might sell these switches? $300 still sounds about $900 better than replacing the little actuator solenoid in the trunk! I'm first going to see if I can get the OEM rear bonnet switch/solenoid part going again.

 

You're welcome and yes, please post some pics, especially one that'll answer Steve's question below. I'm thinking wires but am not sure.

 

The rear bonnet switch is bad. I confirmed this by putting the front bonnet switch in its place and it's (the rear bonnet) now working. I also switched the plastic front face so that the front switch now says rear and vice versa. Interesting, the front bonnet switch has 4 contacts and the rear switch has 5. Here are pics of the two switches, numbers and contacts. I also tried to use the window lock switch since it also has 5 contacts, but it's really a push-on/push-off switch and I thought that over time it would burn out the solenoid. I don't particularly use the window lock switch. I also included some pics of the wiring connectors back there. It was fairly easy to remove the switches once the 4 screws holding the tach were removed and the tach pulled forward. I only had to disconnect the yellow wire, and still could do everything I needed to behind the bonnet switches. I would still like to replace the rear bonnet switch (now my front bonnet switch) since it really won't allow me to get into that relay part Wade showed without opening a big hole in it. Any suggestions?

My last pic is upside down. I took it that way so some of the light from the flash would get in there. I forgot to flip it. Jay
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On the schematic, only 4 pins are shown as being used on all three bonnet switches, and the internals are all identical. The schematic does show 5 pins being used on the window switch, but the internals are different for that switch (so it was a little risky IMO to try that switch for the rear bonnet). That 5th pin may be used on some other make automobile that uses the same switch -- just a thought (as the logo on the switch button really doesn't look like a Mondial )...

It's not a typical part that get replaced routinely, so it doesn't show on their website, but I'd get a price from www.allferrariparts.com before deciding how much time is worth "investing" in fixing the old one, and the price at www.eurospares.co.uk isn't too crazy. The other option is find a used one from a salvaged car -- even in a bad crash, it would survive.

 

Hi,

Looks like the switch is easy to fix
As far as I can see there is a resistor, diode, transistor and a coil
Check the resistance of the coil
I can rewind the coil at work for you if needed
No need to spend 100s of dollars if you ask me

 

Thanks. The problem as I see it is opening that little white plastic switch holder without destroying it. You need to press pretty hard on this button to activate it and I'm afraid that if I open the switch up, I will one day push my finger and the switch right into the back of the dashboard. Wade, you did it. Is there a way to get in there without losing the integrity of the switch or breaking the circuit board? I'd love to just fix the relay.

 

Jay, I gently pried at each corner and the faceplate popped right off. It snaps back on just as easily although I wouldn't do that too many times since its mount pins were secured by heating/melting. It does feel pretty tight though.

The faceplate is not a load-bearing component of the switch overall (flange on white housing for that) so you should be okay.

The more I look at it the more I'm convinced that this switch was designed, not as a consumable, but to simplify repair and maintenance instead.

 

Wade, I totally agree the faceplate is very early to pop off. It makes it that I cannot understand why the prices are different for the front and rear bonnet switches when you can simply swap the fronts. I might even consider buying the relatively cheap engine lid switch if the innards of these three switches are the same as you say Steve. Here's the prices from allferrari parts.

But that doesn't let you take the circuit board out of the plastic holder because of the electrical connectors on the back. I think yours were broken off which then made it easy to pull the circuit board out. Did you pull it out from the front of the plastic holder or did you make a hole in the side? If you look at my pictures of the back, I'd have to remove those electrical contacts and even then, doesn't the circuit board sit in a groove inside the plastic?

121594 ENGINE LID RELEASE SWITCH (OLD # 116019) $130.00

121595 FRONT HOOD RELEASE SWITCH, 400i/MONDIAL QV/3.2 (OLD # 2578089200)(VEGLIA # 082.3024.991.1) $198.00

121596 REAR LID RELEASE SWITCH, MONDIAL QV/3.2 (OLD # 116021)(VEGLIA # 082.3025.991.1)(NLA) $360.00

 

That coil looks like the one in a Bosch relay 0 332 014 113, if it's only to make contact to actuate solenoids.

Guido
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I'd love to replace the relay only and not the entire switch, but again, how do I get to the relay without totally destroying the switch?

 

I see what you mean. After I popped off the faceplate, the board slid out with a little help. It's apparent that the electrical contacts were "riveted" on last and you will have to remove them to slide out the internal assembly. Still doable, but not with ordinary hand tools I'm afraid.