E-type restoration

Have decided to do something with my jaguar e-type other than let it sit for another 20 years in the garage. The engine and trans is currently being rebuilt at @ $10K. Am thinking of also having the body done correctly (bare metal to new paint) as well but have no idea what this will cost. There will be some body rust to cut out and patch, but the car is mostly solid.
Any ideas as to what a restoration shop might ask for this type of work? I'm thinking another $10K. Am I way off?

Any help appreciated!

 

There are too many variables to venture a guess here.

If you are very frugal about what gets fixed and settle for a Maaco paint job you might be near that number.

If you do it "right" it will likely be quite a bit more.

I've done a number of Etypes, they are wonderful cars if done right.
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I had mine redone about 2 years ago. I did a chrome off, glass out bare metal respray but did not remove the interior (because it is still original and in good shape) or drive train. The bonnet was removed and refinished inside and out. The spare wheel well also refinished (that where some of the rust was). There was very minimal rust repair and some repair work done on an earlier (prior to my ownership) minor accident repair. Total cost about 12K.

 

Where did you have the work done? Classic Jaguar is in TX I have bought many upgraded parts from them for my 65 OTS and they look like they do pebble beach paint, but are not cheap.
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Steve Crowley Services in Dallas. Steve has done Jags since the 80's. He was the paint and body guy for Buckingham's Restoration. Steve really knows his way around E-types. He also does PB quality work.

Btw, I misremembered the total bill, it was closer to $18.5K. Ouch. I guess I was just trying to forget.

 

My 1970 2+2 coupe. Will never be a show car, but a driver. Hope not to get too upside down on it. I guess I'd better get Macco.
Thanks
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Looks like Primrose, a somewhat unusual color on an Etype.

You would be wise to hold the purse-strings tight on this project as the Series II 2+2 doesn't have near the resale value of the Roadster or even the Coupe and at $20K + what you paid many years ago is a good goal to shoot for.

Examine the tubular subframe carefully now that the engine is out. There are places for moisture to enter and the battery is just above the left side tubes. I have seen them rusted out and have replaced tubes before. The integrity of the car depends on all those triangles being intact. Complete new subframes are available as a set but are over $3000.

 

I spent several hours with a restoration shop owner. He said the E-types were built with extremely close body fit spacing, resulting in paint rubbing issues, on doors especially.
His recommendation is to cut back the tight edges 1/4" and weld beam the edge to 3/16" clearance with the body. I've not heard this before.
Any one have similar rubbing issues on your e-types?

 

It's common for Etypes to have door fit issues although sloppy hinges could be the trouble as well.

I installed a NOS bonnet on a Series 3 coupe once and the back edge had to be trimmed by about 3/4" to close properly.

Welding the door edges is a trick that is commonly done to adjust gaps.

 

If this car has been sitting, then for sure you'll need a clutch, brakes (calipers and the aforementioned hand brake is a pain), ball joints, gas tank / fuel pump (unless drained), amongst other things.

Make sure the floors are in good shape. Not uncommon to weld in replacements, but as it's a unibody, you don't want any structural issues. Also, make sure the frame is fine under the battery - acid can leak and do damage.

IMHO (and just opinion), I'd forget painting it. Spend $10-15K to get it running and enjoy it.

 

$10K sounds low, as others have posted, especially given metalwork (and especially if there is any structural metalwork). You can count on finding more rust than you see now.

 

Yep, agreed. Never thought I'd see a car more prone to rust than my Datsun Z-Cars until I found my E-Type.

 

I spent 17 hrs detailing my 69 e-type (also primrose yellow) and it came up
nice enough for a driver (10 footer). You should try it, I sure wouldn't want to
pay to paint a 2+2 it would put you underwater in a hurry.

 

Well, here is where the e-type project stands to date.
The restoration (mentioned earlier) shop appears to do quality sheet metal work and has given an estimate of @$6.5K for soda blast, metal repair, and prime.
If I want to proceed to a smooth, ready to paint surface, another $7K. I am inclined to have this shop do the metal work, as I saw some serious work-in-progress in his shop (one of his guys was actually melting lead on a Model T's body). Evidently, his shop does a lot of metal fabrication.
The Mrs. is pushing to give the body work to a family friend's son-in-law, who owns an auto collision/paint shop in our state. Estimate on this coming next week when he is in town.
The third option is my engine machine shop's recommendation of quality (but slow) guy who does one car at a time and can do the work after the New Year. No estimate as yet.

 

well, since this is a 2 + 2, i would suggest a very modest restoration and move on to the much more desirable and appreciating(vs depreciating) coupe.
ed

 

I'd avoid option #2 if the friend is unfamiliar with all of the curves that combine to form an E-type. That said options 1 and 3 will probably put you severely underwater compared to the value of the finished car.

 

As long as you are comfortable never getting your money back.

There is something to be said for doing it right and having a car you enjoy driving.

 

its easy for many to say "do it the right way" when it comes to paint. I would suggest something better than macco but by no means spend 10k on the paint job of a 2+2. around 5k should give you a magnificent paint job that you will be more than proud of. You will not hang your head in shame! Try not to let the costs get too out of control... the 2+2s just aren't worth all that much. Remember this is for your enjoyment... hopefully you won't need a 10k paint job to enjoy the car. Also, when you spend that kind of money on paint... you will never want to drive the damn thingh

 

+1
Everybody wants Pebble Beach quality for some stupid reason. The last E-type I had I paid 3k for paint with body work. That was scratch and spray however.

 

In a quality finish that will survive for years the most important part is surface preparation.

 

including a donour car my car was a 250k Aust project back 5 odd years ago.
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225K US would be a near record. That is alot of work. Classic Jaguar said they still get 200K for a complete car with all their upgrades, as of 2 months ago.

The market on E Types is all over the map. Appears there are more series 3 for sale in the US than series 1 and the series 3 are asking loads of money.

I met a guy at a show who came up to me and told me after seeing my car years earlier at a show and taking loads of pictures and writing things down which helped him do a restoration of a 2+2 himself, the car was magnificient and he knew he would never get his money back, but it had family history and sentiment which always trumps everything.

 

it was a good car to start with.
is far from stock including motor,gearbox ,brakes and a few alloy panels.

 

I guess its because it is always easier to spend everyone else's money! LOL

 

thats because a series 3 recently bought RIDICULOUS money damn close to series one money... now every owner is trying to repeat the impossible