TR Spoiler Removal / Repair / Re-Installation Pictoral Thread | FerrariChat
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TR Spoiler Removal / Repair / Re-Installation Pictoral Thread

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by jungathart, Sep 25, 2009.

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  1. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

    Jun 11, 2004
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    Komrade Jung
    #1 jungathart, Sep 25, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    :) PREFACE: This thread seeks to expand and elaborate, especially photographically, upon the one by kerrywittig on the removal and refinishing of his spoiler:

    http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92289&highlight=tr+spoiler+removal

    It is in tribute to his work, and it is with his OK, that I am using his text (in italics) as the base for the description of my own variation on the work, with my added notes. The work at first seemed daunting, but as I repeatedly read Kerry’s thread and looked at the pics, I soon became inspired and motivated. This is my first time doing something like this, so I think anyone else could as well! It took me @ 2 weeks of free time this September.

    I truly hope this thread will become a valuable resource for those of us who call FerrariChat home.


    Photos 1, 2, 3 = 21 years of repeated cycles of scrapings-damage-patchwork repairs. The opposite corner is not as bad.



    REMOVAL

    Photo 4. "First remove the center bolt (10mm) in the center under the hood.
    At that point, crank the steer tires to the inside (driver’s side to passenger and visa versa).

    Photos 5, 6, 7, 8. Next remove the enclosure panels in the front of the wheel wells, 5 to 6 bolts (10mm).
    [Driver’s side is shown as representative, passenger’s side is not vented]

    Photo 9. With these panels removed you gain access to the 10mm nut that is located about 3" inside the fender. JUST loosen it 2 or 3 turns.
    [Note: it’s no big deal if you loosen it too much and it drops off the bolt, since you will recover it upon removing the spoiler!]

    Photo 10. Now remove the yellow parking/turn lens with a Philips screwdriver.
    [Incidentally, you might notice that I have a protective film applied over these lights. I obtained the sheet from Griot’s Garage and did my own cutting.]

    Photos 11, 12, 13. You then take a regular straight blade screwdriver and remove the 2 screws [circled] and take out the light assembly, unplug the electrics and set aside.
    [Prior to reinstalling the connections I cleaned the contact blades and applied some di-electric grease to prevent future corrosion]

    Photo 14. This now gives you "access" to the 10mm nut that is located about 15" front of the wheel well opening. Again JUST loosen 2-3 turns.
    [Note: again, it’s no big deal if you loosen it too much and it drops off the bolt, since you will recover it upon removing the spoiler!]

    You then remove any Philips head screws (that’s what was holding the aluminum belly pan covers on mine) or rivets from the front bottom edge of the spoiler.
    [I replaced the ‘original’ screws with #8 machine screws, used the original washers and saved the original screws]

    Photos 15, 16, 17. Now the spoiler should be pulled forward and there ya go.

    I suggest that when replacing any of the panels or the spoiler itself that you use new stainless steel bolts/nuts/washers/screws and anti-seize. Also here is your opportunity to clean any debris out of the AC condenser and clean and detail areas that NO ONE will ever see.........but you will know are clean, tidy and correct!

    Hope this is helpful to others. Kerry"



    REPAIR

    Photo 18. This is about all the materials you would need. Make sure you mask of the four mounting bolts to protect from future sprayings.

    Photos 19, 20, 21. After fiber-glassing.

    Photo 22. After 5 to 6 cycles of Bondo application and sanding. I started out with 80-grit and progressed to 220-grit wet sanding after a couple of coats of sealing primer.

    Photos 23, 24, 25. After the final coat of primer. I then made tracings of the top and bottom silhouettes of the spoiler, with screw-hole markings, for future reference.

    Photo 26. After being sprayed with Line-X, which btw, does not add that much weight to the unit. It was this demonstration video from Line-X which convinced me to use the product instead of just repainting it:

    http://www.linex.com/free_fall_12.shtml



    RE-INSTALLATION

    Photos 27, 28, 29, 30. Don’t forget about the shims. If your spoiler required them previously, you will need them again regardless. The ‘new’ spoiler is perceptibly thicker than before, so fitting is a little more snug; but I did not need to force anything back on or in.

    In order to facilitate future spoiler removals (Heaven forbids), I carefully marked and pre-drilled four holes corresponding with the four mounting bolts directly above.
    The next time I have the car on a friend’s lift; I will use a step-drill and create 5/8” ports to access these bolts. Be careful with the 2 holes below the bolts proximal to the wheel well splash guards, since there is a sub-frame element just medial to where you will need to create the ports.
    I will then paint and grease the cut edges and plug with rubber body plugs.

    From this project onwards, a 10mm socket on a flex extension shaft would easily reach these spoiler-mounting bolts, eliminating the need to remove the front signal light groups or the splash guards. On my car, the passenger side splash guard was metal -vs. the plastic one on the driver’s side- and I was unable to flex it sufficiently for removal; thus I had to extricate the battery to get to the needed mounting bolt.

    I spread a generous amount of industrial grease along the inferior surface of the spoiler to further minimize the impact of any future contact it might make with an offending surface.

    Kerry took it a step further and fashioned a skid plate for his. Not being certain that I need one, still, I am looking into having something similar made by a friend who fabricates metal parts for a local racing shop. We’ll need to decide upon choice of metal and thickness.
    Possibly this is a service we can offer to owners of other cars and models … stay tuned!
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  2. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

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    #2 jungathart, Sep 25, 2009
    hmm ... looks like I will have to re-upload the pics later as jpegs, so you won't have to open them with 'Word'...
     
  3. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    #3 kerrywittig, Sep 25, 2009
    Thanks for the props!

    Spoiler looks good. You will never have another chip, scrape or crack in that spoiler again............unless you hit that possum just to the right of the center line at speed!!!

    Kerry
     
  4. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
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    #4 vincenzo, Sep 25, 2009
    looks good...

    can the line-x be diluted in an effort to reduce the amount of texture?

    most all the TRs these days have smooth paint - the line-x looks more close to OEM.

    perhaps a fine spray of satin black paint would get even closer.

    looks good - the satisfaction level must be high - good work!

    Rgds,
    Vince
     
  5. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    #5 kerrywittig, Sep 25, 2009
    If the Line-X shop knows what their doing, the finish can be smooth or just about any texture "size" that you want. the texture is accomplished by "dusting" the Line-X up & above the surface and letting it fall/settle onto the surface which has already been coated with Line-X.....which is smooth. The "droplets" then adhere and dry to the smooth surface and creates the "textured' look. By the way Line-X is dry to the touch in about 5 seconds!

    As you noted...... the OEM finish (at least my '87 TR) was a somewhat textured finish.

    Kerry
     
  6. jasonporsche

    jasonporsche Karting

    May 7, 2007
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    #6 jasonporsche, Sep 25, 2009
    Thanks for all the good info. Really helped me out. Hopefully, I will get mine back on this weekend and go for a cruise!
     
  7. Joe_CT

    Joe_CT Formula 3
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    May 16, 2007
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    #7 Joe_CT, Sep 25, 2009
    jungathart,

    Thanks for taking the time to document this with all the great pictures. I printed out all the pictures and put them in my "TR Winter Project" folder. This will make the job much easier now that I know exactly where all the bolts are.

    Joe
     
  8. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

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    #8 jungathart, Sep 25, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    These pics should display:
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  9. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

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    #9 jungathart, Sep 25, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  10. ASG 86TR

    ASG 86TR Formula 3

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    #10 ASG 86TR, Sep 26, 2009
    Great write up between yourself and Kerry....

    BTW, what was the cost to have it sprayed?
     
  11. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

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    #11 jungathart, Sep 26, 2009
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2009
    Thank you!


    If you bring it to a Line-X dealer ready to be sprayed, it should run you between 125-150.
    I emailed 2 different places in the area pics (without telling them what it goes on) to get quotes, and went with one that responded first (who initially wanted 225) since I was needing to have it done by that weekend.
    The other place called the next day and offered 125.
     
  12. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    #12 kerrywittig, Sep 27, 2009
    Mine.............................$68
     
  13. Mr.Chairman

    Mr.Chairman F1 Rookie

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    #13 Mr.Chairman, Sep 27, 2009
    Nice write up and pics.. I had a different procedure for removing.. I removed the three under panels and had complete access to all the screws to remove spoiler. I did not even have to remove the fender liners or lamps.. Great job... still on the fence with the line x..

    R
     
  14. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #14 Shamile, Sep 27, 2009
    Dear Ferraristi,

    Jungathart, fantastic write up!!

    You really did a great job on the spoiler and putting all those captions on the photos...no quick task.

    Also, great job on the fiberglass repair itself. I'm very impressed.

    .....still not "on board" with the Line X though.....too textured.


    Man, we really need a TR repair thread sticky like the boxer girls !!

    It would be such a shame to let this and many threads like these slip into the black abyss of the dreaded "search"

    Come on Mods....please create a TR Repair Sticky!


    Shamile
     
  15. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

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    #15 jungathart, Sep 27, 2009
    Mr.Chairman,
    Thank you for your kind words and your additional input!

    Can you tell me more about these boxer girls?? ;)
     
  16. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

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    #16 jungathart, Sep 27, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    In order to facilitate future spoiler removals (Heaven forbids), I carefully marked and pre-drilled four holes corresponding with the four mounting bolts directly above.

    I had the car on a friend’s lift Friday (09/26/09); I used a step-drill and create 5/8” ports to access these bolts.

    [Be careful with the 2 holes below the bolts proximal to the wheel well splash guards, since there is a sub-frame element just medial to where you will need to create the ports.]

    I ran across a thread here in which such ports were described, but I was unable to locate it this evening in order to give it, and the O.P., acknowlegement for the idea. Please share this information with me if you know it. Thanks ahead of time.

    I used black-colored silicone to glue 5/8" nylon hole plugs in place, and will re-grease the lower edge of the spoiler.

    ____________________________________________________________________________________________________


    Obviously, I hope to never need to pull the spoiler off again, but will avoid all the steps above should that day arrive.
    For those of us who simply intend to repair and repaint our spoilers, these ports will be time savers; since this task might have to be done perhaps a bit more often. (??)

    My best regards to you all. :cool:
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  17. rsqrd308

    rsqrd308 Formula Junior

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    #17 rsqrd308, Sep 28, 2009
    Ok, now please repeat for the spoiler on my 2001 SLK320 :)
     
  18. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

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    #18 jungathart, Sep 28, 2009
    Sure,
    When shall I pick up the car in AZ and drive it cross country... and then drive it back after the work is done? :)
    j-
     
  19. rsqrd308

    rsqrd308 Formula Junior

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    #19 rsqrd308, Sep 29, 2009
    Can't you just come here?

    Although I will admit my spoiler on the TR could use a little work, too.

    2-fer the price of one :)
     
  20. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

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    #20 jungathart, Sep 29, 2009

    A 2-fer deal it is!
    First i'll pick up the Benz, then drop it off when done, then rinse and repeat with the TR.:)
     
  21. Bradwilliams

    Bradwilliams F1 Veteran
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    #21 Bradwilliams, Jan 12, 2015
    I'm working on this now and I cannot for the life of me get the passenger side panel off. All screws are removed and its not moving anywhere argh!
     
  22. Bradwilliams

    Bradwilliams F1 Veteran
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    #22 Bradwilliams, Jan 12, 2015
    Got it off, but had to do some serious tugging without causing damage, hopefully I can get it back in as I attach the spoiler to make it easier.
     
  23. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    #23 302Tim, Jan 14, 2015
    Brad, you probably know now that that panel is aluminum--on installation you can bow it slightly and it will pop in (the outboard upper corner is the tightest). I recommend some anti-seize on the bolts before installing, these (and the LH side) were the only corroded bolts on my car.
     

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