Yes I know I'm lazy but....

Check out this thread on collapsing Fram filters...

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195878&highlight=fram+oil+filter

 

Changing the oil is very easy.

USE A BALDWIN FILTER (suply your own)

Royal Purple should be fine.

 

I run Baldwin B253 and RP....no worries....

 

+1000 on the baldwins.

 

+100 on the Baldwin B253.

Fram filters have a reputation for collapsing in other high performance cars, too; not just Ferraris. Would suck to lose oil pressure or such and have to rebuild your engine because of a $12 part . . .

Another option for oil in addition to RP is Red Line. If you don't want a synthetic, Valvoline VR1 racing works, too. Make sure the oil you are using has sufficient ZDDP content for solid lifter engines.

 

Bring your own filter(the Baldwin is great and looks nice in red) and they should credit you back about $5. Just make sure you bring a picture of the bottom of your car and show them which plug to remove. Trans and engine plugs look similar. Also, make sure you have a new crush washer for them.

 

They might not have the correct size bit for the drain plug, either . . .

 

sorry. i would rather do it myself. too many horror stories from some of these quicky places.

 

make sure mr. monkey lube doesnt drop the wrong fluid...

 

I used quick lube many years ago, had about a 300 mile drive to make so while they were changing the oil I had them check the gear oil in the front and rear end of my Chevy, Made it about 90 miles and lost the rear end. You guessed it, no gear oil and no plug. Cost me around $700 with the tow bill. When I returned home I called the owner of the business and his response to me was "prove it" That was the LAST time any of my vehicles saw a quick lube.

 

+1

If you don't watch what they are doing and direct them to the right plug I'll bet a Baldwin filter they will unscrew the gear oil plug by mistake.

-F

 

Overtighten drain plug and strip threads in oil sump.

 

geez... with all the anal preparations, why not just do it yourself.

 

Baldwin as recommended and use what's been used previously if proper. No reason to switch to synthetic if the proper weight dino oils have been used IMO. Can get the Baldwin's at any trucker parts store.

Jeff

 

Same here. Take your time don't rush it and you will be OK. Some great step-by-step help
(Bridman & Carl Rose) to help you along. Takes me longer to drink 2 beers than to change the oil.

 

The 308/Mondial engine is the easiest car I have ever owned to do an oil change; the filter is right out in the open, the fill point is out in the open and the drain plug is . . . you get the point.

Biggest issue is getting a large enough oil drain container to hold all the old oil and it's not so difficult.

If you never changed oil on a car in your entire life, this is the one to start with.

 

Nothing "anal" about it -- lots of potential $$$ to damage/go wrong; your average jiffy lube monkey isn't used to seeing oil pans and plugs like the 308's, and isn't trained to think on the job. Murphy's Law dictates that he will screw something up.

I agree that I would never take a car to one of those places, and in my mind I am questioning what kind of care the owner is taking of the car overall if he is "too lazy" to do it himself or take it to someone who knows better. I wonder what other kinds of shortcuts are being/have been taken on this car. His only saving grace is that the local Corvette guys swear by the jiffy lube shop. Corvette guys can be quite anal themselves; on the other hand, it's just a 350 Chevy . . .

Despite my comment in the paragraph above, I am giving the owner the benefit of the doubt that the Corvette and jiffy lube people are all conscientious overall and thoughtful in their work, and that he (the owner) is not making a bad judgment call about the jiffy lube people because he is there to talk to them and we are not.

 

Owning several Subaru Service Centers in the Pacific Northwest for some 20 plus years we could write a book on the horror stories these $10.00 per hour idiots have done. At the very least stripped drain plugs either cross threaded or driven in with an impact wrench. Installing the drain plug without the needed crush ring. After they do the damage they don't bother to tell you, they just jamb in a rubber expanding plug and hope it does not fall out before the next oil change. We have seen drain plugs stripped and then covered with gasket sealer to stop the dripping and leaking. As mentioned their favorite solution is to install a expandable plug that once expanded is nearly impossible to remove from the pan.

Subaru does not reccomend any Penzoil, or Quakerstate product. These are hi parofin based oils that will coat the inside of an aluminum motor like "Pam" burned in a frying pan. It gums up the innards and gets gummy and sticky. Subaru Turbos run hotter than a regualr motor and with the cheap parofin oil will sludge up and clog the turbo oil suppy lines. Subaru reccomends Castrol syntec blend, Kendal syntec blend, or Valvoline syn blend. No residue left behind with the higher running temps.

You can not buy a good enough filter, any major filter manufacture, in fact many filters are are private branded and manufactured by only 2 or 3 companies. The general rule of thumb is to buy a National brand, Baldwin, Napa, or Purolator, or a OEM filter. Do yourself a favor and check out the website "oil filters exposed" a very interesting filter expose pay special attention to the Fram comparason.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS USE FRAM FILTERS ON THEIR FERRARI'S!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Howard Musolf
tr0768
1981 308gtsi
1982 400i Cabriolet
Maserati spider
2 many brass era cars

 

Get real------------------ why do they make you wait in the lounge while they work on your car? Insurance regs-----------------right. I won't even go to the horror stories. How motivated will you be for minimum wage? lostbowl

 

It's a dangerous thing to ask about oil weights ... you'll get dozens of opinions!! For what it's worth, I've been running Mobil 1 0W40 this year and I'm very happy with it. There has been a slight drop in oil pressure as this weight isn't quite as heavy as the recommended weight, but as Dr. Haas pointed out in his extensive discussion on oils, it's oil flow that really helps your engine. 0W40 has improved flow, therefore, I'm confident that my engine is being well protected. I have noticed a slight increase in oil drips under my car, but I don't care too much about this as long as the engine's internals are well protected. You can get Mobil 1 0W40 at Canadian Tire.