308 Alternator Tension Bolt Access

From underneath is the right (and only) approach.

 

You've found the easiest way and NO, it ain't easy.

 

I could not budge that bolt. Period. Could not get a cheater-bar in there either as there is no room for one.

So I removed the main bolt on the left (Car's rear) lower side on the alternator. That got it off so I could remove the 5-8 cam cover.


Now, how the heck I am going to get the alternator back on with belt remains a mystery.



Oh, and I cut the old belt off using garden shears.

 

On the back of the tension adjustment slider bar is a special nut that fits the groove, if that has been discarded for a standard nut it's very hard to do....

Use stubby combo wrenches or the special offset obstruction wrenches, if you have to!

I think I had to feel my way onto the backside nut reaching up blindly past the header.

If the alternator won't fit above the frame rails your motor mounts have sagged and you have to unbolt and jack the block slightly (with wood block) to clear the frame...

 

Stubby wrenches help. I think I remember "donating" a 17mm wrench to the cause and now have 2 stubby 17mm wrenches (hacksawed) that seem to work in there quite well.

My question is how did Luigi know to put that space between the crossmembers in the frame just right where they are?

I am in the middle of a major right now, and if ever doing belt changes or any serious work, I CAN NOT OVERSTATE ENOUGH, drive most of the gas out of it first and drain the last 3-4 gallons and the remove the right gas tank. It makes things SOOOOOO much easier. (You will have to disconnect the top of your right spring/shock assembly to slide out of the way though. Gas tank will then twist out of the wheel well; no need to remove suspension pieces or brake rotor, etc...) Just FYI...

 

Yep I have had to R&R that tank, to get a blown header off the front.

Back when blown Ferrari headers were a rare thing!!!!

 

I wouldn't mind a blown header every now and again.... Just not on the Ferrari

 

On 355s and 360s and 430s they are now considered a "wear item"......LOL!

I had an ignition issue that was filling them like a Malatov Cocktail, then come back on and blow them up... .

 

Problem is I cannot get enough leverage to break the nut free. I need a cheater bar as I "made" one using other wrenches to get EVERY OTHER SINGLE nut loose in there on the cam covers, AC Bracket, etc. They were all Frozen w/Corrosion.

Dumb Luck and good wine.

 

When mine was frozen several years ago I simply cut the altr bracket to get the altr out and then I could access the bolt. Sure it cost to buy a new bracket, but made things go more quickly.

Upon reassembly, reverse the bolt/nut for easier future work

 

I just took mine apart. For the tensioner (upper) bolt I used a Crows-foot + 8" extension with a 3/8 ratchet. For the lower part - you have to use two wrenches, from underneath. I used two Gearwrenches.
I will use same to go back on - when I get to it!
But the hassle will be holding the belt tension while you tighten the bolts.
For this situation a long time ago I made a belt tensioner tool out of an old cable-tensioner (in this case you use it opposite). I made adapters at either end that are half-moon shaped. They rest inside each pulley and you turn the turnbuckle until the belts are as tight as required. Then you tighten the alternator bolts required to hold the tension. Snap-on used to make a tool like this, but not for a long time as all cars have gone to ribbed belts...
I don't have a picture of it as it is buried in my "little used tools" cabinet.
Unfortunately some of these jobs require some specialized tools - not just to make completing the job easier, but to make completing the job possible.

 

You failed to mention, plus a few cans of beer!

 

DEFINITELY!!!!!!