350/400GT thread

Hi Fred, i don't know which picture is what car, maybe the parts book is correct. I am only bringing the mount direction up cause you would want to install your brace on a 400 GT 2+2 in the correct direction. Complete with shims and lock tabs. This way it comes closest to good alignment and less wear on the doughnut and Ujoint.
This so obscure, that if you are not currently fondling a trans mount and looking at the chassis mount points this will not make practical sense.
Now where is that $5 pocket laser i put in the drawer 10 years ago.

Cheers
Craig

 

Fred, here is a heater box reference photo. Once the fan box is out, like in this 997 photo, does anything hold the heater core in place? My heater water core is certainly not loose at this point, but i am a little cautious.
You can see how the cowl vent grilles/vertical tubes feed air to the rectangle box that feeds air to the heater.
On the firewall side my bubble panel is off , but not the diamond tuft vinyl panel.
I can see now i must remove this heater core to access this ducting!
Any clips or fasteners holding core?
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Thanks Fred, found a nice write up by Alan Watkins. Copied it to website under interior. Core not fastened in box, so ..........

http://www.miuraworkshop.com/P400GTpartslist.html

 

I had to tap the core to loosen it via the return hose. Everything out, looks good, except heater hose is from 1968. Fan blade could stand to be balanced.
I bought a new correct valve from Jacques that looks excellent.
Heater hose replacement choices?
Has anyone purchased this heater hose lately?
Certainly i can purchase 1/2" hose at Advance Auto for $1.40 per foot (Thermoid),
but dont i want to spend $10 a foot for some show correct stuff?
Craig
PS the three hose sections measure
18" valve to heater core
33" valve to engine rear
72" heater core to water pump
i think 10' total would do it
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Could someone tell me what the gap is suppose to look like between the top edge of the door and rear lower 1/4 window trim surround on a 400gt? I just never really paid attention to that gap and I find it quite large now that we're on the final state of fitting the trim pieces before painting. I just want to make sure it's correct and I would appreciate if someone could send a photo of their door edge.
Thank you,
Jacques
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Hello Jacques,

Indeed the gap appears to be large. You are missing a small trim piece mounted topside of door. Hopefully the attached pictures make it within this message....

Best Regards

Paul
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Hii Paul,

That helps a lot! Did all the cars have the small trim? Mine is a 350 body.I asked another person as well and they didn't have the trim.Fred?Jack?

Thanks again!
Jacques

 

Fred,
I am now thinking that the gap on the 350gt is different from the 400gt. It appears to me that on the 350gt the center post trim wraps around the 1/4 rear window trip which isn't the case on the 400gt 2+2. Can someone with a 350gt confirm?

Thanks again
Jacques

 

In my research, with a variety of 60's era Italian cars, i have finally come across the Pirelli logo found on Fiamm red plastic horn tubing. At first it appeared to be nonsense staining of the hose, but closer inspection shows different. The compressor is stamped 609, for 1966 build date. This original (but not for long)Fiamm horn set was found on a 1967 Lamborghini GT400 2+2 that is currently under going a freshen up of the engine compartment. I bet i have looked at and photo documented 100+ Fiamm horns sets, most have been restored, i have never heard mention of this ......so the tubing must have been stamped every 50 feet or so. LOL

Anyway, an easy detail to add to any Fiamm equipped car. Order a stamp online for $15, get some permanant ink, practice on someone elses car till you get it right, then add one stamp to your Fiamm red plastic tubing in a prominent location.

Now back to scraping the engine compartment
Craig
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What is the proper finish on the frame and sheet metal of the engine compartment of a lamborghini 400 2+2?
Currently black paint with gooey tar like undercoating for top coat
Repaired A/C type water tank seems to fit okay.
What is the best tooling to remove this tar goo?
thanks
Craig
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That stuff might be the same as "Rocker Shutz" (not sure of spelling) Sort of a thick texturized coating for hiding all sins, which was sprayed on using a cheap but special type spray gun screwed to the top of the can and powered by shop air compressor. One had to go to the automotive paint store to get this, and you would want the black version if it's still available. It can be painted over to correct color with virtually any type of paint. The type I used was a Euro type product, maybe Glasurit ?

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, I am looking into schutz alternatives.
Here is the fuse block cover for 400 2+2.
These, of course , are not all the fuses for a Lamborghini, however all the rest are single inline type. The ignition end is nearest the firewall.
Craig
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Craig

One of the things I did a while back and which made a huge difference was to pull each fuse. Take a brass brush to each contact and clean it. I then put a silver based conductive grease/paste on the contacts (not dielectric grease, which contrary to most people's belief, inhibits conductivity). The brushing will renovatebthe contacts (removing a layer of oxidation that forms) while the silver grease maintains the contact surface fresh. If you want to keep the fuses, do the same to the contact surface for them too.

 

The frame was painted with a black satin finish. The gooey tar is typical undercoating found on euro cars such as mercedes and maseratis. Evercoat makes a nice undercoating that will simulate the original texture.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAINTABLE-RUBBERIZED-UNDERCOATING-1-Quart-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf6a9d78eQQitemZ330555840398QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

You'll need a special spray gun to apply the tar.The air pressure dictates the granular texture.To get fine granular apply strong pressure 80 to 100 psi.to get medium size granular apply less pressure.you may want to practice on a cardboard.

I found a good way to remove the tar is to use aircraft paint remover,a wire brush compiled with acetone and wipe clean with a shop rag.
I suggest that you use a quality respirator when cleaning that crap.

Once down to the bare metal you may want to treat it with a rust remover since moisture tends to get trapped under the undercoating and then seal it with a quality epoxy primer.

Jacques

 

I found out today that the 350gt doesn't have that small trim on the upper corner of the door.strange!
Jacques