328 steering column play?

Rob, can you duplicate the play by moving it with your hands or only when you hit bumps?

 

That mpg must make the Prius owners upset. Now you can laugh at them as you pass the gas pumps.

 

I had heard that Ferrari was introducing a hybrid, but wasn't aware that it had actually been rolled out onto showroom floors yet. Cool!

 

Mine moves up and down quite a bit. I removed the column three times last month (ALWAYS mark the splines before removal ) to repair my ignition switch and could not find any issues with the mounting brackets or bearings. I guess the movement is by design.

 

Mine also moves slightly. The more severe the bump, the more the movement, but it doesn't seem to be excessive. I have also checked the column and all seems good, so it must just be the nature of the beast. FYI, even my suburban's steering wheel moves slightly when hitting bumps.

 

65 MPG is awsome...
...can't be a hybrid...must be fuel cell supported!

BTW, if this "play" just "showed up" after a lot of normal driving, I would jack her up and inspect all around. Otherwise, the road on which you are driving may be different than you were used to (road work, holes, etc) and just emphasized your experience; or you may have a smoother daily driver than before, creating a psychological change.

Vibration implies wheel balance or misalignment, assuming the suspension and steering is in good order.

Rob

 

Ok, Rob.

Here's a nice generalized process that can help all drivers:

NOTE: bumps, wobbles, noises and skips can be caused by any combination of the front steering and suspension systems (brake problems can create trouble, but only when they are used: troubleshooting the brakes is a different process, but should be considered if necessary).

(BTW, this is a 12-Step program:
Rob: "Hello, I'm Rob, and I'm a Ferrari addict."
sympathetic audience: "Hello Rob." )

1. check tire pressures; be sure they are equal to within 1psig. If the are high in range, then reduce to lower within recommended range (this will soften the ride); test drive on same road. On my Lexus, I have noticed a "wobble" that fixes if my tires are properly inflated. Also, if you have two different tires (brand and/or age), this could easily be a contributer to imbalance.

2. while on a smooth surface (garage floor), turn the front wheels with the steering wheel to check # of turns lock-to-lock; should be just over 3 turns (3.25 IAW the 328 tech manual). While turning, feel for skips in the rack and pinion, revealing wear there.

3. check shocks for proper response: push down on fender and release quickly: the car should return to baseline lever with no more than one overshoot (ideally, it should return to steady with no observable change in direction, but one direction change is still good...if it bounces, it's bad...needs new shocks).

4. inspect/torque the steering wheel linkage and u-joints individually; if any play there, tighten and/or replace (this is the least likely problem, but the easiest to inspect).

5. loosen the front wheel lug nuts a little and jack up the front of the car; ideally, I would run the rear wheels on some ramps and jack the front with jack stands under the frame...keeps the car level which will be more stable. Even better, use a lift. (BE CAREFUL!!!disclaimer courtesy of an unrealistic PC society; on other words, if you are stupid, don't try this at home)

6. push/pull/tilt each wheel holding vertically (hold top and bottom of tire); any play reveals undesired ball joint wear. You will need to inspect the suspension.

7. push/pull/tilt each wheel horizontally; it will move, but you should sense resistance; a steering rack, being fully geared should not feel loose. Play/slack here would dictate firther visual inspection.

8. roll each wheel; look for jumps and listen for noise; either may signify bearing problems. The more precise check would be to measure runout on the wheel edges and/or the rotors (I need a reference here, you FChat gods). If the brakes grab or rub, check out the braking system.

9. if you feel you need to visually inspect, remove wheels (you did loosen the lug nuts, right???...thighs and a breaker bar for you then!) and inspect (while deep-cleaning; you will be surprised how much you find while cleaning. I use 409 and WD40 with old rags...409 turns purple with oily stuff...quite cool feedback for cleaning; after cleaning all, I clean the brakes with spray brake cleaner). If you see torn boots, grease, etc, you should consider a rebuild. You can also check the torques here...just be careful...high values on some components (disclaimer courtesy of an unrealistic PC society; on other words, if you are stupid, don't try this at home).

10. if you believe all is intact then take to an alignment shop and have aligned and balanced. The shop will give you "free" feedback if they see any problems (you just tell them that you will do the work...if you're not stupid, of course; disclaimer provided by unrealistic PC society).

11. if you end up replacing any suspension or steering component, take the car to an alignment shop: have aligned and balanced. The shop will give you "free" feedback if they see any problems (you just tell them that you will do the work...if you're not stupid, of course; disclaimer provided by unrealistic PC society).

12. if you are stupid, don't try this at home! TAKE IT TO A SHOP!

Rob H.

 

Is this not the definition of "cowl shake"? These cars are not especially rigid, especially if it's a GTS. Then it's like a wet noodle (compared to modern cars).

 

Who said I was quoting Rob Lay?

Damn!...broke my wheel off...I was sure that the torque spec on the lug nuts was 550 ft-lb!

 

What Rob said above.

However, before doing all that, recognize that the bracket holding the upper column bearing is a unique bracket that isn't particularly sturdy. In fact, if you get under there you'll see that the bracket is actually specifically designed to move in the event of a colision - the bracket isn't solid, it's made in a somewhat perforated manner.

The wheel on my 308 moves around a bit and it's solely because this bracket allows quite a bit of motion (the bearing is good).

 

Good note...I'll check my 328 for that bracket as well.
Thanks,
Rob

 

Rob,

Check your tie rod ends (ball joints).

I test drove a car a couple of months ago and noticed it "darted" a little when it hit small bumps. During the PPI the tech told me that a bad tie rod end was the cause.

It could also be a tire separating, a warped brake rotor and a wheel out of balance among other things....

 

Not mine! It's tight and solid as a rock while at rest or at 130 mp(h).

 

Good to hear (especially while at 130mph....)!

 

I do it legally

 

Mine does this a bit. I was nervous originally at purchase but according to Dave Helms, This is absolutely normal and how it came from the factory. Maybe Dave can chime in as to the exact reason why.

Robb

 

I just retrieved My 328 GTB from the dealer after an alignment, everything suspension/steering wise was in good shape. On the drive home I payed attention to the steering wheel during contact with bumps and there is some movement. It wasn't alot but it seems more noticeable since the other visual reference points don't move the same. I feel the column/steering linkage design probably is the reason but its normal.

 

Must be a 328 thing. I asked around this weekend. It's not a 308 or other F-car issue with the group I was with.

 

Just have fun with the car and inspect it once in a while

 

Yeah, exactly - it's not that tough, just poke your nose under the dash and take a look at the bracket for the top column bearing. If you take a look, you see what the issue is! Very simple.