RobzWorkz #3: 328 Basic Timing Belt Service

Nice concern, Steve, however, I could see no coolant, but on the upper bolt (circled in yellow/red), I did have more corrosion to clean off; the other bolt looked fine. I haven't rebuilt the engine, so this would be a call for someone who has: it is possible that coolant could leak into the upper bolt area when the water pump is serviced...don't know.

 

You are ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!! My mistake. Below is a re-print from Birdman's instructions:

METHOD #1 (Verell's method)
With the cams still locked, use the 36mm socket on the crank balancer to apply force to the crank in the proper engine rotation direction (clockwise) so that the belt is pulled tight between the lower (drive) pulley and the camshaft pulley at the top. You should be able to pluck the belt and hear a musical note. While holding this tension, the other half of the belt will be as slack as it can be, and the spring in the tensioner bearing will take up the slack. While holding this tension on the belt, tighten the tensionser bearing lock bolt to 41 ft-lbs. Do both banks this way. Now remove the cam locks and skip over to section 19.

Rotate in CW direction until tight.

Sorry folks (BTW, I just rotated until max load achieved).

 

ERRORS NOTED HEREIN:

1. Post 11 needs correction. If possible, would a mod give me access to correct my error. I need to replace "2) the Verrell way, which is to reverse-rotate the belt system WHILE THE CAM PULLEYS ARE LOCKED..."

with

"2) the Verrell way, which is to rotate the belt system in the clockwise direction (forward-rotate) WHILE THE CAM PULLEYS ARE LOCKED..."


2. Post 26: Should be removed to prevent mis-communication problems.

3. Post 27: Should be removed because I accommodated the mis-communication.

 

Thanks for the question, Steve.

I apologize that I can't help much with this, since I previously removed my AC compressor, hoses and the condenser/fan unit last year; I am holding out to develop a lighter, perhaps all-electric version of AC, just so I don't have to deal with it to inspect the timing system.

I'm going to have to appeal to the QV guys here. Although the US Version AC compressor and brackets are alike, there are some differences in the engine bay from the 328. As a guess, I would drain the fuel enough to disconnect the fuel line, move the AC into place, and immediately re-connect the fuel line (apart from cleaning injectors and some emissions stuff, I haven't done any fuel system [i.e., presure system] work on the 328 yet; one thing I do know is that you should minimize the amount of time fuel components are open to air; fuel system stuff disintigrates if it dries out; that's why Ferrari recommends replacement vice re-installation).

Rob H.

 

This is true: to get the belt marks to line up will take more than two turns. I think Glassman's 4 turns may do this...didn't try to check. All the timing belts on other cars don't check the belt marks either during crank rotations, just the cam wheel and TDC marks coming back into place. Belt marks precess over extra turns and, depending on the tooth rate, take any # of turns for all to line up with the belt marks.

 

ABSLUTELY CORRECT!!! You do not need to remove suspension or brakes to get there. I am in progress of doing my suspension so it was roomier to do the timing belts at this point.

 

I'm very sorry to hear this. If you placed marks on the cam pullies, the crank pulley, the harmonic balancer and any reference on the engine (or just know where it's supposed to be), then you can easily recover the timing. Just go slowly. I had to do this as well (I went too fast too!). Don't be afraid, just be patient. I bet you will never forget to go slow and give support with a free hand on the next go round (Steve W -FasterisBetter- gives pertinent advice about pretensioning in Post 38 above for your consideration).

1. Set the tensioner so as to give max space for the belt and tighten the bolt to hold in place. This is the setup for general belt removal without removing the tensioner. Post 10 above shows pics for this.

2. Use the large socket (35-36 mm for the 328) to rotate the crank clockwise in small steps so as to re-gain TDC. Do this simultaneously with step 3 do avoid 'stops' ( when a valve contacts a piston). If you do hit a stop, just slightly rotate the crank in reverse so as to make room to move the cam pulley.

3. Use a small socket wrench to rotate the cam pulleys into place (socket size is abour 17-19mm). It should rotate by hand with moderate pressure (not the 72 ft-lb to tighen to the cam shaft). FYI: the reason the cam pulley doesn't stay in place is that the valve train is in an unstable spring arrangement when in proper phase at TDC. Having the plugs in will not add pressure to force cam shaft, just the valve spring network.

4. When the cam pulley being aligned is in proper position, insert a piece of wood to hold in place (I used a 1x2x6 piece with a paint stirring stick inserted at an angle so as to allow it to press into the cam pulley between the pulley and the head).

5. When both pulleys are in held their proper phase positions and the crank is at TDC, you are aligned. If all is held together well enough, then you should be able to install the belt and release the tensioner pulley. Then you can load the belt again and check for proper timing.

6 Be sure to take small steps and note that ANY STOPS ENCOUNTERED DOING THIS MEANS THAT A VALVE IS TOUCHING A PISTON: DON'T APPLY FORCE INTO THIS CONDITION!!! Just go slow and note that you can go a little bit in the reverse direction on any component to make room for repositioning.


BTW, Steve, if you want to discuss by phone, please PM me and I'll give you contact info.
Rob H.

 

Yes, at the TDC condition with proper cam phase, the camshafts are in tension. Like yourself, I have changed timing chain and belt arrangements. For example, my 1965 Mustang with timing chain, I don't recall any tension at TDC. Same for my Lexus ES300 with a timing belt.

 

Thank goodness!
So, you were quoting me without the grey box in the post.