I turned the key & my $$$ flashed before my eyes.......!!!!!

$100,000

There does that make anyone feel better?


Sorry but I am just not a hand wringer. I deal in facts and reality and the simple FACT here is that no one knows what is wrong and it is pointless to guess and throw dollar figures around at arm chair diagnosis that have been conducted from a thousand or more miles away.

I will say in my experience bad noises usually are less costly than when everything just goes quiet.

Terry will know soon enough. Until then I will just hope he wasted his time taking the motor out for so minor a fix.

 

well said!

Rgds,
Vincenzo

 

Might as well make it a million for the guy that has a flat bank account.

 

That would be one time when I wouldn't mind wasting all that time.

 

(laughing to myself, I know that one to be true!)

 

I like the way that sounds.....Now to wait and see...hopefully this weekend.

So far no signs of oil contamination from metals that I can see and no shredded belt material around the belt covers...

By the way Rifle, are you saying that there is a chain problem inherient or that by 87 it was addressed?

 

Goes by VIN.

If you had a chain problem you wouldn't have oil pressure.


Good luck this weekend.

 

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

+512

So, someone knows my training routine.

What he said.

 

Yeah that's what I figured..wishful thinking.Thanks for the encouragement!

 

KERRY ---

Have you given any thought to snooping around with a borescope before ripping the engine out & apart?

It won't tell you everything --- but, it's non-invasive, and it will tell you many, many major things.

 

At this point I'm way into the removal of the engine...just the subframe bolts are left to remove and the shock mounts............But ya know I have been needing to do an engine out for a couple of years. There has been a front crank seal leak for ever, Carguy addressed it twice and never really got it to seal, so hopefully the third time is the charm. I have all new hoses (water/vacumn/fuel/oil/air/etc.) for it on the shelf that I have be collecting that now can be put in place. I have a complete clutch set up waiting to be installed on the shelf. And then there is the new one piece carrier to put in place that has been on the shelf for almost a year now. I also have a complete set of valve adjustment shims NEW in the box to get the valves in spec (the ones that aren't bent.....LOL) along with new upgraded valve seals. This will give me a chance to get the Koni's either rebuilt or replaced with an upgrade (any suggestions?). And lastly this will give me the access and opportunity to glass bead and powder coat the subframe/suspension/etc. and get all fasteners upgraded and/or plated......in other words clean the place up and do some remodeling!!

It.

 

+1 Go for it

 

Kerry: Also remember there is an aluminium water line that feeds the heater core. It is on the pass side, in front of the cam belt cover. I missed it and bent it bigtime but was able to make a new one. Also you may need a cap to screw on the brake line...I think it is 10x1.0mm. Also take tons of pics of the front of the motor for all the cable and hose routing. We are all thinking good thoughts and hope for the best.

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86tr, 99 360 3-pedal

 

Kerry some tricks I picked up before my engine removal that might help:

Fit some fish tank airline hose to the end of the throttle cable long enough to run through to the firewall. Putting the cable back means just simply pulling on the airline. Simple.

Free off the fuel filler cap otherwise temperature fluctuations will force fuel out of one of the disconnected hoses and onto your garage floor. eek.

Place the gearbox in second gear before removing the selector shaft bolt. You DO NOT have to disconnect the selector shaft from the gear stick unless you are removing the tanks.

Use a brake nipple cover on the end of the brake line to stop it leaking after you disconnect the brake pipe.

Take loads of photos even if you know what things look like. When it goes back together it WILL look different and you will start to doubt yourself.


Hope this helps

P

 

All these great tips should be a engine out sticky!

 

Kerry, I've been following this thread biting my finger nails. I really feel for you and hope you are wasting your time with this engine tear down. I hate hearing misfortunes like this and wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy.

You mentioned in an earlier post that you've needed to do an engine out service for a couple of years. If you don't mind telling me how many kms and how long had it been since your last belt service. I'm somewhat due for mine and don't know if it's safe to delay another year?

 

I've been following this thread with great concern - and I hope that whatever has happened to this TR is minor. Since I have been mentioned a couple of times in this thread, I would like to clarify things a bit. I did indeed change the cam belts and tensioners on this car about 4-5 years ago. I bought belts from Ricambi and used genuine SKF tensioner bearings, all by the book. I had one persistant problem....the oil leak at the front main seal (Kerry mentioned this about 6 postings previous). The crankshaft had a very small knick or scratch in it, right where the rubber seal contacts the crankshaft snout. The first time I changed the seal, the leak stopped for about 3 days...then it came back but to a lesser degree than before. After a while I pulled the motor out again to address this oil leak. I polished the crankshaft snout but couldn't get it perfect...and prior to installing the new seal...I put a slightly stronger spring (tiny garter spring) into the seal lip to help it "hug" the crankshaft better. I also put new cam belts on again. The leak never did stop completely. If I let the car sit for a week or so...I would get a spot of oil about the size of a silver dollar on the floor. I decided to live with it...BUT...I would periodically check the cam belts for any oil film or other contamination. My RULE was that if at any time the belts showed traces of oil - I would immediately stop driving the car and do whatever was necessary to fix the leak. I don't recall how many miles I drove it after that...maybe 7k or 8k....and every time I checked the belts they were dry and clean. I recommended that this periodic inspection be continued when I sold the car. I'm hoping that this problem is trivial. But from Kerry's description it sounds like one cylinder bank jumped a few teeth....I hope not. I would definately check the cam belts for any oil film or other contamination...

 

Any updates Kerry?

 

Not yet..................mow lawn,,,,,kids suddenely come up for the weekend from NYC.........I need to get my TR back on the pavement,,,,,,,,,,,,I wll inform as the mystery reveals itself!!!

It

 

Be sure to drop me a PM when you get her running again and if you have the time we can go on a drive. I would really enjoy catching up with any other owners in this area.

 

Yes, yes and...................Yes!! You should stop by and see what complete and total rejection looks like!!..............LOL.

Me

 

Well.....................Now I won't be able to get to the engine out completed until Monday the 10th......wanna have my TR owning neighbor available to watch for any things I may have not disconnected as it comes apart........so the mystery continues.

Me

 

Pm me your phone number and I will stop by with a clean shirt with an extra absorbent shoulder pad.

 

Well here is the culprit..........probably sheared/tore off a tooth and then like dominos the other 6 followed..........In other words it appears the crank stopped rotating the cams on the DRIVERS side (I thought for sure it was the passenger side). Now I am wondering about putting a belt on, after re timing, then doing a compression check and see what it reveals before pulling the head.

By the way anyone have a used belt from a major to give up or loan me to do the "diagnostics"????? I would be very grateful and would return it ASAP.

See pix below for the up close and personal view of the belt as I found it sorta. I did rotate the cams a few degrees to see if indeed the teeth were all stripped away at their mating point on the crank.............If indeed the teeth just sheared away and the cams stopped rotating I can at this time see where 4 valves were open......what ever the hell that means...LOL!!

Top is looking at the belt from the bottom of the engine from the drivers side @ the crank.
Center is from the top of engine from drivers side @ the crank....Notice that there are a few teeth lounging about!!
Bottom are some of the teeth I found in the covers.

Enjoy!!

Kerry
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