Info. needed about "Check Engine Cyl." Lights | FerrariChat
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Info. needed about "Check Engine Cyl." Lights

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Gary Diercks, May 22, 2011.

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  1. Gary Diercks

    Gary Diercks Rookie

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    #1 Gary Diercks, May 22, 2011
    1993 512TR W/35,110 Mi. As previously questioned--Since installing a set of the "Delubozparts, Catless Test Pipes" my Yellow, "Check Engine Cyl." lights keep coming on after only about 5 minutes of operation. This never happened with the stock Ferrari Catalytic Converters. Once after a strong run through the gears, even one of the Red, "Slow Down Engine" lights very briefly came on. Mostly the "Check Engine Cyl." lights come on during a constant speed or while at idle. I have cleaned all Thermocouple and Oxygen Sensor plug contacts and this did not help. Thermocouples are still in the stock Precats. Should or can these be moved? This car has a Tubi Muffler. I don't feel like I should ignore these warnings. If I can't figure this out, the stock Catalytic Converters will be going back on this vehicle. I can't believe the Ferrari price on stock Catalytic Converters---$8,772 Ea.!!!!!! I'm glad I didn't sell them or throw them away. Any suggestions???
     
  2. Gary Diercks

    Gary Diercks Rookie

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    #2 Gary Diercks, May 25, 2011
    I have been looking for advice for 2 weeks . Has no one experienced a similar problem with a 512TR?
     
  3. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #3 Melvok, May 26, 2011
    There may be a lot of old faults stored in the ECU....

    I can give you a "solution"... it's a test to see if you really have a motormanagement problem...

    Undo the plus connector of the batterie and connect for half a minute to the minus of the batterie.

    Then reconnect the plus connector / pole.

    The ECU will fully reinstall itsself, reinstall all data. Start engine and idle, go for a short drive.

    If still these ligts burn, you should go to a F dealer to connect to the F computer.

    Please inform us if this was a help... :)
     
  4. AHudson

    AHudson F1 Rookie
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    #4 AHudson, May 26, 2011
    Hi Mel, is this true? Sorry to be so ignorant, but I must have 16 years of stored codes, and a nagging one at that. (Sorry to OP; I feel your pain but have no solution.)

    If this is really something I can do that won't cause instant meltdown, I'm doing it.
     
  5. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #5 Melvok, May 26, 2011
    Last edited: May 26, 2011
    YES !!!

    Had to do this because of very right light "Engine Check" kept on burning.

    Put the 512TR on the original F computer at the store... values not "in the middle" and 15 faults .. (all old and strange)...

    Reset the car, went driving with no more light(s)....

    Car is in perfect shape; put it on the F computer again and all values were "in the middle" again: perfekt !

    Try it and solve your problem ! :)

    Please report back....
     
  6. AHudson

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    #6 AHudson, May 26, 2011
    Promise I will check back Mel. You're always very helpful AND appreciative, usually asking for an 'update' to confirm/deny what's presented as evidence. Thanks very much!
     
  7. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #7 Melvok, May 26, 2011
    Any luck Gary ?
     
  8. Gary Diercks

    Gary Diercks Rookie

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    #8 Gary Diercks, May 26, 2011
    Mel, thanks for your advice. I will not be able to try this until I return from the Indy 500--next Monday. I really appreciate your attempt to help with this new problem. I WILL let you know the results as soon as I can. Thanks again.
     
  9. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #9 Melvok, May 30, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Pictures of the connection of my 512TR to the OEM F tester STD-1.

    Left side of split screen is one bank, right side the other bank....

    Have a close look; you can see what was wrong on the faults pictures..

    Everything reset can delete some of these fauts (sometimes they are not a real fault).

    But if there are persistant fault: have the engine setup doen again by an expert / Fshop.

    Picture 3: (see attached Word-file)
    2 faults left side:engine speedsensor and thermocouple unit and

    3 faults right side: speedsensor, multiplicative value out of range, lambda out of range.

    Picture 4:
    Several different values...

    Picture 5:
    Measurement of multiplicative value completely out of the scope....

    We did reset the ECU's (laptop + battery side) and we will measure a week later again.

    Treatment: if faults get back: a complete engine setup to it's original values: estd 4 hrs of work.

    Will keep you all posted.
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  10. AHudson

    AHudson F1 Rookie
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    #10 AHudson, May 30, 2011
    All hail! Thank you Mel!

    Had a persistent 'CEL' for left AND right bank.

    One was Lambda multiplier (7-12) , the other for Thermocouple (1-6). Had cleaned and pulled everything (Helms gold kit) and we thought I must've broken the connection when removing.

    This nagging pair of lights had persistent for a couple months. The thermocouple was definitely lying because it did it at start up.

    Did the "Mel" trick with the positive cable PLUS recleaned and used dilectric on the connectors for the thermocouple only. (Dave advises 'dry' connections with gold and I can't break a Dave rule.)

    Started it up, lights flashed, after a couple seconds, BOTH WENT OUT! Let it idle for the requisite 10 minutes, went on a spirited drive, multiple restarts, NO LIGHTS! YAY!

    After about 30 minutes, the right bank CEL came on, code 1211. Lamda again, but this time on 1-6. But the 7-12 side stayed off. Big progress in my book. Did the same reclean, and Dilectric, but didn't have time to restart. Will check again tomorrow.

    THANK YOU!
     
  11. Gary Diercks

    Gary Diercks Rookie

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    #11 Gary Diercks, Jun 1, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2011
    Following Mel's suggestion, I undid the positive battery cable and held it against the negative cable/post for a little over a minute. Reconnected the positive cable and went out for a test drive. After approx. 3 minutes, the first ECL yellow light came on. Both eventually came on and off frequently. It appears that not much changed after this"reset".
    Car continues to run strong with no other symptoms or problems. Is it safe to ignore this situation? Would like to drive about 400 miles this weekend on a Ferrari event. What's next. Closest Ferrari Dealer about 200 miles or 3 hours away.

    Are these yellow ECL lights coming on only because of an increase in temperatures noted by the precat thermocouplers since the inatallation of the Delubozparts Stainless "Catless Test Pipes"? Has anyone else had any similar symptoms after installing these "Test Pipes"?
     
  12. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #12 Melvok, Jun 2, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2011
    My suggestions are for the 512TR & 512M only ! And quite often it works...

    I said that with the SD-1 all faults were also deleted; so double reset was performed in my case.

    I suppose you can do the trip with no problems ....

    But after that, please go to a store that uses the F SD-1 and find the faults that cause the lights to burn ...
     

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