Lookin' for distributor cap(s)!!!

www.allferrariparts.com has a reasonable Marelli TR cap IMO for ~$120 each (no cylinder number labels and the setscrew points are a little different, but looks like they came out of the same molds as the original parts -- same parting lines, gates, etc.).

 

Steve's advice for the source (allferrariparts) has the lowest price. I could not find anything for a lower price.

Now about the reasons to why did your distributor burn. It appears, that whoever designed this device in Magneti Marelli almost 30 years ago worked with wires that had a solid metalic core or twisted stand core. That chap could not forsee the emergence of new types of wires with composite materials in their core (i.e., with wound filament around the hyperconductive core) and that piercing those materials with a pin screw can damage it to the ppoint that raises resistance at the contact area dramatically (or even looses the direct contact alltogether). I tried to install the Magnecor and Helicore 8 mm hyperconductive wires (needed to shave the tips a little to push those through the holes) and had to test every piercing step by measuring resistance of the whole wire while crewing in the contact pin (had to use a small aligator clamp on a small flat screwdriver). Sometime it took 3 times (cutting the pierced part off ~ 5 mm) and refitting it again untill I got a stable contact with the pin screwed all the way in. That conection is rapidly destabilizing due to engine vibrations and may create a local spark inside the junction with the wire, which can melt the point. Using the technique described above you will significantly decrease the likelihood of such kind of damage happening again.
My ignition works really well now with maximum resistance in longest wires of 1200-1300 ohms (picture attached).
Cheers.
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Dear Ferraristi,

...wasn't there an issue with the aftermarket caps?

....I remember something about not having the vent holes drilled in them causing them to trap moisture in them.

....something like that.


There's an old thread on TR dist. caps. I think the conclusion was to stay OEM.

Steve M....I remember you posting quite a bit in that thread.....can you shed some light on the viability of the aftermarket cap?


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

I don't recall any physical differences in the cap main body (e.g., missing vent holes). As I stated in my prior message, I examined both fairly closely (parting lines & gate locations) and would swear that either they came out of the exact same mold or the molds have identical designs. I do think the OEM contact screws are a little bit better design (for the stock F spark plug wire) -- they have a small diameter cylindrical pointed tip that pierces the wire; whereas, the allferrariparts screws have a conical tip that sort of mashes into the wire.
I made my own number labels, and haven't had any trouble with the allferrariparts caps in the 3~4 years that I've been using them.

 

did you get the caps from allferrariparts? i call today for a set and dennis gave me a price of $ 150.00 per cap.

 

Dear Ferraristi,

Ah...OK then.

Relax Kerry, I honestly thought I remembered some problems from a TR Dist. cap thread where Steve M posted the pictures. There was much discussion about it.

I figured it was a worthwhile post to make.....it really wasn't at you. If there was a problem, it should be brought to the boards attention....decisions can be weighed and balanced.

If it was at you, I would have posted in the door trim thread after the pictures you posted. But, that horsie has been beaten to death.


BTW, the girls hangin' at the XYZ lounge are older than 24.....they don't count.



Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

kerry what part no did you use?

 

I didn't see any mention of rotors. I thought it was standard practice to run new caps with new rotors or you are risking premature burn on the new contacts in the caps.

 

....maybe Kerry can make some from safety pins and some duct tape. No wasted money for the dreaded "OEM" there !


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

I installed new rotors when I installed the new caps. Don't have any experience with the trouble you mention when mixing old & new caps and rotors, but that's because I've never done that. For me, (even stupidly priced F ) rotors are low $ compared to my time/hassle -- so if I'm going to spend the time/hassle doing the project, I usually opt to replace the usually-replaced components.

 

...don't forget to mention the carbon brush (center button )



Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice !

 

.
The rule old thumb was always to run new "sets" of everything.

Personally I wouldn't mix old with new but it WOULD be cool if a rotor had an adjustable tip that could be redressed and re-gapped for optimum life.

Actually, it would be nice not to have distributors at all and just run direct fire with a crank trigger.

Ah, harkening back to the days of dual point distributors , distributor machines and a selection of counter weight springs to change the advance curves........................................what fun.

 

Those new caps better have NEW buttons in them.

 

Originally Posted by Shamile View Post
Dear Ferraristi,

...wasn't there an issue with the aftermarket caps?

....I remember something about not having the vent holes drilled in them causing them to trap moisture in them.

....something like that

I think this aftermarket caps not having a vent holes was for the Diablo issue.

Jr

 

I bought the caps from ALLFERRARIPARTS and they were $120 each

 

I too have those caps and have been running them for 3 years and over 10k without issue.

 

Ditto, got gaskets too. Love this forum!

 

Kerry, IMO those cork gaskets - are rubbish, as they quickly fall appart. They are the coulprit of moisture penetration, condensation, and all that follows... Also, I dont get it: why to drill "ventilation" holes in these caps? This kind'a cancels the gasket function! I have developed my own gasket from gasket material availble from AutoZone (see attached picture). I have developed a PowePoint slide, which you can print directly onto the gasket material using a conventional bubble-jet printer (just set the printer to a thicker paper mode). Then, you just have to cut those gaskets out by hand (no big deal); you can use conventional hole punchers for those holes. The main advantage is that this material does not get the moisture through, especially, when covered on both sides with a thin layer of silicon-based grease (also helps the gasket to stay in place while you are placing the cap. Try it and you will never use those gaskets made out of cork again...

Another critical component to remember to change is that black protective cup inside the distributor (if you had this part it in your engine type). It is number 46 on the attached ignition diagram. That plastic becomes very brittle with time and is most likely damaged judging from the status of your distributor cap (from the picture). I have replaced it, because mine was cracked on one side...

Juri Gelovani
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