Are you taking any steps to prevent warping the heads during welding; bolting in the old cams, bolting to a flat plate, etc? Congrats on getting your cams!
Scared wondering if I screwed anything up actually. I got more scared when I noticed the jounal on of the 2 cams not centered in the bearing area of the head, but after checking everything my cams are exactly the same as ferrari's and their cams look exactly the same as mine sitting in the head. It's all good. I think the cams are good and I can put a check on the complete list and pack them away.
Very nice. Not knowing too much about the liners in your engine, I am unsure what type of piston ring pack might be best. Are the liners the same as 308? Going with chrome/steel, moly, gas nitrited? The possiblities are seemingly endless. I wonder what the factory used when new.
Hmm .a question about rings took me a bit off guard and I have to admit that Ive given it no thought what so ever. The liner blanks came from Darton and are cast iron but I have not turned them into actual usable cylinders yet, that is on the list of high labor low dollar tasks maybe after I finish the heads.
No...I'm just assuming I'll need to true everything when I'm done. I probably should be taking some kind of action but it's hard enough work in the ports when i can flip th eheads anyway I like, I can't imagine working with the head clamped down.
I think we should all spring for an Aluminium Forge. This way when your done you can cast molds of the parts and and build up some engines for all us 308 owners.... Wow the stuff you could make with a forge, there has to be some old high school trying to sell one. I 'm only joking but now the gears are turning again....ha
No need to go to the Honda dealer tomorrow….I discovered the spring kit I was considering was not a shim under design. Going back through the parts books it looks like what I want is a spring kit for a Suzuki gsxr1300 Haybusa. These will run about $100/cylinder for springs, Ti retainers, keepers, lower collars, not too too bad considering. The spring kit is good for .445” valve lift…..a full .0015” more than I need with lash set This is kind of funny because if you look way back in the thread I was originally planning to use TBs off this same bike.
That's 144 hp/liter. I'm going to be about 146 they should be kicking my butt because I'm stopping at 9000 and they are good to go to 11K I would assume......they need to do a bit my work on the heads and maybe some monster cams. edit: I see it says at over 10k...that makes me think stroker crank and 3.0 liter dropping their number to 126...sad really
The top part on 4 ports of head 2 done, hopefully I can finish it tomorrow morning. I warned you guys you'd be in for a lot of the same type pics. I got looking at the cam card Web sent wiht my cams.....I really don't understand the lash recomendations they made.....I suspect they are somewhat generic. I may call and ask before I just go with the number I came up with off the profile graphs which seem like they have to be right and the sim software really liked. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Im using straight argon. Its not as much fill as it looks like. I set the fill plate a tad low and then build up the surface because I find it VERY difficult to get decent penetration when Im working at weird angles. By setting the plate low I know for sure there is decent bead of weld around the edges and I wont have leaks and probably wont get cracks later. On a bigger fill piece I would just bent the outside 3/8 or so down but on parts this size that is the whole part.
I switch from straight argon to a 75/25 argon/helium mix. I was repairing a Weld Wheel and ran out of shielding gas. The mix made welding like a dream. Now I use it exclusively on aluminum. Thanks for all your extra time spent on pictures and text. Greatly appreciated. Tom...
I've never tried any He in the mix but you are not the first person who's suggested I do. The thing that's kept me form it is it means buying or leasing a second tank and I'm cheap. I may call the welding shop and inquire at least. On a cam related note. I send the pic to a bubby who responde by asking if I was going to have to cleanance the deck lid for those monster lobes. I thought that was pretty funny....and went straight to the shop to see if the cam covers fit over them. No problem.
I've been pretty sick this week so progress has been pretty slow but tonight I finish closing up the oil galley holes on the second head. I think the next step will be to clean up the top of the ports a bit to help me keep some kind of reference. I blued it and will layout the shape of the test port then give it a quick grind to shape.....but I didn't feel like getting all covered with aluminum shards tonight so that will keep for another day. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mark, It's looking good. Hope you feel better soon. I somehow manage to get metal chips into the bed last night. Not good. Wil
Lana would KILL me! When I'm going to be grinding I've started wearing a tyvek jump suit. They had them for the clean room at my old work.....and seeing them made me realize they would perfect for grinding days to be sure the metal chips stay out of my cloths....the little die grinder chips get everywhere, end up in the washing machine and into other cloths, horrible. The jump suits solved the problem almost completely and they are pretty cheap.
I made a little template of the top port shape and scribed the blueing then started grinding. I got 3 done befroe little one decided it was time to go upstairs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The port tops are all rough ground. Now to figure out what comes next.....I'm thinking fix the holes in the water jackets down by the seats now while the ports are big then the the last step will be weld filler plates to the bottoms on the ports to raise the bottoms to match the tops. After that I can get going on the porting I guess. Image Unavailable, Please Login
