the lvferraripilot engine rebuild thread

Paul first recommended I pull it from the side using a 6' engine strap wrapped around the 5-8 head. I found it to be easier to reach the motor mount bolts and maneuvering in general was easier from the side. With the engine canted at such an angle there is still very little room in any direction. With a crane mounted at the back it essentially means as the crane lowers it extends further which is not good in our case considering the location of the back glass. Better not to take any chances with that stuff really. Big thanks to Paul again for trying it this way first!


Prior to dropping the engine in I was a little concerned with some leakdown numbers and a very slight hissing while leaking down from one of the exhaust valves. Turns out there was something or other not allowing it to close properly that just refused to come loose. I cleaned the valves and seat with a bent pipe cleaner and retested each time getting a little better result. A hair is all it takes with these things.

I WILL have it fired up tomorrow and a vid will be posted. Thanks for everyone's support.


It's times like this where I like to think back to my first job while in college in Boston. I was an oil change guy at Herb Chambers Mercedes in Cambridge on Mcgrath highway (I am sure someone knows the place here). Anyway I was fired after 2 or 3 days because I was 'not good with my hands'. Still can't figure out why or how that happened, but hah what memories it brings back.

 

No way. B253 Baldwin.

 

Time got a bit ahead of me over the weekend and my honey-do list seemed to grow by the hour. Most everything is attached and ready to go except for one axle shaft and the muffler. Shouldn't take more than 45 minutes to get that stuff on.

Boy this engine is tight with all the spark plugs in! Holy crap it is difficult to turn over. Easy without the plugs in of course.

 

The motor is going to be broken-in with the stock early cams and then dyno'd. I will swap for P6 cams once I know where the stock setup is as far as RWBHP is concerned. My best guess is I will have 215rwbhp with around 195lbs torque. P6 cams will add another 10 to the bhp but subtract 5 or so from torque. Someone be mindful of this post in a couple months once all this comes to fruition!

Anyone else find their engines really difficult to turn over once all the plugs were in? I have these intakes *really* retarded compared to stock settings (105 LC comp to 96) which is supposed to knock off some cranking pressure yet I am still getting some serious cranking compression out of these babies. Might have to get into a gear reduction starter should it be needed later.

 

I am one half-shaft away from starting this thing. Everything else is good to go. Mounted the exhaust and ignition stuff last night.

 

Word to the wise when installing exhaust donuts to the headers. Leave BOTH sides of the mates to the exhaust system loose so you can get the donuts in. I mistakenly tightened one side and was unable to get the other donut in until the other side was loose.

 

Thank you. Good idea with the static timing!

 

A pic to sooth the beast(s)!

Just need that one half shaft you see in the background (through the wheel well in the pic) attached and she is good to go.
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OK. The moment everyone has been waiting for has arrived.

First of all: This was by far the easiest first start of a new engine I have ever been through. First starts are usually a huge PIA and I loathe messing with them. Anyway, don't be alarmed be a little bit of white smoke from the engine bay as it went away very quickly. I suspect it was cleaner or the 1200 degree exhaust manifold paint seating in or something. Completely gone after 5 minutes. The engine warmed up very quickly (5 mins) so I shut it down about 30 seconds after the first video and added a large amount of coolant which helped a ton. I checked one spark plug and can tell the heat range is WAY too hot. I started with BP7ES and even at 2k rpm can see the heat on the ground strap is way past the apex. I think I might go up to BP9ES or 8ES. Not sure yet. The second running was immediately after and I could tell things were smoothing out a bit. Oil temp came up nice and I checked it after both operations. Perfect.

Used Castrol 10w-40 for break in. No leaks anywhere. Literally instant oil pressure.

Big thanks to Paul for having me set up static timing prior to starting. Good idea and I just didn't think to do so. You can see in the vid I checked it after running, and lo and behold I did not have to move a thing. Spot on. Both distr pickups are in the front distr and of course operate flawlessly. For those who don't know, I use two crane xr700 optical pickups which fire two high energy inductive ignition boxes by Mallory which are mounted in the trunk. They work very well.

I am thinking I will heat cycle the engine a couple times before driving which I should be able to knock out by this weekend making my first drive a proper Sat or Sun morning.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPSjhCYgoFg

 

hah. I adjusted all the carbs and linkages so they were essentially in the same position which is about a half a turn off their seat. not difficult. the carbs are by no means balanced right now! they are just sort of 'vanilla' to get it going. close enough really


second running. started after I added a bunch of coolant:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpzLm7SpatI

 

I will take it easy for the first couple hundred miles varying rpm/loads/vaccum in gear to get the rings to seat. Hoping to do that this weekend.


It's difficult to describe, but I can already tell the engine has more 'pop' to it. Also, the pedal does not quite feel the same. Before, the engine was very lively at lower rpm and sort of layed down at upper rpm. This is just the opposite which I believe to be due to substantially different cam timing and compression of course.

 

If anyone has any suggestions on whether to go with BP8ES or BP9ES it would be appreciated! In the end I am thinking I will have to work it out on the dyno.......

 

No, I notice they spin a bit due to the parasitic drag on the drivetrain/transaxle. It stops when I put my hand on it.

 

I'll snap a pic this afternoon.