Correcting gaps from the front air intake to the vent fans | FerrariChat
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Correcting gaps from the front air intake to the vent fans

Discussion in '206/246' started by HMB-Dino, Dec 4, 2010.

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  1. HMB-Dino

    HMB-Dino Formula 3
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    Jun 28, 2010
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    RonG
    #1 HMB-Dino, Dec 4, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    When I pulled my front wheels and the inner front and rear panels to replace the fender rubber, I discovered something that can't be right with the short duct that directs air from the front intakes (to side of main grille) to the heater fans.

    There are these hard blobs of something where this duct approaches the lower body sheet metal. I guess they were meant to seal that gap(?).

    Then there's this big gap between the duct and the heater fan assy. That can't be good for getting airflow to the interior cabin. By the way, I never feel ANY air from the air vents no matter what setting of the dash controls. These fans run electrically but what control causes the motor to operate? I thought the dash controls basically just opened/closed various vents. Don't laugh...I'm new to this restoration biz.

    Can anyone educate me on what you see and what's wrong and how to fix it. What parts to replace or do I need to get something fabricated, etc.

    In case it matters, this is a 1971 Euro GT M-Series.
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  2. dino clay

    dino clay Karting

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    clay cavanaugh
    #2 dino clay, Dec 5, 2010
    You should have an electrical switch on the dash to turn on the heater fan. Check fuses, so far I cannot get my fan to work but I have so many other issues that I am leaving that to later. clay
     
  3. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #3 synchro, Dec 6, 2010
    The gaps are OK.
    The cabin vent fans are a squirrel cage affair, open on the side to draw in air. Unfortunately the openings are not visible from the angle you're looking from. The blobs are probably a body putty of some sort to help seal and direct air towards the vent motor, but those gaps won't really have much deterrent.

    Fans inop?
    As far as the operation of the fans go, dino clay has headed you in the correct direction, its probably either the fan motor, wiring, or the fan switch. Fan switch(es) are located outboard of the center dash vent slider controls.

    If you have a Euro Dino, then you have two fan switches labelled DL and DR to turn on/off the Left and Right fans and two corresponding lights in the binnacle that illuminate. USA cars only have one switch on the left of the vent sliders and this single switch turns on/off both fans (note: the other switch location was used for the USA required Hazard flasher).

    Trouble shoot the fan motor first by disconnecting the fan motor from the Dino's wiring, running a 12 V wire and ground wire (I always include a fuse) directly to the motor. If the motor turns then you know its OK.

    Next use a voltmeter to test the output of the switch. If its showing 12V when the switch lever is flicked downward then you know the switch is OK.
     
  4. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

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    #4 jselevan, Dec 6, 2010
    The "blobs" that you refer to are hardened putty. The original sealing compound was similar to what is now referred to as Dum-Dum. It is a tar-like string of material that one molds around the gap. Over the years this material has hardened to something similar to ceramic. If you are so inclined, you can remove this shrouds and chip off the old hard material and freshen the vent ducting with modern vent-sealing Dum-Dum.

    The fan issue is will described by Synchro and DinoClay.

    Jim S.
     
  5. HMB-Dino

    HMB-Dino Formula 3
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    #5 HMB-Dino, Dec 10, 2010
    Before I consider removing the ventilation fans and removing all the old sealing compound, how exactly is the fiberglass (?) tunnel attached? Does it physically attach to the body or the fan housing or fan bracket, something else, or is it just held in place by the sealing compound?
     
  6. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #6 synchro, Dec 13, 2010
    You shouldn't have to touch the tunnel to remove the fan motor.
    BTW, I've not ever seen this fiberglas tunnel on any Dino before. Doesn't mean that it is wrong, just I've never seen it.
     
  7. HMB-Dino

    HMB-Dino Formula 3
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    #7 HMB-Dino, Dec 13, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2010
    Yes, but I was assuming I'd remove the ventilation fan and the `tunnel' on each side so I can apply all new Dum Dum for a better and cleaner looking dressing. It will also allow me better access to touch up the interior of the body sheet metal for any rust developing spots.

    But now you have me wondering if that `tunnel' is `correct' for an early M-Series Euro GT.
     
  8. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

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    #8 jselevan, Dec 13, 2010
    The tunnels are correct. They are approximately 8 inches long and roughly cylindrical. They vent the air from the opening air duct to the fan intake. I have one at the garage I can photograph tomorrow.

    Jim S.
     

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