Frrrrrrp!

All I wanted was a cheeseburger and some fries!
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Ack! ><

That looks like some time and effort to correct. 8(

 

WTF happened???

 

Aye!

Did they just pull out when opened the door at Macca's?

 

It was 75 degrees and sunny here today, so I decided to take her out for a spin at lunchtime. Why not, right? Well, after I couldn't get either window to roll down with the driver's door switches, I began poking around. When I disconnected the plug at the door jamb and pulled back the boot, there was actually only 1 broken wire, but when I tried to see which pin it had dislodged from, 3 more came free. Ugh...

 

Lol, aye!! What a bummer!

 

At least now I have something to do on Saturday, instead of just driving around aimlessly...

 

Disconnect your battery while you are repairing those wires, unless you want to replace some fuses!

 

Lol, I will driving my 348 around aimlessly in a few hours.

I will be sure to think of you mate!

+1!

 

Doesn't look like too hard of a fix---Good luck...

 

It's been a while since this problem was discussed.

Probably every 348 will get this after enough open/close door cycles.

If you're good with a soldering iron and can get the pins out of the plug without wrecking them it's a good DIY project.

If you have to pay someone to do it it will be expensive because it will take some time to get it right.

A new cable is about $1000 (I'm thinkin', "homey don't pay dat")
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Ouch - $1,000 just for a bit of cable?!

 

Passenger or drivers side?
I have a new one in the box for sale if its the passenger side ($495.00). PM me if you want it. The OEM price is about $900.00

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=2809

--Mike

 

Its ****en ridiculous alright.

But thats nothing...............in the Mining game we *have* to buy genuine wiring harness for our machines in some circumstances. The most expensive in recent memory was AU $7000 for a wiring harness that contained 40 wires, was 2 metres long and had 2 'special' plugs at either end.

They normally have deutsch connectors which are re-usable. This allows us to make our own harnesses which saves thousands of dollars.

But when they want to be ****s, they make a different end on the harness which is sealed up so you *have* to buy the genuine harness and you pay through the nose for it.

I would do what Jeff did in his repair thread. I would just hardwire the lot and get rid of that plug. When it happens to me, thats what I will be doing.

 

Those look like the same style of connector as the the fuel injector rail (round connector) uses. If that is the case, get in touch with Dave Helms - he has the correct tools for terminal removal, crimping and replacement terminals.

 

That's crazy PAP!

Is there any reason Ferrari made it a plug and not a hard-wire in the first place? Or is there no disadvantage to hard-wiring them?

All the best,
Andrew.

 

Tell me about it.

Id tell ya the prices of other parts in the Mining bizz but you would **** yourself.

Well, its easier to remove the door when you can just disconnect a plug.

Thats the main reason they put plugs/connectors on anything.

I had my old Ford Fairlane repainted in late 2000. It doesnt have a connector going into the doors for the power windows/locks. The paintshop just cut clean through the wiring. It was all they could do they reckon.

When I got the car back, I had to re-wire the window/locks going into the door. Was an easy job because it only involved 6 wires. Was a "cut and shut".

It would be ideal to have NO plugs in any cars/trucks etc..etc. It would eliminate a lot of the electrical/corrosion problems that builds up in connects/plugs. But its just not possible to make one large/long wiring harness with no plugs/joins anywhere to fit into a car.

Wiring still gets 'green cancer' (corrosion), still not perfect but hardwiring is a lot better.

 

Definitely. Thanks!

I'm thinking a few hours on Saturday will do it. Hopefully not more than that, anyway...

Yep, $931 on Ricambi's website.

It's the driver's side.

Thanks - I'm thinking I like Pap's hard-wired Ford Fairlane idea...

 

Pretty common issue on the stuff I have worked on. I add about 3" of wire before I splice and resolder the harness. The other thing I do to is to put a single turn loop in the splice piece which allows the harness to flex removing the repetitive strain. Good luck its a pretty straightforward fix.

 

The correct tool for disassembly of the plug is:
AMP (TYCO electronics) #305183
The Socket contacts are #745-3 again by TYCO They're RoHS compliant! (whateverthehell that means)
With these tools, it's an easy job to rebuild it.
Check this website: www.waldom.com
They should be available there, or you can check your local electronics store. You'll spend about $28 or less.

 

RoHS = RESTRICTION OF HAZARDOUS SUBSTANCES.......it's what is being mandated in the manufacturing industry:

restricts the use of specific hazardous materials found in electrical and electronic products. All applicable products in the EU market after July 1, 2006 must pass RoHS compliance. For the complete directive, see Directive 2002/95/EC of the European Parliament.

 

Bruce, thanks for the info!

 

If I was in your place I would hard wire them all ....

 

I hear you but haven't decided which way to go yet. There are upsides and downsides to both...

 

Hardwire. Not a fun task, FWIW.