360 Window Adjustment

Hi - I am trying to adjust the drivers side (uk) window on a spider but have pretty much come up against a brick wall. The window isn't sealing where it meets the windscreen frame and wing mirror base (see picture). The window is sealed everywhere else so it's as if the window has dropped at the front a little. It actually lets in water so it needs to be fixed.

I stripped the door down at the weekend hoping to be able to make a small adjustment. I tried moving the micro switch (item 51) so the window closed higher but this didn't really make much difference to the height of the window but did stop it dropping an inch when the door is opened. I put the micro switch back to where is was to start with.

Next I thought I might be able to reposition the window on the regulator by adjusting screw number 43 and it's companion. Although there was a small opportunity to raise the front of the glass up it was only by a fraction of an inch and didn't make any difference to the seal.

I can't see how I would go about adjusting the window position. Can anyone help?
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I'm having some drivers side window issues also so posting here to subscribe to this thread in the hope of some suggested solutions.....

My own problem is pretty much in the same ball-park as above ....... the window often doesn't close sweetly, it gets nearly closed then seems to go slightly out of alignment (basically tips forward a little bit) and then comes to a halt. Repeated stabs at the switch will generally get it to close. Alternatively if I open the door it normally goes up pretty easily and then when I close the door she slots home.

Any thoughts or advice appreciated.

 

I'm thinking I've either missed another micro switch or some bolts that adjust. Or perhaps the linkage of the regulator has gone slack or out of adjustment.

Hopefully one of the techs will be able to help!

 

My thoughts are that perhaps a linkage is worn, or if lucky maybe just loose.

I'm guessing that there's a lever in the mechanism somewhere which at the early part of it's "throw" is pulling from (say) a near horizontal angle but as the window rises that angle changes such that it causes the window to tip forward.

I'm reluctant to strip 'cos I can see myself spending quite a bit of time only to find there's a part I need to replace and then having to put it all back together while waiting for that part.

Incidentally, I don't think this kind of problem is at all unique to Ferrari cars. I've seen many an other car with similar issues.

 

I'm going to try and strip the door down again this weekend to have a look at the linkages in the regulators and also the runners.

 

It looks like this is basically the same regulator as used on the 550 and 456, which can suffer from wear/warpage in the mechanism, in the aluminum splined joint at the center of the 'scissor". This will make sense if you see it.
It is caused by usage/wear but also by thick/sticky grease on mechanism parts. If not too severe the window can be adjusted by changing the position of (12), but before you do that make sure the grease on sliders (23) & (37) is actually still grease and hasn't turned into sticky goo. If it sticks, it will cause the mechanism to get loaded beyond it's designed limits, warping it, and of course warping it further with each use. It is important that the whole mechanism is cleaned from old grease, also the insides of items (2) and (28), as the smallest amount of stickyness left will still cause lots of load. The area of the front slider (37) is the most important to get right. You will probably have to remove the window to do this properly - which sounds worse than it is.
Other items to wear are the blocks (11) of which there are two or three in each door, causing play when worn, but cheap to replace (and BMW uses the same part, I believe).

A mechanism that is warped too far can probably be fixed by the shop mentioned in this thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=310860. Or you can buy a new one, for the 360 they're not too expensive I believe.

PS - be careful in there, the mechanism can eat your fingers.

 

Good man yourself!

 

Excellent tips - thanks for posting.

 

Thank you very much for the advice. Do I need to undo (2) and (28) from the window glass in order to get it out?

 

Yes, otherwise it won't clear the scrapers or door top. Once removed you can also clean those parts on the inside. Feel on the slider rails how the grease feels for how needed this is on your car.
You will also have to undo the rail (39) and window plastic holding clips (42) from the window for it to clear the scraper rubbers properly, unbolt (39) the last. Mark the location of the parts with a marker pen or some paint, and stuff an old towel in the door should the window accidentally fall down.
Check all parts for any wear and old grease and replace everything worn or in doubt, parts aren't overly expensive and quite easily available. On your car it could be the mechanism is warped too far (parts of the scissor should be fairly "in-line") and needs replacement, but you won't need to remove the window for that obviously. You can always first try to fix everything and then decide.
On assembly, be easy when tightening on screws (29), (43) and (47) as you can break the window. I use a very small dab of low-strength loctite on them for final assembly (after the adjustments are made, rail (39) is important to get right) to keep them from falling out.
If the grease is the problem: almost everything on cars is symmetrical, in other words then you'll need to clean the other side too.
And don't be lazy - spraying the area with WD40 or similar does not help longer than a few days.

Good luck on the diagnosis and fix.

 

Thanks. The grease hasn't solidified on mine and we have temperatures around 5 Centigrade here in the UK at the moment - removing the window will be a last resort.

My first port of call will be to inspect the scissor mechanism properly together with the associated joints & runners.

 

I HAVE SEEN PART 12 INSTALLED BACKWARDS FROM THE FACTORY...SOMETHING TO KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR...ONE SIDE OF PART 12 IS SLOTTED AND ONE SIDE IS NOT. U CAN TRY FLIPPING IT OVER FOR EXTRA/DIFFERENT ADJUSTMENT.

 

Thanks for the tip!

What does the other end of part 12 attach to? I can see in the diagram the lower end is attached to the regulator but not where the upper end goes.

 

As usual, the answer to problems Ferrari related lie in the group knowledge of this forum.

I had resisted the urge to pull the door apart, feeling quite sure that what I was going to find was a component worn out and in need of replacement. I was hoping someone could shortcut that exercise for me and point me in the right direction.

Bearing in mind the comments earlier I opened up the door today and found, as suggested, the grease (particularly on guide rails 37 & 23 on the diagram) had dried and gone sticky. I cleaned off with a paraffin-soaked rag, re-greased and now the window opens and closes faster and smoother and without a hitch.

Thanks to all for your input, much appreciated!

 

Good work! I had some success today as well.

I picked up a mate before starting - as it was sunny I had the roof down. When we got back to my garage we saw that the window was closed perfectly. We discovered the problem only appears when the roof is up.

We traced part of the problem to a split seal on the roof (circled in the picture). The seal was a rubber extrusion with a foam inner. The rubber was split and the inner bulging out which meant the window was being stopped before reaching it's proper resting place.

We glued the seal back up and it seems to be holding up. The window is seated much better but it's not perfect. I need to adjust the resting position of the roof but will start a new thread for that.
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Guys, since I have been in my door more times than I EVER want to admit and *cough* can dissassemble a door in less htan 3 minutes *cough*, this is what I found regarding window adjustment. Re: also in another thread. (see images)
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does any one know what are the screws for adjusting the windows glass on this direction? See picture. when up, my driver window would hit the weatherstrip the wrong way, I assume a little bit "outward" , so I need to "push in" the window a little bit to make it right.
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Look at the vertical rails that the sliders for the window run on. One in front, one in the rear. IIRC the bottom is adjustable, i.e. held in with adjustable bolts and screws.

 

you mean #37 in the diagram in previous posts?

 

Didn't see that pop up in my browser so just to be clear:

looks like adjust #32 and #38 on this ricambi parts diagram.. (I want to say 32 can be turned towards the passenger to angle the window outward.. )
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the rail #37 and #23 are closer in real picture than in this diagram, I assume?

they are together right?

 

You'll see 37 and 23 in the door. It'll be obvious once you have it open.

 

Hi out there,

I had a very similar problem with my 360 Spider in that there was a gap at the aft part of the passenger window. Using the adjustments described in this thread I have got the window to sit perfectly, so thanks for that! I have now noticed that the window is loose. Not sure if it was loose before or not...

The play appears to be in the sliders but I am not entirely sure. Is there an adjustment for the sliders? The aft slider has a bolt on it (item 29 that goes into 28) and it is snug. Don't want to over tighten for fear of breaking the glass. The slop is an inward/outward motion and is worst at full closed. The pre-drop works good and all else appears otherwise ok. The drivers window is perfectly aligned and rock solid.

Any tips or hints are greatly appreciated.

cheers,

 

Hey, guys. I read above somewhere that I can buy part number 11, so I'm wondering if it's my problem. The front of my windows dip down so that the entire glass is rotated forward. I pulled the panels and have noted a LOT of play in the front, upper nylon pieces and possibly in the arms that are connected. Video attached below. I know my luck and assume I need two new regulators. Which would be awesome because my particular part number is unavail as new.
Pointers or advice?




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the regulator can be fixed I believe. I had a skilled laborer fixed it back in 2010 if my memory serves me well.