Engine out where do you stop?

I say throw in a paint job and that will be just about time to stop.

 

Go the Dave Helms gold connector kit while there. You wont regret it. Check your intakes for leaks. Get the injectors cleaned. Even if the clutch disk is good, change the throw bearings to Hill Engineering. Strip and repaint the valve covers. Replace your fan motors if they are original. Change BOTH cvj boots. Repair the shields for the cvj boots and make sure they are not touching the headers which by the way could be replace with Tubi (much cheaper in UK). Eliminate the cats or at least use the hyper flow type of cats. Despite what a few in here are saying, get rid of the bypass valve. Have the plug wires tested and replace all of them if needed. Kingsbourne have a great wire set at less than half the OEMs price. Get rid of the original silencer and replace it with a tubi. Replace the alternator belt tensioner bearing. When you replace the two HE tensioner bearings, make sure that they have the clearance. If not a little grinding will do the trick. Check the little lines running back from the cooling resivoir. Take them off and make sure there is flow in them. They tend to shrink inside while looking perfect outside. Get the replacements from Dave Helms.(better rubber) Repace the motor and trany mounts. Be careful not to lean on the back of the car while the engine is out as this is where the cracks in the lower parts of the buttress come from. If you dont have the updated power steering resivoir, get the update. Get the proper spanner for reinstalling the heads or you wont be able to torque them properly. Recambi has it. Some in here think that porting the heads will give you more horses. Maybe.

 

I'm very curious as to how you know the buttress cracks come from leaning on the car. Seems like maybe if one fully jacked the car up from the rear one side at a time instead of gradually doing both sides it could be from that, but I can't see even a 250 pounder making those cracks just by leaning on the rear of the car. If you bounced your butt up and down on the rear quarters it might happen. Did you lean on the car and see/hear the paint splitting? EXCELLENT set of tips by btw, bookmarked. Sorry for going off topic.

 

XSFV348, nice job!! Cool to see people tearin' into their own cars so extensively. I rabidly wish I could do this myself, more than anyone will ever know.

 

same!!!

 

I agree with some of your recommendations but would like you to qualify 2 statements you made:

1. So you recommend Tubi headers? Apart from the fact they have a heat shield can you tell me why I should buy them(excluding a cost comparison to OE)?

2. Please explain the "WHY" one should remove the by-pass valve...what benefits are gained? I would also like to know what you think this valve does along with your theory and any dyno run sheets(with AFR overlay) that support this recommendation.

I'm all ears...

 

Bruce as a baby:
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+1

 

The engine subframe is an integral part of the rear structure. When that part is removed it won't take much effort to damage the bodywork.

 

Hey Gary, here I am 62 years later with a little less hair...
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Yes, WHERE do you stop??

 

One of the big reasons the 355 suffers many of the failures it does is because of the slowing of the exhaust heat from the tailpipes. Removing the bypass(which is a pain in the ass anyway) along with the cats allows this to happen much easier. Its purpose is mostly for emissions. The sound quality is better as well with out it . My bypass and cats have been on the shelf for over a decade and when I had my engine out service, we also decided to do the valve guides. When the heads were off, there was no cylinder liner wear that could be measured. This tells me that the "story" of engine wear because of the bypass being removed is simply that....a story. As for the Tubi headers. Well lets just say that they should be insulated period. They claim more horses but I doubt it.

 

Thanks Tim.

 

Someone has beat me to the answer. See 5 posts above. Maybe you misunderstood me when I made that post about the butresses. I ment not to lean on them or move the car around by pushing on them when the engine is out because your rear end frame is also out with the engine.

 

Ahhn I see said the blind man. Thanks for the info!

 

I hear ya loud and clear. Thanks again for the punchlist.

 

Ahhh hell! Now I have to work with that minds eye visual in my head when we talk.

The more I read here... the more I learn.

 

OKEEE DOKEEE, I have just one question for you Dave
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The only book anyone ever needs......
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gotta love it.

 

update below

The old power steering unit has a cap that is 3.5 inches in diameter and the new one is about 2.25 inches in diameter. The HE bearings are all in stock at Recambi if you have any problem getting them there.

 

You stop when you're out of cash, credit and friend's money.