I need pads and rotors, all 4

I would stay with stock if you're not taking it to a track. It's "too easy" to justify an upgrade even while the stock brakes really are up to the job, in my opinion. Going to bigger (usually heavier) discs has negative effects as do pads going in the direction of race pads.

Cost you can look up at various websites.

 

I am thinking when my car needs pads and rotors I will change to the cross drilled disc rotors and move up in pad grade.

I am also interested to hear if there are any well priced alternatives to OEM...

 

I saved this link from "bigheadeddennis" who said he got a very good deal on oem Brembo rotors for his 355 from this source http://www.interautoparts.com/ a few years ago.

Let us know what they charge for plain and crossdrilled.

 

Slotted will be better for your yearly run at the track! Drilling the disc introduces weakness . . . .

 

If the 355 brakes are anything like the 348 brakes then I'd replace them. I always hated the 348 brakes.

The AP racing kit is really good and it was made specifically for the 355. I have it on my 348 and a friend has it on his 355. Where the 348 brakes start fading after a few trackday laps, the AP's just keep going.

Costs £1,800 (UK) and the company are a pain in the ass to deal with, but it's a great piece of kit.

I originally changed pads to Ferodo DS2500, but didn't really notice much difference.

 

What is the application? street only, street and some track? streetable with lots of track? or track only? Street tires? R-compound tires? race slicks?

For street with lots of track driving on real street tires (not r-compounds) the stock rotors are just fine but you need a pad that deal with the heat. Ferrodo DS2500 was a great pad a few years ago I was getting 5 track weekends on a set of pads and 30 track days on a set of rotors. Had to be careful in the city to avoid a hard stop and the <whatever> that caused squeeks.

For R-compounds you will need another step into the hotter pad arena, but for slicks, you really need to add air ducts to the rear rotors, bigger rotors, and bigger calipers.

 

Agreed, but I am not aware of any slotted discs avalable to suit the 355?

Are you coming on Sunday? (Fun run)

 

There are a number of manufacturers that make slotted and/or cross-drilled rotors for the F355. The Girodisc rotors that Daniel sells through Ricambi are fantastic.

In addition, here's some links that sells both front and rear slotted and cross-drilled rotors (no where near the quality of Girodisc)

LINK: http://www.autocarparts.com/c_Ferrari_c_Brakes_Rotors_m_PowerSlot/

http://www.brakeworld.com/catalog.asp?page_id=items&catid=1

 

I can only compare 355 brakes to my nsx but I thought the 355 brakes were significantly better under braking.

As far as brake set ups...

I think stainless steal lines, good brake fluid and a great pad add a world of different.

As far as rotors go, I have always been lead to believe that slotted are the way to go. Drilled unless drilled from the cast plates are weaker and tend to spider crack/brake more. Slotted will breathe more. Drilled are for looks. Regular plates actually are great but slotted will breathe more and allow for more cooling off.

 

Thanks Scott....show how much effort I've put in to looking for brake upgrade gear.....

I agree David, I saw the most benefit on my race cars from braided brake lines replacing all the rubber lines in the system, good fluid and good pads. I have always thought the slots or cross drilling was to remove pad glazing? I can see cooling as a side effect but is cooling the primary reason?

I enjoy learning....

 

It's my understanding that internally slotted (vented) discs are what provide cooling and not slotted or cross-drilled. Slotted can help take off glaze and both slotted and cross-drilled can help eliminate a gas build-up, between the pad and the disc, which can act as a lubricant. Slotted and cross-drilled can add noise and vibration. Not a big factor for tracking/racing but it might be for street use.

Ferrari are well aware of what braking performance is needed for a given car they produce. Just about anything can be improved or "upgraded" but it's always a give and take compromise.

In any event the OP has not stated how he uses his car or even if he was satisfied or not with the braking performance provided with the original parts.

I certainly agree also with braided lines, good fluid (changed OFTEN) and good pads.

 

Getting very close to being back together but not quite. A few minor last minute hickups . . . next one for sure.

 

Gas builds up between the pad and the disc when hard braking. The slots allow this to escape. This is how all race car discs are done, with slots only. Lines and fluids will keep the fluid at the end of the line near the piston consistent and therefore they will last longer in higher temp operation, like tracking. The downside is slotted and raceier pads are noisier and in reality for the road were you are more likely to be using the brakes occasionally the standard setup is fine, and I have never wanted for better brakes.

Someone told me that the drilled rotors are better in wet conditions, as they allow the water to condense into steam and not affect the braking performance. The probem is, when you use these hard they are weaker as the disc is drilled and tend to crack more. Again, not an issue on the street i think but on the track a nono.

Its really a situation where you need to work out what you are doing with your car, and sorting it to suit the use.

I will be leaving mine stock as its a great road car, but no race car . . .

 

Thanks mate. Based on that info I will be leaving the 355 in stock form as I agree with you, it has never left me wanting for brakes. But I have another car (wrx) that I might try some slotted rotors on as the factory brakes give up after a few laps...

 

My teammate Simon has a wrx v10 spec c. Let me know I can definitly tell you how to make that stop.

 

Could you post some pics about the AP Racing big brake kit?

Thanks.