1990 348 oil pan removal

I am removing the oil pan on a 1990 348. I have removed the nylon lock nuts that hold the pan to the block. I also removed the 2 big bolts (#6 in diagram) and 2 (#12 in diagram) smaller bolts in the back that go into the transmission case.

The pan has not come off. Is there anything else that needs removed or is it just being held in place by the gasket material?
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#17
Likely just the sealer. I understand your reluctance to take a soft material hammer and give it a whack or pry it apart in some other way. At some point, it just comes down to "gentle Persuasion". G'luck!

 

Yep, I think #17 should do it. You're right to go easy on the violence.

 

That brass plug is already a bit mangled, it looks like vise grips have been used in the past. The 19mm wrench won't work, the corners are rounded off. I tried a grip tite socket which is supposed to remove rounded bolts but it won't budge. Tried Kroil, wax, heat etc.

How tight is that supposed to be? I have read other posts where people were trying to remove this by mistake when changing the oil and saying they could not remove this plug even with a long pipe.

I see the cost to replace is crazy for what looks like a brass plug.

 

Maybe fastened with a crazy amount of that brown lacquer stuff some people use everywhere. Maybe a little heat would help?

 

I'll bow to greater knowledge, but are you guys sure that #17 has to come off in order to remove the sump? I was under the impression that #17 was just a threaded plug to gain access to the oil pressure relief valve.

 

No, I'm really not sure, but could it hurt to remove it?

 

If it doesn't HAVE to come out, why risk pulling out the threads from the sump while unscrewing it? It's obviously in there very tight.

 

You wouldn't fix that while the pan was off? What, just leave it til the motor was back together and you needed access? C'mon.

 

I'm pretty sure that it threads into the oil pump. I don't think removing it is optional.

They get damaged, either repair or replace it once it's out.

 

#17 does not need to be removed! I am 100% sure of that. Make sure that all the 13mm nylock nuts have been removed. There are a few that can hide up around the front of the engine.

 

100% sure?
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Yes it's just an o-ring in between the pan and the pump housing. I have done a couple and have not yet seen it threaded all the way up into the pump housing. I don't remember hearing about different oil pan designs but there is always a remote possibility.

 

Does anyone know if the trans/rear main cover plate has to come off to pull the pan? I am about to do a Major on my 348 and am updating the timing drive bearings (90 TS) and will need to pull the pan. can I unbolt it from the rear cover and be ok?

 

It is.. about $80 USD.. I bought one because mine was mangled as well. It's actually not needed to be pulled and underneath there is something which is not supposed to be adjusted.. It's the oil pressure adjuster... NOT to be adjusted.

I have tried nearly everything to get that sucker loose and it won't budge. So I figure MAYBE i'll have them sort it by drilling it out and putting in a timesert at the next major.

Here's another thread I started about it.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/480735-348-oil-plug-ok-replace.html

 

sorry for tricking you into answering a 6 year old post. I just wanted to know if the engine and trans need to come apart to pull the oil pan.

 

Correct, does not and should not be removed, as it has nothing to do with retaining the pan.

The cover plate does not have to come off to pull the pan. In that rear section, there is just the 2 17mm bolts, and then 2 10mm bolts that are higher and towards the center that need to be removed. Other than that, it is just your crank sensor disconnects, alternator, and a bunch of 13mm nuts around the perimeter... there are a few that like to hide or are tricky, behind the alternator mount and at the corners, and by the AC compressor bracket (may need a smaller 1/8" drive socket and a swivel or flex extension).

 

awesome! Thanks. It will be during my engine out, so I should hopfully not have clearance issues.

 

No problem. I am right in the middle of mine, having removed the sump pan and timing chain cover this past week. Just make sure you have access to the removal of the cradle cross-brace and 19mm bolts/nuts that mount it. I built a cradle to assist in access to the parts, as well as allow lifting and articulation of the assembly for minimizing stress to the body during removal and alignment at re-installation.
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Cool device, Matt. How are the jacks attached to the upper frame? My experience is that you need a metal pad to go between the jack ram and the wood when using bottle jacks against lumber.

Have you used it yet? It's something I might copy if you have good luck with it.

 

This is awesome....nice job.

 

Thanks, guys

The bottle jacks each have a corresponding blind hole in the underside of the upper frame that the rams insert into. No need for a metal load plate at the pickup points for the weight of the cradle, as the 2x4 framing is doubled up at those points anyway. It's worked really well so far.
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