1995 F355 Spider (2.7) I recently noticed that in heavy traffic, my temp gauge will hover around the center, 190 mark, and then climb to the 1 o'clock position, and slowly continue to climb if I don't start moving. The car never gets too hot or overheats, but it makes me nervous non the less. I checked my fan fuses and replaced all the relays. Swapped the Temp Switches in both radiators, and now I'm going to change the 2 Water Temp Sensors in the block on either side of the oil filter. I assume once I do this, I'm going to have to bleed the coolant system to make sure there are no air bubbles trapped in there. Can anyone tell me how to do this, post a pic, or link me to a thread on how this is done? I can't seem to find one with the search function.... I just want to be sure on what I'm doing before I proceed any further, Thanks in advance for all the help. You guys really don't know how many times this forum has helped me out Petey
If the 2 small hoses which are connected to the back of the coolant tank are OK (not blocked) it will bleed itself automatically.
I swapped those bleeder hoses with Dave Helms Silicon replacements. are you sure I don't have to do anything other then refill it after I replace the sensors??
This is what fixed mine after a summer of running hot. I also went through all of these steps. I had blocked tubes and a couple of bad sensors. I went ahead and replaced the fans as well, but those sensors made it all work perfect. My theory was that they get wet when it rains and it messed them up. Who knows. Also I didn't bleed mine after I did this. This was last summer and it still works perfect.
That's what I did after my major without any problem: Refill, warm the engine, monitor the gauge, let it cool, adjust the level, recheck the level after a few runs. There is a bleeding screw on the top of the thermostat housing but I didn't have to open it. Coolant level is stable and temperature is OK. I suggest you try the same provided you are sure that your fans and thermostat work OK. Nothing worse, if the temperauture increase, to have a doubt on several things: is it a fan? is it the thermostat? is it a bleed problem?
You guys rock! Thanks so much for all the help! I don't know what I would do without you guys! I will keep you posted on the outcome after I swap those sensors tonight
Nothing to do with the coolant, check out the fuse under passenger foot well, your fuse for the radiator fan is blown I bet!
I missed that, sorry. But are you sure the fan is running? Your car is a 95' maybe it's time for a new radiator fan.
100% certain. Both fans cycle, althought they should stay on longer then they do. The LH fan cycles on for about 10 seconds and then turns off... which Im attributing to the temp sensors in the block, as all the other sensors have been changed, relays and fuses upgraded and bleeder hoses replaced with silicone.
Well, I swapped both sensors yesterday, which wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it was going to be.. took me about 15 minutes, and I only lost about half a gallon of coolant. I refilled the coolant and will take the car for a test drive tonight to see if the fans cycle properly now. Thanks again for all the help guys Petey
Not to ask a daft question, but have you shone a torch in and had a look at the physical condition of the radiators?
Yea They are not in "Great" condition, but they have plenty of flow through the core. Do you think changing the radiators would make a huge difference?
Well, I had a similar problem. I had plenty of 'flow' through them, but on closer inspection, nearly all the fins had corroded and fallen out, so there was airflow through the rad but very little cooling. I pulled the radiator out, had it re-cored and stuck it back in. Never had a cooling problem since. http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=63&t=714494&i=20&mid=&nmt= If you've swapped the fuses and the fans are working, that's where I'd be looking next. If the rads are all OK, then it may be an air lock (although I doubt it), a stuffed water pump or a blockage, or possibly even a dicky thermostat.
Well, all this work and I'm still having the same issue... Car reaches 190 +/- and the LH Radiator Fan kicks on for 10 seconds and then cycles off, but now the RH Radiator Fan is not coming on AT ALL! I checked the fuses again, changed the relays just to be safe, made sure the fan actually works and it does. Not only that, but now when I turn the AC on, the left fan doesnt stay on, it still just cycles on and off. I don't know what else to do.. I'm just going to take it into the shop tomorrow morning and see if they can figure it out. sux...
Could be a number of things....I would check for power to the right side fan first. If there is no power coming to it when the temp is over 190 or 200, I would suspect either the motronic coolant temp sensor (which the OP says he replaced) or there may be a problem with the fuse panel. If there is power, then bad radiator fans, as mentioned previously.
