There seem to be two kinds of Mobil1 0w40 engine oil. Mobil1 0w40 Super Syn and Mobil1 0w40 New Life? The second one seems to be a bit more expensive. Is that the "new" oil? Is there a significant difference?
Select from the following list an oil that contains at least 1000ppm of phosphorus. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
My question is in my 2000 360 manual it askes owners to use 5W-40. in later models it leaves it open to use 0W-40. Now I see Mobil has this Diesel truck 5W40 API spec. of SM,SL. During the past 7 years I have used the 0W-40 mow have gone to this 5W-40. The question I have should of I of stayed with the 0W-40? My 360 has about 28,000 miles and dont track it spends most of its life in warm area of Florida. ???? Is the extra phosphorus 1100 vs 1000 and the extra zink 1200 vs 1100 a problem ????
Use either, they are so close, it will make no difference. Just change the oil at regular, appropriate times and enjoy the car!
In the big picture, you'll never live long enough to see a Ferrari motor wear out from inferior oil instead of simply breaking from fatigue or temperature shock (remember to warm up your fluids with easy driving before driving hard) or belt failure (and oil changes won't help prolong belt changes). But, the general rule of thumb is that the greater the spread in oil weight numbers, the faster the oil loses its protection properties. So a 0w40 oil will typically be expected to be "used up" before a 5w40. If you change your oil often, that will never be a problem. A 0w40 will change into a 5w30 in fewer miles than will a 10w40. So your oil choice depends on your useage, driving style, and length between changes, among other things. You want lower first #'s (e.g. the "5 in 5w40) for street driving with lots of ignition on/off cycles, and you want higher 2nd #'s (e.g. the 50 in 10w50) for extended high rpm speeds and heat cycles. If you use an oil that has both low first #'s and high 2nd #'s, then you will need to change it more often than you would if you went with less hybrid-ed oils.
0W-40 SuperSyn and New Life are the same. Look at the specs. Any marginal theoretical high-temp stability a 5W-40 might have over 0W-40 will be greatly outweighed by start-up performance in a street vehicle. To boot 0W-40 and 15W-50 are the 'street' oils recommended by M1 for track use. So their 0W-40 is a win-win. It's a very good oil, as evidenced by some key OEM approvals and is also ACEA A3/B3 certified.
Most modern full synthetic 10W-40 oils do not have any VII (viscosity index improvers). These are the molecules that thicken up when hot to make that 0W base oil a -40 oil at operating temperature. Thus, the 10W-40 oil will remain a 10W-40 oil as long as its in your sump. Modern synthetic 5W-30 oils, also, do not have any VIIs. For typical use in Florida, there is no particular need for the 0W or 5W attachment to that -40 oil; a 10W-40 oil will suit your car just fine. As to the 1000 ppm phorporus, anything over this amount is fine. The ZDDP molecule that contains the P and Z elements provide a great deal of the anti-wear package. The 1000 ppm level is for the direct actuation valve train (wiping friction) and if changed at regular intervals is enough even for a track weekend. anything more than 1200ppm is completely unnecessary excepting fro race track situations (or towing--yeah with a Ferrari). Cars with rollerized valve trains can get buy with as little as 600 ppm of P or Z. Cars with finger follwers need more like 1200 ppm (BMW M3 V8).
Incorrect. Perhaps you are confusing VM (Viscosity Modifiers) with VI (Viscosity Index), but all synthetic oils have them, or more to the point, all multi-grade oils have VMs. VMs are how you get a 5 weight oil (when it's cold) to behave like a 40 weight oil when it is hot. Keep in mind that 5 weight is lighter than 40 weight. Keep in mind that oil gets thinner (lighter) as it heats up. Without VMs, a 5 weight oil would quickly turn into a 0 weight...very bad for high temperature protection. What you want is the opposite behavior. So VMs make 5w40 oils possible. Instead of a 5 weight turning into a 0 weight when hot, VMs turn that 5 weight oil into the protection ability of a much thicker oil like a 40 weight, even though the oil got lighter. That's "multi-grade." The "multi-grade" means that the oil behaves like multiple weights of oil. One weight behavior when cold, another weight behavior when hot. VMs have a weakness, however. They have a short lifespan. The more VMs that you use, the wider grade range that you can have (e.g. a 0w60), but the more VMs that you use, the fewer miles (rpms, really) that you can drive before your vms degrade. You'll go from having 60 weight sheer protection to 50 weight, then down to 40 weight, then down to 30 weight...the longer that you go between oil changes.
ND- You are confusing dino oils with synthetics. Dino oils have a completely different system of viscosity measurement from synthetic oils. I think we have been through this before. Dino 5W-40 oil is 5W oil with viscosity additives to behave like a 40W weight when warm. Synthetic 5W-40 oil is a 40W oil that flows like 5W when cold. The two are in no way comparable and your earlier post is applicable to dino oils as they age, not synthetics. Taz Terry Phillips
Sorry; No, if you can find the 'base oil' of a 10W-40 forumulation and simply measure its cold viscosity and its warm viscosity you will find it indeed fits the 10W-40 SAE grade system. This oil has only PAO molecules and no additives whatsoever (including the VII, VMs,...); a pure solution of PAO molecules. Secondly, its the VIIs that make the grade spanning oils (not the VMs).
Sigh... Synthetic 10w-40 oils have VII additive packages: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html Synthetic base oils (shown below!) have viscosity indexes of less than 130: http://www.chevron.com/products/sitelets/baseoils/comp_light.aspx Commercial 10w40 synthetics add enough VMs in their VII packages to increase that viscosity index up above 150. e.g. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amo.aspx Image Unavailable, Please Login
Unless you are in FL TONIGHT......LOL. There IS a need for 5W-whatever, its gonna hit maybe a low of 28 F here!!
Well, what would Al Gore say about Global Warming. Al would say that it is the Global Warming causing all this cold and snow around the globe. Who says you can't have it both ways? How's your carbon footprint doing? Ciao, George
Thank god someone is on the ball to quote one of my previous posts! We have been here before on a different thread only circa 3 weeks ago! Unfortunately that nonsense quoted above concerning multigrade oils not having VMs has been taken from a certain Enzo owner that claims to know about oils! Please stop reading and then spreading information that is not correct! Unless you understand this area I think it's best not to post advice or information. You know what they say - a little knowledge is dangerous!
Hmm. Are they having a lot of cold and snow in the Southern Hemisphere right now? I mean, it was cold and snow "around the globe" wasn't it?
I hear ya. When its too hot, its GW. Too wet GW. Too dry, GW. And this week, too cold, also GW. Its warming even as we freeze to those guys.
WEll, since this is morphing into a GW thread, you know, that conveniently was omitted from Gore's movie, that southern hem stuff. Antarctica is growing except for the puny Palmer Peninsula. They choose to focus on the convenient events of NORTHERN phenomena. hey, back to what was it, motor oil (hehe).....
