NEW, UPDATED: F355 Radiator Fan Information

Okay, after two days of phone calls and emails, I have some new information on the SPAL radiator fans. Please bear with me, as it took a while to get the "correct" info, as some of the specs and information are not current or accurate that you find online.

The factory correct, oem fan is the SPAL 30102113. This fan has the following characteristics, 2467 cfm output, 27.5 amp current draw, and uses an unsealed motor. It comes with the correct weatherproof electric plug already installed, and sells for $220 each from the Fan Man: http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/size....html?cPath=33 (note he claims 3000 cfm and 22.5 amp, but the SPAL tech support says that is incorrect, the latest spec sheets he has say it is 2467 cfm and 27.5 amps). SPAL USA will quote you the specs, and in fact sent me a copy, but requested I not post it to this forum, and I will respect that request. (but the document confirms what he quoted me)

Here is the factory product info: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102113 no spec sheet available on the spal website


I also found out that the fan we have been previously using is available with the correct electrical connector already on the fan itself, saving the work of splicing the old one on. It is the 30102050: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102050
Here is the spec sheet:http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102050_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH
Same specs as the 30102049 we have used previously. 2028 cfm, and 21 amp currrent draw, just the same as the 30102049 (not 2070 cfm and 18.4 amps as listed on the Fan Man website). The only issue is the Fan Man does not stock them, and would have to special order them from SPAL USA.



So here is where it gets interesting. The first question, is why has SPAL USA repeatedly given us the 30102049/30102050 as the correct replacement? The reason is the factory part number (VA18-AP6-42A) is an oem number that is not in their system. So based on physical dimensions, they recommended the highest output oem type fan. We were finally able to determine with greater accuracy what fan this was when I described the heavier gauge wires, and holes machined in the motor housing. The SPAL tech was surprised Ferrari was using the 30102113 fan in an oem application. So what is special about the factory oem 30102113? It is a "race" application fan, with an unsealed motor, and what they consider a much shorter life span. Mainly it has some extra windings on the fan motor to increase rpms. It also has 12 gauge wires, rather than 14 gauge for the additional current. But one important difference is the motor is unsealed. It has two holes in the bottom of the motor casing, for air movement/cooling. This allows air, water, dust and dirt to enter the motor housing and bearings. The SPAL tech I spoke to had concerns with using this motor in an "oem" application, as it will have much shortened life over their sealed motor designs. SPAL does not even offer a warranty with these fans. Here is their disclaimer:

"Disclaimer: This fan is designed for use in paved oval stock car racing. The fan motor is not sealed and should not be used in the following conditions. 1. High dust, dirt, and/or wet environments. 2. Unusually high ambient temperatures (exceeding 176 degrees F). 3. extended/continuous modes of operation exceeding one hour in duration. Standard warranty conditions do not apply to this fan."

The SPAL tech says that as long as there are no cooling issues, he recommends sticking with the 30102050 as it will have much longer life than the 30102113. I spoke with Dave Helms this morning, and he says he has seen no problems with using the 30102050 fans, and concurs that it would be his preference as well, but for a different reason; he likes that it draws 6 amps less current. He stated that even if the duty cycle was an extra 15 or 20 seconds to pull down the temperature, that would be an acceptable compromise for the lower current draw and stress on the fragile fuse box.

I think we have found the reason for the short life span with the oem fan motors, and why they draw excessive current as they age. They are not designed for this application, at least from a durability aspect. They are designed for maximum cooling without concerns for longevity. They are also running right near the maximum amperage for the 30 amp circuit at 27.5 amps, not leaving much margin for eventual wear and tear and increased current draw.

So there you have it. Oem fan 30102113 is $220 with 2467 cfm and 27.5 amp current, or 30102050 for $117 with 2028 cfm and 21.5 amp. The choice is up to the owner. There is a 439 cfm less air flow with the 30102050, but it seems to be negligible based on the users on this forum (I have yet to hear of anyone having cooling issues using the 30102049/30102050 fans. To be honest, I have not noticed my fans running any longer than before, with the original fans.

If anyone IS having an issue using the 30102049/30102050 please chime in.
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Thank you very much for doing the legwork and writeup.

 

As usual you come thru with some great detective work...

I appreciate your efforts at making the 355 more reliable and dependable.

Big Thanks

 

Great info!!!

 

Yeah, thanks bro. Killer info! Bookmarked for sure.

 

Is 30102050 the correct fan # it doesn't show on Spal site only 30102049/48 shows.

 

Yes, sorry, the link above is not working, try this:
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30102050
Note that the link SPAL USA provides to the 30102050 for the data spec sheets is the data sheet for the 30102049/48, because they are the same fan with the exception of the electrical plug. The 30102050 has the correct plug for the F355 so no splicing required.

Again, it is NOT stocked at the Fan Man, but he will special order at the same price as the 30102049.

 

Nice work!

 

Exactly my thoughts too..........and making maintenance/repair so much cheaper!

 

Just to clarify, does the 348 use the same fans as the 355?

 

Nice work man, good info.

 

Wow! This is great, I am debating the same issue myself, this data couldn't have come at a better time! One question are replacing both fans or just on the radiator?

 

There are two fans, one on each radiator on the left and right side...

 

Thanks for the Fan-Man hookup. I ordered the 2049's last Sunday. Got them Friday. Started the work this morning, two hours later, two new fans. Reused the thinner clips and rubber gaskets. Jacked rear, placed jack stands, removed tires, removed panels, removed fans, cut off old plugs, soldered and shrink wrapped the wires, and replaced the fans and panels, remounted wheels, removed jackstands, all in two hours. Not bad!

 

Why didn't you just order the 2050 fan, plug is OEM type?

 

I wanted the fans ASAP. The 2050 are special order, who knows how long that would take? I've ordered things "special order" which take forever to get. Switching the plugs is a very minor DIY job. I've wired my Street Rods from scratch.

 

+1 you have the splicing down! You were fast! That was the part that took me the longest...I am not that skilled so cutting, soldering and heat shrinking took me a while to accomplish. The rest is a simple parts swap.

With the connectors already on, I bet the job could be completed in an hour to an hour and a half tops.

 

I want to thank you again for the hookup. As soon as I blew a 30 amp fuse, I wanted the fix! I didn't feel like burning out the fuse box when such a simple fix is available. Amazing that the factory ones are "off-road only!" These seem fine for cooling purposes, have less draw on the mediocre fuse box, and with my challenge grill, I'm probably running cooler than the car when it was new. Interestingly the fuse blew a week after I drove in rain to a car show. When I spun the old and new units out of the car, the old ones definitely were not as smooth and free spinning, so no doubt were drawing increased current due to resistence.

 

They are a little different.

 

There lies the problem, the oem spec fans are not sealed, and if you drive in rain, water can get in the two vent holes in the bottom of the motor housings...and according to the SPAL tech (and the warnings) so can dust, dirt, etc, so it is inevitable they are going to fail an early death, or at least create a lot of current draw problems.

Let us all know if you notice the new fans running longer or not. I have not noticed it doing so on my car.

 

What is the reason for the holes? They just didn't put them in the housing for the fan motor to fail.

If they serve no function then what did the SPAL techs say about sealing them with a silicone or other plastic filler?

This doesn't make any sense to me...

 

I just ordered 2 fans from the FanMAn, I ordered part #30102050 no splicing necessary as the plug is identical to OEM. Not a stock item but for an additional $15, it was worth it.

 

Bruce,
From my original post #1:

The SPAL tech was surprised Ferrari was using the 30102113 fan in an oem application. So what is special about the factory oem 30102113? It is a "race" application fan, with an unsealed motor, and what they consider a much shorter life span. Mainly it has some extra windings on the fan motor to increase rpms. It also has 12 gauge wires, rather than 14 gauge for the additional current. But one important difference is the motor is unsealed. It has two holes in the bottom of the motor casing, for air movement/cooling. This allows air, water, dust and dirt to enter the motor housing and bearings. The SPAL tech I spoke to had concerns with using this motor in an "oem" application, as it will have much shortened life over their sealed motor designs. SPAL does not even offer a warranty with these fans. Here is their disclaimer:

"Disclaimer: This fan is designed for use in paved oval stock car racing. The fan motor is not sealed and should not be used in the following conditions. 1. High dust, dirt, and/or wet environments. 2. Unusually high ambient temperatures (exceeding 176 degrees F). 3. extended/continuous modes of operation exceeding one hour in duration. Standard warranty conditions do not apply to this fan."

 

The AP70/LL and AP71/LL is a newer version(sealed) motor which carries a 3yr warranty.

The AP70/LL/F is a newer version(unsealed) motor which carries a 1yr warranty.

It is interesting that all CFM's are calculated at 0 static pressure. This changes depending on radiator core construction and also changes when you multi-stack coolers(e.g. coolant radiator and oil cooler)...shrouded and unshrouded systems vary CFM also. Bent cooling fins and bug infested cooling fins also change CFM...lol

So which fan is adequate for the unshrouded muti-stacked coolers for the 355?

I don't know....but Ferrari for some reason went with an extreme performance fan motor.

If there is an issue with over current draw at start up due to motor deteroration with age then most definitely replace the unit....probably using either the 2049 or 2050.

However, if you did want to run the AP70/LL/F you have 2 choices: 1. Upgrade electrical to handle the current draw increase,or 2. Use a FAN-PWM-V3 / Programmable Electric Fan Controller which also has a built in soft start circuit.

As owners upgrade to the 2049/2050 there will be feedback as to whether or not this works with no issues. Maybe this is already a settled issue...if so I'm all for going the least expensive route.

 

Based on previous threads there are at least 8 or 10 people (and probably a lot more) using these fans in various parts of the USA (and Europe) with no issues reported so far. I know one local person in Seattle that has had them for over 2 years on his 355. I have personally driven in 90+ degree weather (stop and go) and noticed no issues (I have had them for about 7 months and perhaps 2k miles of use).

As Dave Helms suggested, the only perceptible difference one might notice with the lower CFM is the fans might run a bit longer. In other words Dave thought they might possibly run an extra 15 to 20 seconds to pull down the temps, versus the original OEM spec fans. Dave again, felt this was an acceptable operating difference, if it meant a significantly lower current draw over the oem fans (about 6 amps based on the specs given from SPAL).
To be honest, I have not noticed any difference in run time....but I am not using a stop watch either.

I am not opposed to using the oem fans, but I agree if someone wants to continue to use them, I would want the Dave Helms fuse box modification that moves the fan circuit off the main panel so you greatly reduce the risk of melting your fuse box. Then just be prepared to replace the fans on a semi regular basis. At least we have a reasonably priced source now for either oem or the aftermarket with this new data.

The 2049/2050 seems to offer little risk based on feedback so far, and along with the claimed longer service life, you also have lower current draw which may prevent fuse box damage.

But if anyone has had a problem with the 2049/2050 not suffiently cooling, then by all means, I hope they will post to this thread.