Ah, gotcha. My mistake. Okay, well obviously you've looked at the spring with no joy. Slip off the distributor heads and see if you can devise some way of measuring the amount or pressure that it takes to push down the central pin, and also how much tension is against you when it tries to push out. It's basically quite simple eh, pivot, return damping spring and the plunger pin pushing against the other end. I'm picturing some type of hand help spring mressure gauge that will tell you the amount of force it takes to depress that plunger pin in the head. Just can't quite put my head around what you could use. I'm seeing a dial gauge, but that won't do it. Hang on, what about a digital kitchen scale with a flat plate. Turn the distrubution head upside down so pin is up and put on the kitchen scales. Then press down on the plunger pin and note the weight change before the pin moves. Do the same on the other one and compare. You need to know that both plunger pins take the same amount of force to move, and more importantly, have the same amount of return force when the pin comes back out again. Don't pull that head apart though. I've been told that whatever I do, don't strip the head down. Serious speciality job. I sent mine off to a Bosch specialist and had then reconditioned, but did the rest myself as you are doing today.
Dear Ferraristi, I wasn't thinking of taking the head unit apart...just off. Yeah, I hear ya, bunch of little springs and plungers I hear. I will swap the two head units. If the plate bounces up...it's the head unit and off to Bosch. If it's still the same....more investigating. Any idea on the module side of the pivot? I really would like to eliminate the pivot issue before moving on. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice !
VERY IMPRESSIVE job there Shamile. You can buy those white fuel line clips from a Porsche dealer to in a pinch, but they don't have the 4-slotted ones.
Dear Ferraristi, hmm.... That sounds reasonable. I completely washed out the pivots with carb and throttle body cleaner to no avail. The meter plate still sticks in a horizontal plane....at a slight angle (reducing the counter-weight) no problem. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
Dear Ferraristi, Under the circlips and cover plate for the pivot is a spring and ball bearing. I had to use my lighted magnet to pull it out. OK....into the hotbox we go...I mean meter box... I started by removing the fuel distribution unit. You do NOT have to disassemble the unit itself but can be removed from the meter body. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
So with both fuel heads removed, can you feel a variation in pressure required to push the central pin. Or do both feel the same on push and rebound?
Dear Ferraristi, Nope....it still binds. This is with no distributor and the pivot dissassembled on the bearing side. OK....the other pivot... hmmm....study...study...study... Ah...OK...here's how we get in there.... Use a pick tool to pry off the curved covers. Be careful....you don't want to snap the cover. Remember, it's plastic and exposed to all the engine heat / cool cycles....darn brittle I'll bet. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, Hi Uzz, I didn't bother removing the other head. With nothing in the way of the meter plate, it should move freely. Ya know...just thought of this. Since the distributor pin pushes downward, it would apply "rebound" pressure to the meter plate. Perhaps, it's not that the distribution head pin pushes inwards easily...but perhaps it's return spring is weak. OK I'll remove the other unit and swap it out. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
Dear Ferraristi, ...and we remove the module and.....Oh man...a bent contact arm...UGH! Wow...I'm just amazed what I'm finding here. I swear...my TR runs so well....hmm....I wonder how well now... Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, Ok...removing the pivot on the module side. I got as far as the module contact arm. The seems to be pressed fitting that will not come off. No problem...the shaft shifts sideways enough to clean and lubricate the pivot itself. OK...after all this...no pressure on the pivots and still binding. I'll go ahead and swap the other fuel distributor and see if that does it. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, While I'm working on the fuel distributor meter plate issue.... Just wondering... Can someone please look at their TR and tell me what washers are used on the throttle body attachment to the fuel distribution system. I have wave washers under nylock nuts. This just doesn't seem right. Why would you have a self-locking nut with a lock washer. If someone knows what washer really goes there, please post. ...ah...umm...cough....assuming a concours, or super maintained daily driver...not a "hey, I just got this TR for 36K" or guys that use inferior door trim seals... Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Seems the same on my TR Shamile. Maybe, originally, they didn't use the nylock nut, and found the wavy washer wasn't enough to prevent loosening (so the "fix" was to go to the nylock nut and they didn't worry about changing the washer), or they were using the wavy washer elsewhere, and just used the same part (rather than having another part number for a flat washer to order/track/etc.) -- just speculating... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, Thanks Steve! If it's coming from you it's "da skinny" I was really beginning to wonder if some hack had slapped anything they could find in there. I was armed with pictures and ready to drive over to my Fpimp...with my Lamborghini no less... Well, at least I can start putting something back together.... Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice !
Dear Ferraristi, Well, I swapped out the fuel distribution units. Even as I pulled the head off the other meter body, I could feel the ease of which the "good" meter plate moved. It's definitely the meter plate body. OK...so, I gotta go find another one now.... Oh since I found the bent contact arm from the module on the bad meter body by accident...I decided to remove the module off the other one. OK...everything's just fine in there...whew... Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, ...tired of scrubbing....out for some fun.... With my girly girl Cayleigh (19) and Kimberly (23) ....again.... 1. yep...under 21 2. Who's da bling bling 3. Short, tight, black dress and heels... 4. umm....yeah! Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, ....finishing off the last of the electrical connectors on the top of the engine. I replaced the temp gauge sensor with an gold plated oxygen free copper audio spade. The boot for the sensor is the same as the O2 sensor. I'm sure we all have a few old sensors lying around. For the ground wires that go on the bottom on the intakes, I used some audio connectors. It was quite difficult to find a ring terminal that was large enough to go over the intake stud and be able to hold a small wire. For all 3 ring terminals, I decided to solder the connection using high content silver solder and finish with heat shrink tubing. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, ...ground connectors on the intakes.... Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, ...last of the electrical connectors... The ground ring terminal on the side of the coolant sensor casting. Hey...look who showed up... Brittany K (22) Hey girly...what's up... Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, ...back to scrubbing.... The coolant sensor housing.... Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, Coolant sensor housing finished. On to the coolant elbow castings.... Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, ...elbows done! Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice result Shamile ! Question: What stuff do you put on the clean alloy surface or do you leave it as it now is...?
Dear Ferraristi, hmmm....I don't know why. I didn't upload them any differently... Thanks Melvok. I'm a big fan of a product called "Simple Green" It doesn't smell, it's biodegradable and non toxic. It really works well on cleaning grease, washes down with water and doesn't leave a white dry etched look. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
