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More on Thin Oils, A Used Oil Analysis

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by AEHaas, Oct 21, 2009.

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  1. JCR

    JCR F1 World Champ
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    Redline states they use polyol-esters. Perhaps sourced from companies like Hatco http://www.hatcocorporation.com/pages/syntheticlubes/polyolesters.htm Motul also make an ester based motor oil. I'm not sure what family of ester is used. A long time ago Amsoil sourced diesters from Hatco. Mobil 1 uses some type of ester with its majority PAO product. This is because PAOs have poor solubility with the additive package.
     
  2. James_Woods

    James_Woods F1 World Champ

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    Thanks. Was there ever anything said about esters naturally having some detergency to absorb moisture or the like?

    Fascinating subject.
     
  3. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Actually Terry, Ferrari made that available to the dealers some time ago and we stocked it. We were told to use it in any car that saw severe use. If I recall there is a TSB to that effect. We used it in a number of cars, mostly 355 and 360. We had several that would see such high oil temps in summer months, sometimes even in street driving that the Shell 5-40 could just not cope with it.
     
  4. brian.s

    brian.s F1 Rookie
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    I suggest 10W60 synths for track cars. Makes a huge oil temp difference in porsche and Lambos FWIW. Used Elf but now Lubro Moly.
     
  5. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #55 tazandjan, Oct 27, 2009
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    Brian(s)- Interesting. Makes sense. I do not have the bulletin, but then I do not have very many of them.

    For anyone wondering when Ferrari starting using Shell lubricants instead of AGIP, it was January 1996 and here is the bulletin. They started recommending both 5W-40 and 0W-40 beginning with the 550/360, as near as I can determine. Have never seen any Shell Helix Ultra 0W-40, though, only 5W-40.

    Taz
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  6. Mitch Alsup

    Mitch Alsup F1 Veteran

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    When I ran the oil weight experiments several years ago, I noticed that the oil temps would go up when heavier oils (xxW-50 and xxW-60) were used both at the track and on the road.
     
  7. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mitch- Some inconsistencies here. I think I understand everything going on, since my BS is in chemistry, but some folks see lower temps with higher oil weight second numbers (xxW-XX) and some see lower temperatures under extreme conditions.

    Guess that is why I am sticking to factory recommended oil weights. Like Mark said, maybe I get a little extra wear, but I am not going to trash my engine.

    Taz
    Terry Phillips
     
  8. AEHaas

    AEHaas Formula 3

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    “I would also not buy a car that had been short tripped.”

    This is one reason I use 0W-XX oils and the main spec I look at is the viscosity at 40 C. Many people rev up their engines before the 20 - 30 minutes it takes for the oil to get up to operating temperature, including me.

    As such I have a system of pulleys in the garage so that I can push a car out then pull it back inside with a winch after washing. That way the car is not just started up and moved. If I cannot drive it for at least 20 minutes the car is not used unless it was already warmed up from use earlier.

    “P 4/5 needs 0-60.”

    Except that the Shell product thins very quickly to a 40 grade oil. You guys are fooling yourselves by reading the label and not the actual oil viscosity with use. You are at most using a 40 grade oil most of the time:

    ‘From a post on BITOG:

    10/2007:
    This is my neighbor’s 2003 Ferrari Enzo with a total of 8,800 miles on the left column and my 2003 Enzo with a total of 3,000 miles on the right column (middle column as of today-2009). Both cars had 1,400 miles on the oil. His obviously had more break-in time. He had the oil changed by the Ferrari dealer using the required 10W60 Shell Helix Ultra Racing oil. I ran 0W30 Castrol GC.

    The recommended interval is 5,000 miles, less if on the track. This is strictly off track use in town and on the highway, probably 50-50 for his car and 90 percent city for me.

    His oil was tested by: www.youroil.net, while I got the full, total evaluation from Terry Dyson at www.dysonanalysis.com.

    7/2009:
    Another 1,400 miles on the Enzo now with 4,400 miles, still not broken in fully. When I took out the GC I put in 0W-30 RLI. This is what we are testing here today. Again, tested by Dyson. Remember that his testing counts larger particles as well as all the smaller ones so other labs may give false lower values.

    My driving has been exclusively in town and most often back and forth from Home Depot for small items. Just before this sample was taken we drove to the Ferrari dealership in Tampa to test drive the new Ferrari California. Going there and back took a total of 2.5 hours or so and about half of the way back it rained (very hard).

    So the fuel dilution was probably much higher before this short trip. At no time has the oil temperature in this engine gotten above 180 F. This oil has been in for nearly two years but Terry Dyson says I should just keep going (and going and going).

    What is particularly interesting is that I put in 0W-30 RLI and the viscosity (with probably even a lesser dilution after this trip) is in the 20 grade area now. Remember that a 60 grade oil is spec’ed.
    ................................................................................................................

    _____________Shell..GC...RLI
    Iron___________ 32...11...7
    Chromium ______<1...0....1
    Nickel ___*_______ 2...1....0
    Aluminum ______ 11...3....2
    lead ___________ 16...0....3
    Copper _________25...8....4
    Tin ____________<1...0....0
    Silver _________<.1....0....0
    Titanium _______<1....0....0
    Silicon __________ 7...3....4
    Boron __________ 1...3....16
    Sodium _________ 8...3....10
    Potassium ______<10...0....0
    Molybdenum ____ <5....1....2
    Phosphorus ___1026..935...1032
    Zinc ________ 1135..1228..1055
    Calcium _____ 1454..1671..2108
    Barium _______ <10....0....2
    Magnesium ___1219...526..53
    Antimony _____<30...0....265
    Vanadium ______<1...0....0
    Fuel %Vol _____<1...1.2...1.3
    Flash_______not done..335..320
    Abs Oxid ______ 34...10...127
    Abs Nitr _______ 11...8....8
    Wtr %vol ______<0.1...KF=247....KF=1063 “a little damp, but not bad”
    Vis CS 100C __ 15.8...11.8...8.6
    Vic CS 40C___not done...66...44
    SAE Grade _____40....30....20
    Gly test ______NEG...0.37 “not antifreeze”....0
    TBN _________not done...7.9....5.9
    Visc Index_____not done..154...177
    Soot__________not done...0...0.01

    I like to spin my wheels and I like revs. There is no place around here to drive at a sustained 225 MPH so there is no way the oil will get hot in this very efficient set up. There has been no debris in any of my oil filters (I cut them all apart). The spark plugs looked appropriate (I just changed them due to time in use, not miles).

    Todays 10W-40 oils out perform yesterdays 50 grade oils in every way. I believe that the less honey-like newer oils allow for better protection during the initial 30 minutes of use of the car. I will bet that most trips average less than this for most owners of high performance cars. I personally only know a handful of people who actually race these expensive exotic cars, less than 1 percent of the owners is my guess.

    I had the pleasure of meeting up with Harmut from Renntech this past weekend. We discussed the destruction of a car with only 15km on the odometer. The engine was pieces internally at many points. There were large particles in the oil filter. The conclusion was that the owner proably was revving the engine up without actually driving the car causing cavitation from too thick an oil. Yes, just one story but this is more usual than race track use at 200 MPH for the average owner in my experience.

    I like Shell oils less each day mainly because it thins quickly and has among the lowest flash points of any oils. Evaporation is high causing a lot of “topping it up”. Will this pattern cause premature exhaust system wear?

    My 575 Maranello used a qt. of oil in its first 500 miles then none at all for the next 8,000 on 0W-20 Mobil 1.

    One last thing. Oil thins as the temperature goes up. It thickens under pressure (Mitch alluded to this). It can act as a solid and is another reason chunks of bearing material is sometimes found in otherwise low mileage cars.

    aehaas
     
  9. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Terry, I have 6 Ferrari motors out for rebuild or a big repair right now and not a single one because of worn out lubricated parts or parts worn out or failed from lubrication issues. In 30 years of Ferrari that has been pretty constant.

    But I suppose it makes for a good intellectual exercise if no one follows silly advice.
     
  10. Napolis

    Napolis Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Ali

    I change my oil after every track day period. Make yourself happy but I stand by my statement:

    I would not buy a car that ran lighter weight oil than that reccommended by the manufacture. Period.

    I ran my MK-IV for 25K miles on the street and track using 40W rotella which is what is reccommend for that one. I changed the oil often. We recently tore it completely down.
    Everything was fine. Think everything would be fine if we'd used 20W oil? I don't.

    You get your oil up to 180 F That doesn't impress me. I get mine up to over 300 F. In my Cigarette Boat which runs 50W Mobil one it gets past 330 F. Those motors have held together for many, many years and hours.
     
  11. Etcetera

    Etcetera Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Pic?
     
  12. AEHaas

    AEHaas Formula 3

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    You do everything right. And you are one of the few who get their vehicles on the race circuit. When you change your oil after each race the amount of wear is actually relatively low in oil tests I have seen from those conditions. The question is for those average exotic drivers who never get the car past a 30 minute drive, and for those who do not drive at sustained high speeds.

    I have shown supporting evidence in several cars used on city streets and local highways that the "race" oil spec'ed may contribute to higher wear in those conditions.

    It is only one more view point. When I started posting in Bobistheoilguy some years ago there was no use of 20 grade oils. 98 percent of the people thought all my cars would blow up. Years later and millions of cars using 20 grade oils had left only a few "thick oil" people remaining. ...add a thousand posts of support.

    aehaas
     
  13. Napolis

    Napolis Three Time F1 World Champ
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  14. SRT Mike

    SRT Mike Two Time F1 World Champ

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    #64 SRT Mike, Oct 27, 2009
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2009
    :)

    The infamous Manhattan Express (knew that by heart!). One of my favorite "cult" JC movies, and IMO helped launch Jackie Chan's career in the USA.

    Jim, if you ever feel like talking about the behind-the-scenes stuff on that movie, I'd love to read it. I've read that you and Jackie didn't exactly see eye-to-eye, and I am sure you have some great commentary from your perspective.
     
  15. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    As it should by a couple degrees due to the increased shear and that's what you got right?

    The point is though that even with the increase in temp you move 25 degrees further from the failure point and putting you in a much safer place.
     
  16. Mitch Alsup

    Mitch Alsup F1 Veteran

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    Valve guides are a lubricated part. {Valve seats were a lubricated pat when tetra-ethyl-lead was in the gasoline.}.
     
  17. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    Exactly.

    Ali's engine doesn't blow up because he doesn't drive the car....he idles it. Hammer with oil that thin and the temp at the bearing will rise FAST the viscosity will drop and the bearings will fall.....I would give it well under 5 minutes.

    What’s worse is he knows that full well and yet he continues to post absolute cr*p about 20w being appropriate for the car. The good doctor has very clearly doesn't understand the difference between a honda civic and an enzo........
     
  18. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Your point being?
     
  19. Mitch Alsup

    Mitch Alsup F1 Veteran

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    Oil temps at 103dF ambient temperatures (all taken at TWS one summer)
    10W-30 oil 283dF
    10W-40 oil 285dF
    20W-50 oil 295dF

    20W-50 oil also has slow to build oil pressure at startup (cool to cold) and you can hear it. 10W-40 gets up to pressure in 3-ish second after a week of not-running. 10W-30 gets up to pressure in 1-1.5 seconds after a week of not-running. I currently run 10W-40 oils mainly due to a desire to run the car on the track at some random time in that oil fills life. Were this car be decomissioned from track life, I would be happy to run it on 10W-30 oil (Redline).

    All oils tested (more than 8) loose 5-7 PSI on the oil pressure gauge after a day at the track. And it does not seem to mater if the track day was one session or 4 sessions. Its not the oil filter as it has been replaced but the oil pressure stayed low. I suspect shear.

    We have been inside the bottom of this engine and removed the bearings for inspection. They were in such good shape* the bearings were reinstalled, this was 10K miles ago. Prior to this the engine had been in 24 track events and has at least 10 minutes over redline**, and afterwards has been in 8 track events and a couple of dyno sessions. Overall there are almost 5,000 track miles and 58K actual miles.

    (*) there was a minor polish at the loaded point but 75% of the bearing surface had the original lightly-brushed patina. The polish was perfectly smooth, thin, and absolutely free from surface details (such as scratches).

    (**) only 3 times was the rev-limter hit
     
  20. AEHaas

    AEHaas Formula 3

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    "Ali's engine doesn't blow up because he doesn't drive the car....he idles it. Hammer with oil that thin and the temp at the bearing will rise FAST the viscosity will drop and the bearings will fall.....I would give it well under 5 minutes. "

    I'm Game. We run the car as hard as you can run it for 10 minute around here somewhere (with car and driver safety). If it fails as you promise then I have to rebuild the engine, est cost of $20.000? If it does not you pay me $10,000. A third party holds the funds.

    aehaas
     
  21. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    What is the factory recomended oil for that engine?

    It appears 40 is just fine.....I'd still probably run a 50 becasue i like margin, but a 0-10w 50 instead of 20w50, I quit using the 20w except for staight racing when the synthetics came out years ago.
     
  22. Napolis

    Napolis Three Time F1 World Champ
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    I think Jackie hadn't had some one stand up to him for a long time. He got over it. It was an interesting experience which in the end is what it's about.
     
  23. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    What's in it for me? Although I'm told I have a gift for blowing up engines gives me no pleasure.

    Just so you know, if we are talking about an enzo the bill bill be closer to $100k I'd guess for just the engine damage (it's over $20k for a 308 rebuild) not counting the clutch, trans and brake work you'll also need. Pretty much any engine could be destroyed in 10 minutes so I'm not really sure what would be learned other than you've clearly got more money then you know what to do with. You've offer a silly wager.
     
  24. James_Woods

    James_Woods F1 World Champ

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    #74 James_Woods, Oct 28, 2009
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2009
    I used to own a water chemistry/environmental lab and I had an AA spectrometer.

    Some of the airplane guys and I used to try to make some sense out of the numbers on an oil sample from various sources.

    What I found was that on repeated samples, the numbers were all over the place. Maybe my technique was off, but we made an attempt to centrifuge the particulate matter, digest it into an acid solution, and then by calculation get a volumetric PPM on the original oil sample. Just the oil/particle sludge by itself would not make it through the nebulizer on my old Perkin-Elmer machine; and I just did chromium, copper, iron, and a few others. It takes a special and expensive source lamp for each and every metal ion you want to measure.

    I had the distinct idea that what you got for results were just as much a random proposition of what kind of particulates got into that sample as it were a linear expression of actual engine wear...but, as I say - this was just an amatuer experiment by a water treatment lab owner who was not in this business.

    BTW, did AA (Atomic Absorption spectrometry) just survive as a term for this kind of metal test by default? I thought most modern labs used a Plasma Emission type spectrometry for this...
     
  25. nthfinity

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