Major service on TR #76407

Very Nice my friend

 

Questions....
did you use sticky tape on the degree wheel? any issues without a 'solid', bolted connection?

What tool are you using to establish TDC (in the spark plug hole)?

how close were your OEM marks to your degreed cams?


Also...
no need to pull the cams if you R&R the seals.... these should be done before you degree the cams.


Thanks for sharing your experience!

Rgds,
Vincenzo

 

I pulled off the crank pulley and harmonic balancer to attach a degree wheel, these have to come off anyways to change the cam belts. The harmonic balancer bolt is 36mm I believe...once that is off, the balancer usually just pulls off by hand - no biggie.

 

portogts...looks like you took the engine off the tranny , how long (hrs) did it take to do that ?

Did you see anything interesting in the tranny ? Diff ?

Thanks for sharing ?

 

Dear Ferraristi,

Wow.....great stuff !


Thanks for posting your work....very nice !

On the Silent bloc from Verrel....you need two. One is on the shifter side.....I changed both to Verrel's Delrin bushings.

BTW,

don't forget to change the fuel tank vapor lines....they get very brittle with age. You'll never have the space to work on them like you do now.


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

Shamile:
What exactly is a "silent bloc" and what does it silently do?

 

Yes, double sided tape. No issues, you just need to make sure the wheel is as centered as possible. I've done it before on my 328

Custom made tool Long enough to stick out of spark plug hole with a center pointer that rests against the piston. The comparator does the rest. We've double checked using the piston-stop method.
The OEM mark was spot on!

Thanks! You mean that we can remove the cam sprocket and the seals without removing the cams? I've always removed the cams on my 328 to do this ...

 

Dear Ferraristi,

Any help I can be....just holler !

I'll trade....you help me do a major / valve adj. / dial in cams, and I'll do your clutch.....I'll even throw in Jen.

The "silent bloc" is a double metal walled rubber bushing. It goes on the shift shaft on both ends. One at the shifter column and the other at the engine shift rod.

The name "silent bloc" is that the rubber is stiff to ensure proper and precise shifting while dampening out transmission and gear noise into the cabin.

The problem is that the bushings wear out over time ( oil from the engine hastens deterioration) and leads to very sloppy shifting.

In my case, the silent bloc on the engine side was so bad, I could not engage 2nd or 4th gears at all.

Once I changed the silent bloc (2) to Verrell's bloc ( machined Delrin ), the car shifted very precisely. The shifter is more mechanical as there is not the "smoothness" of the rubber to soak up twist of the shift column. There is much more transmission and gear noise because there is full mechanical linkage between the engine and shift column. It's not bad but more noticable....more than a fair trade-off for better shifting.

I still think I can get better shifting by tweaking the turnbuckle adj. again. I just don't feel like "going back in" since I've only recently had the car permanently back on the road.


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

It worked like that on my 1990... never needed to pull the cams.

I think(?) however, that the cams need to be pulled to retorque the heads. Next time I plan to torque the heads.....

You can use a stiff card (like a business card - but 3x5, cut back to suit the cam OD) to ensure that the seal goes over the cams in a distortion free manner.


If you retorque the heads - I'd love to see how its done...

Rgds,
Vincenzo

 

Thanks Vitor...i thought you took the engine off the tranny....looks wonderful, cant wait to see your final pics once its back in.

 

ooo man, thats gonna look nice once your done...so you did take the engine and tranny off the frame...Sweet...what are yoru plans with that ?
How long did it take you to take the engine and tranny off the frame ? Was it complicated to pull off ? Do you ppan to repaint the subframe ? Someone did that here once and posted it many moons ago, it was truly stunning when he put ti back together, it look like a shinny diamond in a beautiful jewlery box.

 

Just a question about re-torqueing the heads? I thought that these engines from about this vintage gained nothing but trouble when redoing torque settings for the heads. Something to do with them being done ex factory should be good till complete rebuild and the vagrancies of old bolts and corrosion etc making it impossible to ensure an even torque no matter what the wrench says?
What do others think?

 

Good job with the work and photos.....wow!

Ski

 

Wow Porto you are going to have nothing left to remove soon.

What are the parts shown by the yellow arrow?


P
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I see you took the cam belt tensioner apart. These are preset at the factory to a specific tension load, and normally do not require any adjustments, etc. When you reassembled it...how did you know how much "preset load" to dial in?