Vignale spyder #504 restoration

Thanks Don. If you look closely, the lub plaque on that spyder is the larger later style embossed plate with the green background. I believe the plaque on my car was only used on cars built in 1959 and earlier. That means I should be looking at coupes and not spyders.

Ivan

 

Mike,

The brake booster (aka: servo) rebuilt kit is Girling SP2228. Look at ebay auction 350320132863; $85 (including shipping) seems like a very good price for this kit. It appears this kit might be a reproduction. Auction 310200536716 has the genuine Girling kit for $160.

This booster was used on virtually every Maserati GT cars in the 1960's ... from the 3500GT thru the early Ghibli. They were also used on the early Lamborghini, a Triumph, and the Alfa 2600. I think even the Volvo P1800 uses this booster.

As you discovered on your Mexico these things do fail and are not the easiest to rebuild.

I do not know the part number for the e-type clutch hose, but any Jaguar parts distributor (Welsh Enterprise, XKs Unlimited, SNG Barratt) will have it in stock. I happen to have one in my parts stock but if I only had to buy one, going to MIE and including it in a list of other stuff would be easier. Hunting and matching parts is very time consuming.

Ivan

 

Does anyone recognize this windshield washer pump? I am familiar with the foot operated washer pumps but this one is new to me. Perhaps it was also used on the very early 3500GT coupes.

The pump is labeled BREV FOREDIT on the back. The rubber boot (which is now deteriorated) was crimped over a plastic backing. Based on the construction of the pump I bet it was used on a mass produced car ... perhaps an Alfa or Fiat of that era. Any ideas where this was also used?

Ivan
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Gene,

Thanks for the tip! I called Power Brake Exchange and the price is now $268, which I think is still very reasonable. They seem to know these boosters well and claim to have manufactured the parts to fix them. Also they bench test the units; which is hard to do if I am rebuilding it myself.

I am going to wait until I get much closer to needed a working booster as having it rebuilt now and putting it in storage would not be a good thing.

Ivan

 

Mark,

Please let us know of your experiences with Power Brake Exchange, after they are done.

The fluid reservoir is typically a bag held by two hooks. The distance between the two mounting holes on my bag is 120mm. My bag is labeled FOREDIT (which matches the pump), but I have also seen Cavis bags and their might be other manufacturers. Pull out your washer pump and see who made it. These bags were used on Fiats and Alfas of that era. Finding one should not be too difficult.

Ivan
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It is time to remove the front suspension and steering. I must admit this is one area which I do not find much fun. The parts are always very dirty, tons of brute force are needed to separate tie rods and link ends, and removal of the front springs is a bit nerve racking.

To remove the springs the shocks first need to come out and sway bar disconnected. An internal spring compressor is used to remove the spring load. Once you are sure the spring is no longer under tension (you should be able to freely move the lower arm up and down a little) then remove the 6 bolts holding the lower plate. The spring, plate and spring compressor comes out as one unit. In one photo you see these three pieces still compressed next to an uncompressed spring. I have seen people remove (or try to install!) a spring using just a floor jack. This spring is under a lot of tension and if it comes flying out ... well .... let me just say it might ruin your day.

Ivan
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The hard labor of removing the front and rear suspension is now completed. The suspension parts have 50 years of dirt and grease. I have worked on many dirty cars but this one is worst than most.

Ivan
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Pete,

You were very, very lucky the spring did not hit you !

Ivan

 

With all the brake, steering and suspension components out of the way the next step is the nasty job of cleaning the undercarriage. It is time to put on overalls, gloves, goggles and a shower cap. I do not want to scare any little children that might be reading this thread therefore I will spare you with that photo. Just think of an alien monster from a very cheap 1950's sci-fi movie ...

The undercarriage is very dirty but otherwise in great shape.

Ivan
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Pete,

Very good suggestion! Last thing I need is the car falling on my head.

Ivan

 

Mike,

After cleaning the undercarriage and removing much of the undercoating I plan to use the Eastwood family of products. Start with rust converter, followed with rust encapsulator and finally their Extreme Chassis black. Of course what will actually happen I won't know until I do it.

The loose parts will be either powder coated or parkerized. I will take photos and post my experiences on this thread.

Ivan

 

Alberto,

I do think you are correct ... all the grime and oil has served as a protective coating through the years. This car was super nasty in the engine compartment and undercarriage. The first thing I did months ago was pressure washed the car and it is still very dirty.

My plan is to spray a degreaser (Purple Power) and again use to the pressure washer to remove as much as I can. I hate doing this inside my garage as grease and dirt flies all over the place ... walls, ceilings, tools, my face, my hair, etc. Whatever remains will have to come out with a wire brush, a scraper and a heat gun. Their is nothing glamorous about cleaning an undercarriage.

Ivan

 

Walter,

Be careful what you ask for ...

Ivan