Sorta,, the 226245 are just like the 108947. The NEW Ferrari and concorse recognzed replacements came out in 2008. Anyway, this is correct for a 1977 GTB and is not Correct for a 355,,,,,,,,,, so why bother. Grazzi for your interest. Edwardo Cap for sale cheep. PM me.
some super stars idea of a perfect location for a tweeter. This door panel will have to be rebuilt and recovered with new leather. This hole is the only bad thing about the interior. Image Unavailable, Please Login
we have started the dismantling of the car and the paint is being removed with automotive chemical stripper. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
the rocker panels are in excellent condition, they needed some straightening in the normal spots (near the gas tanks). We also repaired the rear mounting brackets and re-spoted welded them together.
rocker panel photos Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
engine is out and about to be rebuilt. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice picture of the door panel. Mine have been recovered but they covered over the plug for the manual window crank. I have the crank but no way to use it. LOL.
the motor is removed and the entire assembly is pressure tested, then the hard work begins. Line honing of the cam saddles in the heads, all of our engine rebuilds are line honed. When we installed the reamer it would not turn! Imagine how much horse power was lost turning four cams! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Steve there is a special two piece aluminum grommet that fits in the hole for the handle, then the button shapped plug pops into that grommet. Who ever recovered the panel must have destroyed the grommet.
another shot of the rocker panel and jacking point bracker. I know that most people will not be able to see the rocker panel, but when I do a ppi the rocker panel gives an indication of how the car was treated. Image Unavailable, Please Login
the heads studs on the intake and exhaust side have been removed and are on the way to the platers. We have been plating fasteners and bracket for about 18 years before it has become fashionable. Image Unavailable, Please Login
the piston crowns look in good conditon for being 35 years old. There is little or no corrosion in the cooling system. We have started the intial cleaning of the heads, as we are going to disgard the valves, springs and guides for a new entire valve train. when your inside don't cut corners. The combustion chamber have never been welded, so the valves must be original as the car has 38kms or about 25k miles. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
the front timing gear cover has the additional opening for the drysump oiling system. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rocco very nice to see your project here. Certainly helps that you are covering familiar ground with this rebuild! Smooth sailing... CH
it's about time you decided to share some of your work with us Rock...who taught you how to upload pics ? lucky car to be in your hands...great project, keep us posted !
Rock, if there is one thing I regret not doing with my rebuild, it's that I should have had pistons made which raise the deck height of the piston at least .055. The issue is the stock pistons sit inside the sleeve .055, and that distance combined with the compressed head gasket thickness of .050 makes for terrible quench and combustion efficiency. You want it to be between .040-.045. Doing this allows for less total ignition timing to be needed and much greater efficiency. In my future project, I will surely go this route.
Great thread , we have identical cars . I'm very happy to see that you don't seem to have a removeable panel above the steering rack in the spare wheel well ? I noticed this in another thread and wondered if my car had been previously repaired and this panel had been covered over ? Your head studs came off clean and look good !!! Thanks for sharing
please excuse a question from a guy just learning the process... if the cam turned 'freely' from the factory and you're line reaming with the heads still on, how do you know why the cam wasn't turning freely, ie. that the head wasn't warped or twisted ? now material has been removed. what's the recourse if the head was twisted ? won't the new head gasket be compromised ? if your not removing the head, how are you ensuring that all of the filings visible in the pictures does not stay in the engine ? thank you, J
He said the cutting reamer would not turn, that's different from the installed cam with smooth journals and lubrication present.....point taken though......
later pics show the heads off the block... but it's deceiving with the way the pics are shown, because it does look like the saddles were reamed before the heads were removed.
