John: congratulations, superb work as usual! Your work and that which "Dougieboxer" is having done on his Khamsin will also have a very positive side effect: they will motivate others to do the same. I am very sorry that the hydraulic company near Paris was not suitable to your needs: when you have a chance you might want to share the contact information for the company you are using in the UK. I am going to Essen and am hoping to meet as many Khamsinistas as possible! I already have three meet and greet planned! I will be there from the 7th late afternoon (after driving 800kms) all day on the 8th and may be part of the morning on the 9th (it will be a VERY special occasion for me but this is not a Khamsin matter). Any of you who are attending please let me know I look forward to meeting you: send me a PM or an email and we can exchange cell phone numbers. I am meeting at the show with someone who is providing me with fantastic Khamsin photos for the book best regards, Marc
JOHN'S WORK/ESSEN TECNO CLASSICA Looks fabulious with all those freshly plated parts. I did the same with my car and they will last amost idefinately in this condition if you paint the parts with clear marine product called TECTIL 151 by Valvoline. You cannot see the paint and it seals and activates the passiphation of the Cad plated parts. Other comments if I may add from my own experience see pictures. The body on the Khamsin will crack at the bottom courners of the rear window I tried unsuccessfully to stop it. While the car is in bare metal tackle it now with a wide gusset inderneath The Rear cradle cracks so have a look as I have seen three cars so far with this problem. The frount Steering support cracks I made a new one out of a thicker material and put two return edges on it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Only one word describes what you are doing John and that word is 'Beautiful'. You will have one solid car at the end of your quest. I take it you are going to use Pleiades for the LHm work. I've just found their new contact details as I have made arrangements for my own car to have the main components rebuilt to cure my lack of pressure. Had to search on French car forums to get the details but McGraths in the UK also sent a reply to my email shortly after. Details if anyone ever needs them are: Pleiades Unit 12A Brookside Industrial Estate Sawtry Cambridgeshire PE28 5SB UK +44 1487831239 Had my car out today as it was booked in for it's annual MOT test. It was as sunny morning and the car whilst running rich according to the test sounded like a beast uncaged. Now that the test has been completed and I can use the car on the roads for another year, I can have the garage I've selected do a few jobs on it so that I may be able to use her a little more this summer, and who know's I may make it to the Maserati summer meet at Stanford Hall for the first time. Keep the pictures coming as they keep all of us in the zone when it comes to our own cars as Marc says. Bal
Hi Guys Just an update on what has been happening. I gave my car down to colin Clarke of Colin Clarke Engineering to do my engine rebuild. Engine out of car and been stripped down. As expected both head gaskets had gone and had been weepeing for some time as there was some light corrosion in two bores. The plan is to fit oversized pistons 94.5 and to bore out the liners to accomodate which should remove the corrosion and hence not replace the liners. My car ahd done 40,000 miles approx. The bearing and shells were acceptable but down at a lower limit of wear so are replacing these. Otherwise the engine appeared to be in good condition and the top end was fine Sent all the LHM kit for a refurb. Someone had replaced the clutch recently although there was no trace of this in the cars history. It was the Ex Maserati UK Heritage car and there appears to be quite a lot of work done whcih isn't documented. The front discs were badly worn and have replaced front and rear although due to scarcity and price will have these skimmed and kept aside as spares/sale in case anyone needs them So far it has been as expected!! I was surprised at how good the engine was as I was expecting more problems as I know the car sat around for long periods whilst in the heritage collection and such treatment is usually a kiss of death to most cars I have already put new stainless system on it and done other minor work When I get her back there are a few minor paint repairs to do. the car was completley resrayed a few years back and had minor bits done since then although not done very well IMO. Also going to recover the front seats as seats were 'painted' and drivers side looks quite worn. If I could remove the 'paint' and properly recolur I may do that as I dont mind creases in leather! Could some one explain to me in idiot speak preferably with a drawing about resealing the rear? I read prevous posts and don't follow them! My mates all tease me about the car as being the one which gives me carbon monoxide poisoning! Paul xx
A few other things I have noted but forgot to mention When I put the new stereo in we had to rmove and cu the centre dash. All the white hydraulic pipes to operate the air flap for the freash air had been cut. Is this a common practice/ problem? Is there a source or replacememnt for the windscreen wiper stalk? Mine was broken with a new switch fitted for it? Someone fitted a blank off valve in the engine bay for the inside heater. There appears to be no leak from it? Any ideas why? I would have though if the cars overheated one would want the inside heater taking away excess heat? Paul
Hi Paul "Is there a source or replacememnt for the windscreen wiper stalk? Mine was broken with a new switch fitted for it?" This sadly is one of the most expensive to buy if you can find one, cheapest made made piece on a Khamsin. MIE had some for a while $1300.00USD They can actually be repaired. where has it broken and do you ave any of the parts? Picture will help. These break so easily due to people jumpung in the car and they catching them on clothing. Graeme
Hi It seems to have broken at the base/colum and I don't have the old part! I wondered if they were common to other old cars from Lancia or Fait from that time period? Paul
Speak to Verell (you'll find him in the 3X8 section), he has repaired many Ferrari column switches, he may be able to help you.
Hi thanks for that. I have sent an email to him after visiting his web site. Could someone post close up pics of the wiper stalk and the column where it goes in for me? I suspect it is very similar to that on the Ferrari 308 GT4. Has anyone tried a swap or adapting one? Paul
Its a generall problem. The car is heavy and the A-colums are quite thin. So the roof has problems to stiff the bottom of the car. Therefor the car is flexing a little causing some cracks on the bottom of the A-collums and on the rear. You don`t see it on your car? Don`t worry - it will come! Ciao! Walter
Hi Guys Have had a rply from Verrel who may be able to supply parts but needs photos of the colum and switch. Can anyone provide? Or a scematic or spec from a factory workshop manual? Anyone know the exact type? Any help appreciated and at least once a solution is found we have a source for parts! Paul
Could some one explain to me in idiot speak preferably with a drawing about resealing the rear? I read prevous posts and don't follow them! My mates all tease me about the car as being the one which gives me carbon monoxide poisoning! Paul xx[/QUOTE] Hi Paul Ill try. Simplest way to find the area, is to look at the rear of the car in between the exhaust pipes. you see what is the lower rear valance of the the body it has the cut out for the exhust pipes each side. foward of this is the rear cradle ( square tube)that houses the lower fuel tank. The inside of the rear valance curves back and up and continues up to what should be the rear deck floor but it doesnt. There is a gap. it is this gap that is the problem and it goes right across the back of the car. The second picture was taken above the right hand rear Muffler the gold bolt is the bumper mount bolt. if you look you can see black sealand and black rubber this is covering the gap. Does that help? Graeme Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Graeme/ John, I wonder if either of you could enlighten me on the removal of the lower fuel tank. Paul and I were discussing this and he thought that it may not come out easily and may foul the rear suspension etc. Basically can it come out without removing anything else ? I know there are two pipes on top, one at the bottom, and the sender connections but after removing the four bolts will it drop down cleanly? Thank you in advance for any advice you may have. Paul - I'll try to take a picture of the wiper stalk for you and send it. Bal
I've known about this problem for quite a few years. But when I bought an Espada which as you know was also designed by Gandini I discovered that it has the same exact problem. It's a bit different in that it also allows water and dusa to accumulate in the bottom of the rear quarter panels under where the two saddle style gas tanks reside. Bob S.
Hi thanks for this and will check mine. I assume the difficult part to seal is the parts under the sides of car where fuel tank and battery are on RHD cars? could only be done from underneath whereas the parts under rear window could be sealed from inside the car? I have checked out a wiper stalk from a 308GT4 and it is a three wand system so completley different to the two wand on the Khamsin Was it used on any other car? Dino 246? Fiat dino coupes? Anyone know the part number and manufacturer? Paul
Hello All... I have been remiss lately on posting here... My apologies... There is so much good info here that it is difficult for me to keep up... I am still looking at the underneath of my car figuring out what to do, but more on that in a different post... I believe the original manufacturer of the stalk switch groups was Vitaloni... Numbers may have been 70568 for left hand drive cars through 1973, 76201 after that... 68988 generally refers to the right hand drive cars from 1968 through 1980... Most of these switch groups haven't been manufactured since the mid 80's... I believe Vitaloni destroyed the tooling... Not sure this helps... Mike D.
Hi Mike that was very helpful indeed. I have been tracking a dino switch on ebay and that is vitaloni but different sides to RHD Khamsin. The part number is 745/C On the LHD khamsin on whihc side is the wiper stalk? Standing at the back of the car looking forward the left or right? On RHD the wiper is on the left side and lights and indicator on the right Paul
Hi Paul. If you let me know what you have or dont and what is remaining I may be able to repair it for you. I have rebuilt 4 quite successfully. Getting them out is more difficult than the repair. The whole switch gear is copper riveted together I put then back together with small nuts and bolts. The broken plastic can be glued an I do ther repair with piano wire pins and they are stronger than original. Graeme
Hi thanks for the kind offer. I don't have the missing wand as ithink it was broken some time ago. A switch was fitted under the dash to replace it but it is akward to operate. Will let you know Thanks again Paul xxx
Hi am having the engine rebuilt and tought you may like some pics of the engine as pulled apart. It has never been apart before. You can see where the water has got through the head gasket and stained the bores. A warning to all garage queens! What is amazing is I did 3000 miles in the car after i bought her and only at the end after my spirited 135mph (allegedly) 70 mile run did they finally give up although the car was still pulling strongly! Paul Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Paul, I responded to your post in the 308 GT4 thread, including some pix. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279934 Based on au-yt's post your switch is similar to a Maserati Indy switch I restored a few months ago. There's a good chance I can restore it.
Hi thanks for the offer of restoring the switch. The difficulty is removing and re installing and therefore leaving the car out of use for a while. I will discuss with the garage as to how quickly they could remove and and when the car will be ready from them. All this help greatly appreciate. My first choice would be to buy a new one and do a swap, leaving less down time with car I take it no one has one? Paul
Paul, Thanks for those pics; the size of those pots is certainly impressive compared to the size of the block casting. Your cooling system looks fairly clean, suggesting that the car had its' coolant rplaced regularly. It shows little deposit and corrosion, which leads me to the cause of the gasket failing. Is it adviseable to re-torque these heads from time to time?
Hi Paul I highly recommend having a Aluminium radiator made. The difference in cooling is really worth the dollars and piece of mind. Get a 50mm core (2x25 tube) and tanks in 3 mm and the bonus is they weigh 10 ponds against 30 for the copper one. Cheers Graeme
