Cat Removal - CEL disabling

I may have found the cause of my p1126 error. This code was new after my recent 30k service. 1126 could result from a number of things, plug wires, plugs and coil being amongst the things listed. Here's what I found today; checking the simplest of causes first.

First of all.... bank 2 IS cylinders 5-8, right? Because on that side, my plug wires were not clipped into the 4-clip wire retainer. They were simply hanging, left to dangle freely and get hung where they may.

Here's where I found wire #7:



Looking closer, here's how wire #7 looks:



Could there have been some arcing?

It's late now, but in the morning I plan on wrapping this sliced area with electrical tape, clearing the code, and going out for another 20 minute drive to see if the error comes back.

But just by looking, what do you guys think? Definitely worth the shot, right? The strange thing is that at Ricambi's site, plug wires are like $240.00 each except plug wire 7 which is like $150.00. What's that about??? Typo maybe??

Thanks,

Nick

 

start it at night when dark. youwill see arching if your wire is bad. wires don't go bad as much as people think

 

Even with a large slice in it like this:

http://idisk.mac.com/genyosai/Public/f355/wire7cut.jpg

This photo isn't that great (camera phone), but even the fiber-based insulation just below the outer rubber is sliced as well.

I'l find out today. I'm just going to wrap it in electrical tape, reset my codes and go for another spin to see if 1126 comes back. I'd never had code 1126. It came back from it's 30k service with this code. Coincidental that this codes shows after the engine out service, that the wires on bank two wire handing loosely, that wire 7 was caught on a hose clamp, that wire 7 is sliced pretty significantly, and that 1126 represents a possible misfire on bank 2.

I'll post my results.

Thanks,

Nick

 

For those who've removed cats...how bad is the exhaust smell? When I'm warming up my '69 Firebird I need to park it away from the house so the garage doesn't stink; I'm sure the improved combustion of the 355 is better so just curious what you guys have noticed.

 

I'd say not so bad... bearable. But then, I'm comparing to a seriously tuned MKIV Supra T88H that I had that was just the worst! I'd run the the F355 in the garage, but not the Supra (it would fumigate the house if left in the garage running for 5 minutes).

One thing, however... the Supra never smelled inside the car with the windows down. My F355 does... and funks up your clothing. I can only imagine what I must be in for once the weather warms up and I try running with the top down.

Well, this morning I simply wrapped the bad spot on the plug wire with electrical tape, snapped the wires into the retainer clip the way they should've been, and went for a hard, one hour drive. When I got back home I pulled the codes.... no P1126!! I drove longer and harder this morning than I did last night, so I'm hoping that this slice in the wire and the fact that it was close to the frame was causing a misfire unnoticeable to me. To make sure, however, I intend to take it again this evening to see if the 1126 error stays away.

I'll post the results.

--Nick

 

p1126 still exists. Gonna smoke test the intake area to see if there are leaks in the system. I think an exhaust leak before the primary o2 sensor could cause this problem, too; so I'll check the header on bank 2 where it mates to the cylinder head as well as where it connects to the bank 2 test pipe.

 

Wait...are you telling me that the Hyper-Flows were the cause of your p0422 and p0432 codes?

I installed Hyper-Flows about 2000 miles ago and both of those codes just triggered a CEL together. If the Motronic was going to pop a CEL, wouldn't it have done it within a few hundred miles after installation versus 2000?

I have a thread in the Technical Q&A about my problem. My tech has the 355 right now trying to diagnose the problem.

I just don't think Hyper-Flow would sell a product through Ricambi that would cause a CEL. I'll post what happens with my car when I hear back from My tech tomorrow.

I have to pass DEQ in July and I need to know what my options are if these cats keep triggering the CEL...

 

You may still need new wires. You can get them from www.kingsborne.com for a reasonable price...I think around $400 for the entire set. They are made from the same components as the factory ones, using Beru parts at each end. I believe the wire is even the same, but does not have the cylinder marking on it. Instead, they install individual heat shrunk take with cylinder markings at then end of the wire where it meets the coil end.

 

just bought the anti foul extensions, machined them per earlier thread instructions... am going to try and install my test pipes this weekend, will start off by putting them in the second sensor only and hope for no CEL..will let you know what happens

 

P1126 resolved!! Awful the reason behind the code; but resolved. No 0432 and 0422 with the straight pipes because of the ECU reflash. Also resolved code 1148. It ended up being tied to the 1126 issue. see the following thread for why I had 1126 and 1148 and what I think will resolve my only codes left... 1145 and 1149:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280731

--nick

 

Pull out the bulbs from the dash. Ha HA HA.

Very italian sollution.

I was thinking that only I do things like this, but I was mistaken.

Cheers

 

1445, 1449 and 1448 resolved!!!

See my last post in this thread:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=139539466#post139539466

--Nick

 

Nick, awesome news, I have been following your threads. I appreciate your detailed findings and solutions, they are bound to be of help to the rest of us eventually. Sorry this repair facility cut corners...idiots!

 

I hope others having these codes and blinking slow down lights find the info useful. Hopefully they have thermocouple issues and will start there first after reading my posts

As for this repair facility, geez! As I was installing the new thermocouples, I found two more assembly problems!! I'm so upset I could blow a gasket! Who knows what else I'll find, but as it stands right now:

1. The bracket that secures the fuel vapor canister is not fastened. The bolt that clamps the bracket shut is completely missing and the bracket was bent outwards (and still is) for removal of the canister.
2. I don't know exactly how to describe this, but I'll try. When looking at the engine area under the coolant tank, on each side bolted to the throttle bodies closest to the rear of the car, there's a clamp on a single stud that holds the engine harness (this stud is # 47 in this diagram... http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=1456). On each side this engine harness splits into many connectors, some of which are the o2 sensors. On the right side, the phase sensor connectors also branch from this part of the harness. Anyway, the right side clamp of course is not bolted to the stud on this throttle body! I know why, too. Laziness! This part of the harness should run OVER the water pipe that's under the coolant tank (part 38 in this diagram... http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=1464). Well, the harness is UNDER it instead meaning the harness can't be lifted into the bracket as it should be. I guarantee they ran the harness and got a lot of stuff assembled before they realized the harness should be over the pipe. so rather than disassemble everything to get back to it, they simply left it lying on the motor.

Next weekend I intend to remove the coolant tank and re-thread this part of the harness as it should be.

Awful quality of work!

--nick