Replacing 328 injectors | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Replacing 328 injectors

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Iain, Nov 10, 2009.

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  1. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

    Apr 3, 2005
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    The condition and performance of the injectors depends mostly upon the condition of the gas that has been flowing through them. If the car sits for months at a time (as many ferraris do) with the stale gas then run through the injector, the injector is going to get dirty and the spray pattern will be affected (negatively), lessening performance.

    So if you want your injectors to last, keep that fuel fresh and clean!
     
  2. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
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    Apr 26, 2006
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    Sorry...that's what I meant. AFR....
     
  3. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    True that, but a reminder that all the 80's era Ferraris had the steel Bosch injectors which (apparently) were prone to failure, and resulting leaking into the cylinders, and poor patterns with age. Upgrading to the newer brass bodied bosch injectors is a worthwhile endevour.
     
  4. Robz328

    Robz328 F1 Veteran
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    Mar 16, 2009
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    A 328 fuel injector installation bushing at Ricambi is a whopping $268.51US!
    It is part # 113309.

    Are there any alternatives out there?

    Hard rubber ones would be better, eh?
     
  5. Futureman

    Futureman Formula 3

    May 16, 2007
    2,024
    Seems I remember an argument somewhere around here for NOT using the brass replacements? Don't recall why. Perhaps it was just another peyote flashback.
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #31 Steve Magnusson, Dec 15, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    You can do much better on price for 113309 at www.allferrariparts.com, but this part is not normally replaced unless broken (the "replaceable" parts that do the sealing are 113570 and 101031 -- the injector is held into bushing by the fat "donut" seal 113570, and the bushing is sealed to the manifold by an o-ring 101031).
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  7. Robz328

    Robz328 F1 Veteran
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    #32 Robz328, Dec 15, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2009
    They have it for $80 each...much better, but could be lower, especially if there is a rubber alternative (Bosch?).

    Thanks much, Steve.

    BTW, I have one that has worn so as to cause the injector to lean to the side causing too much HC on the emissions. I placed o-rings into the bushing to align the injector and passed emissions. I would like to have a more-permanent fix here.

    Rob.
     
  8. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
    Owner Project Master

    Nov 1, 2006
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    The o-ring is Bosch p/n 3 430 210 606
    Is is sold in 5-pieces bags
     
  9. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

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    Steve, any reason these things couldn't be made out of bronze? I could lathe up about 10 these things in an hour no problem on my lathe at home....
     
  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #35 Steve Magnusson, Dec 17, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2009
    No, but it would be better to use an Aluminum alloy as to not have so much added weight. On the KE-Jet TR (and as an update for the early euro K-Jet TR), they did go to an Aluminum bushing 123936 (that added another small sealing o-ring at the nose of the injector and that can be directly substituted for 113309 on the early euro TRs) -- but the F price is no better ;).

    Can't fault them for initially using a thermoset plastic material on 113309 -- ideally, you want as light as possible material with low thermal conductivity (but, obviously, the 113309 part's durability with time/heat has proved to be a little suspect).
     
  11. Robz328

    Robz328 F1 Veteran
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    How about a Delrin bushing?
    I agree about minimal thermal conductivity.
     
  12. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #37 Steve Magnusson, Dec 17, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2009
    Unfortunately, Acetals (Delrin) can only be used up to ~190 deg F for extended periods. For this application, you'd really need to use something good to ~300 deg F minimum for long-term use IMO -- phenolic, PAI, PES, PPS, etc.. (My guess would be that the stock 113309 is a phenolic.)
     
  13. Robz328

    Robz328 F1 Veteran
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    Good info, Steve.
    Thanks.
    I'm sure there's a thermoplastic that could fit the bill and be molded/machined.
     
  14. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

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    Thank you Steve - very good information, much appreciated. I swear you're a veritable encylopedia of all the relevant facts! Amazing.

    If someone can suggest a suitable material for maching I'll go get some from the local place here in Seattle and crank a few out on the lathe. I can beta test a few on my 308. I can't imagine I couldn't produce a bunch of these things for nearly free....
     
  15. GatorFL

    GatorFL Moderator
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    Nov 18, 2005
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    FYI, any good Bosch shop can clean them easily, my last major I had them all done.
     
  16. Gary Logan

    Gary Logan Karting

    Dec 19, 2009
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    West Vancouver, BC
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    Hi: I owned an 88 328 and replaced the injectors even after having the old ones cleaned, their spray pattern was still poor and the performance of the car did not improve. Waste of money. Replacing the injectors is actually quite easy. Make yourself a tool jig that ensures you pull the injector straight out. By that I mean create a pivot point on the manifold and lever the injector out. Replace the rubber donut seal, they get hard over time. I wouldn't mess with the seal further down in the injector cavity.

    Worked for me.

    Thanks Gary
     
  17. Gary Logan

    Gary Logan Karting

    Dec 19, 2009
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    West Vancouver, BC
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    Gary Logan
    Replacing the injectors and the seal on the bottom of the injector is easy.

    1. Disconnect the fuel intake line on top of the injector, be sure not to bend/pinch the fuel
    line;

    2. Build yourself a small jig out of wood, something that will create a leverage or fulcrum
    point;

    3. I used a large set of adjustable pliers, get the nose under the injector and lever the
    injector out;

    4. It takes a bit of force to remove the old injector but they should just pop out. The old
    will be hardened and well seated;

    5. The new injector with new seals are easily install by hand, lubricate the seal a bit with
    silicon or just saliva, best lubricant in the world;

    6. Lastly before I pulled the old injector I used my shop vac to suck up the debris around
    the injector.

    7. Re-attach the fuel, first start will be hard until injector is primed.

    8. Enjoy the ride, my cars performance improved dramatically.
     
  18. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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    Like this tool does:
    Unobtainium Supplies: K-Jetronic Fuel Injecter Puller/Installer tool
    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=138105101
     
  19. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    #44 f355spider, Dec 23, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2009

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