Best locations for putting a Dino up on jack stands

I'm no expert, but those tubes are soft.

After my first jack up, i stared using a nice big piece of oak on top of the jack to spread the load.

 

"By the way, the jack stand manufacturer (Hein-Werner...3-ton stands) says never put a car up on 4 jack stands...???"

I always do that and see so many others do that, too. It's probably more the instability, rather than stand failure, that is the issue.

Omgjon's restoration photos showed where the major chassis tubes are and how he lifted his car, so that is where place jack stands under.

Andres

 

HMB-Dino,
There are some photos about half way down this thread.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226569

The rear is fairly straight forward, particularly if you have "V" shaped stand cups to snuggly catch the "U" shaped chassis section. If there is any concern it is that the two stands are quite close together and not distributed widely across the width of car. However, I think this is more illusionary rather an actual problem.

There is no natural anchor point for the stands on the front unless you first remove the fibre glass panel below the steering system. To do that you really need the car on stands, so its a bit of a catch 22. Anchoring the stand cups under the front suspension "A" frame is not ideal as these are not solid to the chassis. (as I did in the photos in the above path). If you can probably best to remove the fibre glass panel and anchor the stands to the "U" chassis as on the rear.

With the car on all four sturdy stands, I felt reasonably comfortable getting under the back end. However, take great care to get the stands flat on the ground and symmetrically positioned.

Kevin

 

My car has not had the forward-most fiberglass undertray in the 23 years I've had it and I put jack stands under the chassis tubes front and rear.

I'm surprised you don't ask about how to lift the car to put it on the stands.
It's not necessarily easy-- if you lift one end to full stand height all in one go you won't be able to get the jack under the chassis on the other end.

I prefer to just lift one end of the car at a time unless I REALLY need to have the whole thing in the air-- more stable and easier to do.

 

Yes. Do each corner in stages, not full height in one go as too unstable and as above, difficult to get trolley jack under the corner not lifted.

My comment about the fibre glass under tray were for the front panel below the steering area only (about 2ft x 2ft see photo) and not the fully under belly panel which is riveted to the chassis rails.

Kevin
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What about the diagonal frame members just behind the stands in the picture above? They are farther apart. I think Omgjon was lifting his car on those points, albeit with a 2-post lift.

 

The Dino has a pretty robust frame (those diagonals behind the front wheels are part of it). If you are careful there is no problem lifting and supporting the car there.

I always use wood blocks on jacks and jackstands (and frequently on my lift) to protect the car and distribute the load a little better.

 

Good structural and balance place, however, the main belly fibre glass panel is there which prevents the use of "V" or cupped shaped supports. Good place to put the trolley jack arm though.

 

before I got my lifts (yes 2 plural) I would place my car on all 4 stands and then take the wheels off and place them under the car. Kind of pain having to move them around when working under the car but if a stand does fail the car wheel/tire will save you.

Good safety practice to get into of putting the wheels under the car.