308 Engine Rebuild & CIS to TWM Throttle Bodies Conversion Thread!

Chris,

New Liners, used liners and no liners.
The liners need to be torqued and the bores measured for deflection,,( or all that money you paid for pistons and rings is wasted...) , (use that special tool you paid for,, mine was browed. whew $$$.$$...!!!)

Then, The block bores, with out the liners,, all need to be squared.
Then take 0.0005" off the decks,,Easy as pie, all done. (Well,,,,, maybe not easy.)
(ask me how I know..)

Edwardo

Note; photo is of my Master Motor Builder,, Mr. Adam.
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Can you get an accurate signal for the ECU if you connect it to the coolant temperature sensor for the temp gage?

 

They look great!!! Maybe a group buy in the future?

 

Side view, please?

Thanks - DM

 

Of the mounts or the magazine?

 

Chris mentioned there were a few guys interested in the specs. Any machine shop should be able to replicate the mounts as the machining isn't too complicated, it just takes a bit of time. I'm finishing, hopefully in the next 2-3 months, my own engine rebuild and EFI conversion. It's a bit tricky for me to machine a bunch of these mounts because I'm not really setup for mass production - I have a manual mill/lathe combo, and have to tap by hand. Add in the day job + family + other hobbies and it gets to be tough.

In the end, Luckydynes still deserves the credit for this one. I saw his post and just spent a lot of time under the car doing the same thing, albeit with my own twist.

I had lowered my engine in order to give me more clearance to the bonnet as I'll be running a set of 1" intake spacers right now (naturally aspirated), and down the road will be running a lysholm supercharger a la mk_e's setup. This requires welding skid plates to the frame though in case you bottomed out.

For Chris' mounts, I set them up so with the car bottomed out, the oil pan / trans oil pan would have approx. .100" clearance when a straight edge is put between the crossmembers, .140" clearance when a straight edge is put between the frame rails, and .240" clearance when a straight edge is put between the jack pads.

The poly mounts weigh a few pounds less than the OEM mounts, for what it's worth. They also deflect and compress probably only 10-20% as much as the OEM mounts.

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Specs per the pics (with the mounts disassembled):

I made his rear mounts 1.137".

I took .008" off of the front mounts, which makes them 1.450". They require a .1" spacer.

I drilled and tapped the mount holes 12x1.5mm.

I milled the bolt holes of the plates until the lip was .085" using a 5/16" end mill doing plunge cuts. You could probably get away with .095", but the extra .010" helps line the mounts up in the car. These now work with 10mm bolts (instead of the 8mm that the OEM mounts have). This requires that you drill out the holes in the steel engine brackets to fit a 10mm bolt - I used a 13/32" drill bit.

The reaction rod will probably require spacers. On my chassis, it needed .160" spacers, which is two 10mm ss washers if you don't want to waste time. I made aluminum spacers instead though.
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Some notes in hindsight:

I based Chris mounts on mine, which is why it has the funky take .008" off the front mount, and then run a .1" spacer. If doing them again, you could just make the rear mounts 1.145" and not machine the front mounts at all (but still run a .1" spacer under the front mounts).

If you drill and tap to 12x1.75mm, McMaster-Carr has socket head cap screws with an 18mm head. I like 12x1.5mm more though, and felt the normal 19mm hex head fits the car a bit better in light of the other hardware.

The hardware is all grade 8.8 zinc-plated. McMaster has a wide variety. The 10mm bolts are 35mm long, but 30mm long would work as well. The 12mm bolts are 40mm long.
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Brett,

Thanks a lot.


Edwardo

 

You guys are too much.

Just as an after note, I finally finished installing the front mounts in my car this weekend. I made the 10mm bolts/nuts tight with two open-end box-end wrenches. I torqued the four 12x1.5mm bolts though to 40 lb. ft. after putting a touch of never-seez on the threads to keep them from galling in the aluminum.

 

Awesome , that's a big step . Keep at it now .

 

Chris,

I hope to be only 14 days behind.
Your block looks awesome......

Edwardo

 

Great news Chris!!

 

sweet......

 

WOOOHOOO!! AT LAST!

Now I really gotta get moving on my car or you'll be on the road 1st!

 

That is great Chris, you should have it on the road in time for the Cavallino in January 2011

 

Looks great Chris. Enoy reassembly!

Jeff

 

Way to go Pizzaman!

 

Lookin' good!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill