The bid to paint my car

Does not seem unreasonable, esp if this includes (safe, guaranteed) removal of all glass and replacement with new rubber. As far back as 5-6 years ago, I have heard of people spending more than twice your estimate.

 

Here enters a whole heap of discussion where there is no right and wrong answer as the standards of people vary wildly when it comes to paint. Just saying $12K for a bare metal re-spray with a little rust repair can mean really different things depending on who you are talking to. What I can say is that a Dino is a challenging car to paint with TONS of labour when you go to bare metal. I urge you to read the following:

http://ferraris-online.com/pages/article.php?reqart=SCM_200006_SS

From my personal experience, $12K for a bare metal re-spray of a Dino with a little rust repair is on the VERY low end of the price spectrum. I would even caution to say that it is so cheap that you would want to be sure of what you are getting into with the shop.

 

I was told by the shop that did my car that removing the glass was fairly straightforward. As I was fitting all new rubber seals they simply cut the old ones to release the glass. Putting the front screen back in was also fairly easy they said. They got a replacement windscreen company to send their best fitter over to refit the rear screen as that needs to be bent slightly to get past the rear buttresses.

 

What about primer? And are you using single stage or two stage paint?

 

They have to bend the rear glass to install

This ought to be good !

 

I'm not in charge of the project.

No recommendations given or shared.

There are F chatters for that!

 

How many hours of labor are on the bid to re-paint? I'd think that is a more imprtant comparison than simply price. Oh and if you think there isn't much rust in Dinos from looking at the outside, then I'll refer you to OMGjeff/jon's posts at dinorestoration.com. Lots of hidden areas - I found more suprizes in mine than they did.

I think Nuvolari's post says it best.
as an example; Corbani told me he paid $4000 to repaint his car and while it was nice there was a big housefly on the forward top edge of the engine lid. Tradeoffs and all that.

 

The rear glass is actually non-challenging. To remove the glass, simply use a razor blade to cut the old seal. This assumes, of course, that you are replacing the seal. Once the rubber is removed the glass will come out quite easily.

Just take your time. One must first fit the new rubber seal, and insert the chrome surround while the glass is out of the car. Then treat the lateral aspects of the rubber seal with silicone or soapy water. With a helper, gently lift the glass aft of the buttresses. Carefully find the best geometry to slip it forward. There is one point where there will be a tight fit forward resulting from the narrow beam of the buttresses, but with gentle pressure you can slip the glass towards the opening. You will find that you have to compress the window a few millimeters. It will bend without difficulty. Once at the pinch rail of the window, use the standard string inserted into the seal groove to install. Gentle pressure as the string is pulled will find it seating correctly.

While this description sounds frightening, it really is quite easy. Again, the trick is to go slowly and have a patient helper. I have done five and haven't broken one yet.

The front screen is a breeze (pun intended). Cut out the old seal, and install using the standard string technique. A few suction cups will aid in precisely locating the screen within the pinch rail opening.

Jim S.

 

I'm not a Dino expert but have a lot of paint/body, etc experience. If you have any specific questions feel free to PM me.

As others said, I'd be interested in how many hours they're estimating the project at, the type and brand of materials, level of disassembly, etc.

One thing you haven't mentioned is what are your expectations? Do you know exactly what level of fit and finish you desire? It helps to have specific examples - i.e. point to another car and say "I want that" or "Whatever you do, don't make it look like that!"

And be ready for a slippery slope...Its very easy to add a lot of extras after the job has started.

 

What surprised me when I had mine painted, is that I was so blown away by how good it looked, that I did not check dispassionately every aspect of the paint job. It was not until some time later when I spent some time washing, waxing and detailing that I noticed a little orange peel here, a little paint run there and some sanding marks. I took it back and it was sorted to my satisfaction, but I wished I had a paint expert on my side when first inspecting the job...i.e. handing over that check.

 

So true! We joked while my older Dino was in the shop for a bare-metal repaint about my having a case of the "might-as-wells." As long as the glass is out, we might as well...You get the drift! Good luck with your project! Fred

 

IMHO, you need to find a shop that is well experienced in working on a Dino. Plenty of qualified shops north and south of your location. I think $12K is way too cheap. In general, you are getting what you pay for.....

 

Did my 72 Dino in 76 as I did not like color etc. No surface rust nor any suspect when we initially went over it prior to the redo. I owned this car from 73 on and took very good care of it. Mind you it was only 4 yrs old at the time and had spent the majority of it's life at the time in Georgia and Fl. I will guarantee you you have a LOT more Rust than you think!! The underside of the Nose in particular, rockers, rear valences and lower doors are sites. Could not imagine the amt of non visible rot. Read about the assembly and the metal work on these 70's cars. Many hollow spaces in the assembly, therefore hidden rot. $12,000 is very cheap for a complete quality spray, prep, body work and reassembly. Nose is a silent moisture catcher and had to redo it again 3 yrs later as did not initially chge the sandwiched metal work on the initial go round. It did not show when looking at the inner panel. Never in snow or left in the rain. Got rid of the sandwiched metal which ended the problem hopefully for the next owner. Problem is this sandwiched assembly is everywhere.

My advice to you is to shop your estimate at shops experienced in doing the Ferraris of the era mainly the Daytona and the Dino as they were made similiarly then compare your estimate. The Dino is a beautiful car, but it sure has it's rust problems .

I have written this not to discourage you , but to inform as I've been there.

Docf

 

Leave it in, then.......

Breaking anything will be $$$$$$...

I also question the 'bare metal" thing but I know what you mean....taking the Factory filler off is always a big issue. It can be left and resealed by any modern paint system, IMO.

I know they used a hammer to build it, but I don't want to see the evidence, personally.

 

My painter was scrupulous about leaving the lead work unmolested. He was particularly concerned about not altering the edges of the roof buttresses. It's certainly not a job for an amateur! Fred

 

Yep......kind of my point.......you have to totally dismantle the trim to redo lead, (the heat) IF you can find someone old enough to handle it.

 

I'm writing that quote down for posterity

Lead is nothing to worry about once you get the hang of it...Biggest issues are cleanliness before and after to ensure the lead sticks to body, and primer sticks to lead.

 

I agree, and would definitely take the lead out...
There is rust under it. There is rust everywhere in a Dino.
Regards, Alberto