Hi guys i'm pulling the engine, and i have a few questions - do the half shafts need to be removed completely from the car, or only disconnected at the diff? - can i leave the 5-8(the one towards the front of the car) header on the engine, or will it interfere when its coming out? - does anyone have a set of pre 78 cams for sale? any help is appreciated thx
Just disconnect the half shafts. Without removing headers you can pull the engine but use 2 additional people to guide the engine out of its carriage. I'm sure you've done so, but 'mark' and remove the rear deck.
Somebody had a set here not too long ago for what I thought was a exorbitant price, considering that you can just send your cams to Webcam and they can grind them to 'early' specs (or any specs you want for that matter) for around $1500.
After pulling both my 328 ad my carbed 308 engine: pretty sure you cannot remove it with the headers on. Unscrew the front one but leave it in the engine bay. The rear one can be removed quite easily with the engine in place. BTW when putting the 328 engine back i was l was told that the frontheader could be attached upfront. It turned out, it didn't. It simply makes the engine to wide to fit. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Have a look at... http://www.berlinettamotorcars.com/assortedusedparts.htm CAMS: Early 308 carbureted cams $475/ea., other 308s, 250, 330, 365. All the Best!
Yes, definitely remove the half shafts completely as well as the 5-8 header. There is little room in there to work with.
on the jobs on both the 328 and the 308 I left them on. But it's a pain to get the engine back as they tend to hang around in the wrong spot constantly.
Disconnect the half shafts at the diff only then tie them up out of the way. Lift the motor tilting it rearward then remove the front header and leave it in the engine bay. Rotate the engine rearward then lift straight up. Lift via a supporting strap around the front bank head. Goodluck.
Remove the header if you want to, but it's not necessary. It's probably a little more difficult with the header on as you don't have as much wiggle room, but I've done it a few times(well, I helped do it). Header on, header off, it's up to you either way.
One suggestion, after having pulled a couple of 308 engines and put them back in -- cut a piece of cardboard to fit over the rear window, and over the top of the car. I cut it to fit in the channel on the edge of the engine compartment, and then folded it up and over the top of the car and taped it in place. If the engine accidentally swings and hits the window, you've got a very costly and difficult replacement project on your hands. We also covered the cardboard with a moving blanket, just to be sure. When the engine gave those spots a few "love taps" on the way out and back in, we were very, very glad we'd taken the time to protect those areas. Another good reason to remove the front header; it just gives you that much more clearance from the car, less chance of doing damage. And once you can move the engine a bit, getting in there to undo the header is not that terrible a job. As for the half-shafts, we've always removed them. It's a good time to clean them up and repack them and change the boots, if you haven't done it in a long time. Removing them also makes it easier to move things around in that area as you are doing other work.
p.s. Removing the half-shafts, we break the screws loose with a breaker bar, then back them out and run them back in with an air ratchet. Makes the job go very quickly. Going back in, start the screws by hand and then run them in with the air ratchet; when they are all in, then torque them to spec. (have someone sit in the driver's seat and step on the brake, makes torquing them a lot easier).
I shoved a flat head screwdriver into one of the cooling ducts of the brake disc which pressed against the brake caliper. Robust stuff so no worries about breaking anything.
That works too. I've done it that way, but found it went quicker with someone standing on the brake. When I had to rotate the shaft, I just yelled up to release the brake. Saved crawling in and out from under the car. If you pay for the air fare and provide room and board, and BEER, I'll fly down for a weekend!!!
Anyone have any guidance on what kind of engine crane is needed to remove a 308/328 engine? (i.e how much reach, what lifting capability & what lifting height is needed?)
Lets hope the noise I hear is a belt, bearing, or accessory. If not I'll be a hollering. She has a noise at 4000 rpm and higher, tempature sensitive, more noticable on the passenger side. 2 expersts say it is most likely inside not outside the motor. but I want pull the accessory belts first, and do cam belts before I pull a perfectly good leaky engine out.
Buy the one from Harbor Freight that 'folds up' for storage. Will do the job, inexpensive and uses less space when stored.
Wow you're just down the street, I live on Lake Seminole, by Wynngates Lodge. We need to get to gether
The Harbor Freight engine crane works fine. Also buy 2 web lifting straps and an engine leveler. If you are pulling the engine indoors, you will need at least 8' 4" ceiling clearance. Pulling an engine is not difficult. Take your time and have fun.
Fun is a relative term. For us northerns, who park our cars for the winter, pulling the engine and working on our cars beats watching the snow pile up. Of course, if I lived in Florida, I'd simply drive the car until the wheels fell off .....
Lived there too, In the TV business, I have had the pleasure of moving around the country....way too often, I had 24-7 of cars and boats in San Francisco, worry about hurricanes in Florence South Carolina, Cold winters in St Louis Missouri, and Manassas Virginia, hurricanes again in Jacksonville Florida, and too hot of weather in Bainbridge Georgia.
