Could someone please direct me to a parts diagram showing me motor and transmission mounts Thanks
Courtesy of Ricambi's online catalog. Hope this helps. http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=556 http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=691
After reading about 360 transmission mount (large round one) going bad, I decided to just go a head and replace mine. I am glad I did as mine had rips in the rubber. The old mount had the bolt hole off center and the new one was centered. It was a bit of a pain swapping this (having the tool really helped), but now done. I also found a number of bolts not as tight as they should be. You never know what you will find unless you do it yourself!!!
Mr Bock, any chance of getting a quick version of the steps you took to perform the change. Thanks in advance. (I have the tool, just need to know the right steps to proceed with.)
I would be interested in this process as well, as I want to change all the engine and transmission mounts as well. Thanks Neil
Replacing the large round transmission mount- I did this while I was installing headers, high flow CATS and new FabSpeed muffler. I also have a two post car lift that I believe would be a requirement as I had to raise and lower the car some to remove/replace the mount. The air filter boxes need to be unbolted with the MAFS clamps off (I replaced mine with Zebra hose clamps as they are reusable). The 'X' cross brace needs to be unbolted so it can be lifted up. I used a transmission jack to support the transmission. There are a number of clamps holding hoses that had to come off so the 'X' support can move up once the mount center bolt is removed and then I lowered the transmission some too. I bought the new mount and tool from Ricambi. Getting the old mount was a pain in that the center mounting bolt on my car was off-set and the tool is centered. I had to use a piece of wood to hold the tool centered while cranking the nut to push the mount out. Getting the new mount started was a problem as it wanted to cock to one side. I ground a larger chamffer on the outer metal shell and that solved that. Once the new mount is in, the rest is reinstalling the 'X' support, air boxes, intake clamps, etc... I know I left some steps, parts out but I think this is fairly straight forward. Hope this helps, good luck, use common sense.
FerrParts sells for even less: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ferrari-360-Engine-Mount-part-182142-/110650133349
Juri I did see that as well. Thank you. Please note Ferr parts is selling old style mounts at this lower rate. I assume they would work, but would question using them since the factory modified the mount. Anyone have knowledge as to why the modifications were made?
Thanks for the info. Did you remove the X frame completely or does it lift up with the front bolts still attached?
To my knowledge, there was no particular reason to why the modification was made by Ferrari. Like with many dosens of other parts for which the stock was exhausted, Ferrari has ordered production of an alternative subsitute part from either the same or another manufacturer in Europe. There should be nothing wrong with the original part (so-called "new old stock" or NOS), as long as the parts have been properly stored and the rubber did not deteriorate (which is also very unlikely to happen on the shelf, as compared to those parts that have been in our cars for decades and still many are OK). However, one can not go wrong by replacing the old rubber-containing parts with the new. Cheers. p.s. "Italian car parts", ICP sells those pads for even less...
Juri I contacted the guys over at Ferrari of OC and they told me the mount was revised for better support and to dampen vibration. They did state that original style mounts would work, but recommended replacing the washer to a newer style that prevents gouging of the rubber.
After struggling in my attempts to press out the mount, I opted to bore out the center of the mount with a hole saw, and proceeded to use an old fashioned hack saw to cut through to the edge of the metal mount ring. Used a piece of galvanized pipe and tapped it out. Very fast process ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I saw your method! I am still wondering if the x-frame needs to be completely removed or if it will lift out of the way with the front of the frame still attached to the chassis - any ideas?
I would think you would have enough room without removing the x-frame ... in an early spider without access to the front X frame bolts, you can possibly remove the bottom transmission support and loosen the engine mounts, giving you enough drop to access the transmission mount. Good luck !
I removed all bolts at each end of the 'X Brace'. In order to 'lift' the support up, you have to remove the piping clamps, etc... I raised the Brace up about three inches so that the trans support bolt bracket is clear of the rubber mount. I can't believe the other poster drilled and cut the metal shell to remove the mount.... Now I wonder how you get the new part in properly and without damage to the part or the trans housing!!!!! The proper tool does work. Oh, my mount had rips in the rubber.
Update to anyone coming across this thread as I did, though I know it's been covered in other threads. Attached is a picture of why you cannot drop the transmission down enough to get the upper mount to clear the x frame. There is not enough room for that kind of articulation . If you do cut out the old bushing, it's fine. Even if you put a nick or mark in the transmission housing, it's fine. Scratches don't hurt anything. The new mount slides in and will never know the difference. Don't overthink it. Hope this helps. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Another bit of advice that would probably help someone out: If using the removal/install tool, you may have trouble pushing the old bushing out. You should not. It should be relatively easy, less so if turning by hand with a ratchet or breaker bar. I used my impact gun and had no issues ONCE I FIGURED OUT why I was having trouble. First, I’m not sure if these things were installed going right to left or left to right. I don’t think it matters, as I did not notice a difference in one side of the mount from the other. It seems to be symmetrical, with no noticeable taper. Everyone seems to remove from right to left and install left-to-right, so I went with that. Lastly, I do not know if the original 360 bushing has the chamfered edge. I did not see one on mine. If you are using a 360 bushing, instead of one from a 430, then you *may* or may not notice one. 1. The center portion of your bushing, where the bolt/tool passes, is most likely well above center due to failure and the rubber re-shaping itself. This makes it impossible to center the tool on the bushing. You will be able to push through only a few millimeters, until the tool hits the bushing mount. From there, it will feel like the bushing is “frozen” into place, which is not likely. Solution: use a socket or other item to punch out the center of the bushing so that only the rubber is left. You should now be able to center the tool correctly. See picture. Image Unavailable, Please Login 2. There is quite a bit of friction between the pieces of the tool itself. Solution: Do yourself a favor and lubricate the areas between the through-bolt, washer, and cup as well as the parts that contact each other on the other end, as well (red arrows). Don’t forget to lube the threads of the actual bolt (red arrow). I used PB Blaster to lube the hardware (it was the closest thing to me at the time LOL) and a bit of oil on the threads. *edit: also lube between the nut and washer (I forgot to draw an arrow). See picture. Image Unavailable, Please Login 3. If using the upgraded 430 bushing, it must be installed with the correct “north/south” orientation, but it’s hard to tell if it’s lined up during install. Solution: Draw a line on the outer sleeve that lines up with the “tip” of the aluminum diamond-shaped center portion of the bushing. Continue that line across the outside of the sleeve so that you can see it as you press the bushing into the housing. Make a mark at the top of the housing. Keep these lined up as well as possible during install. See picture. Image Unavailable, Please Login 4. The bushing can be stubborn to get started. Solution: grind a bit larger of a chamfer on the leading edge of the outer sleeve (create one, if one does not exist on your bushing). Put a thin layer of grease (I used high-temp) on the inside of the trans mount and on the outside of the bushing. Keep it off the rubber portion. Make sure you are installing it leading-edge first. The large “receiving” end of the tool will do a decent job of keeping everything straight while pressing the new bushing but I suggest start the first few turns using a hand tool as it’s easier to make small adjustments until the bushing is completely straight. Mine moved in a bit, and “popped” itself into alignment. I then used an impact the rest of the way. 5. The new bushing DOES NOT sit flat in the recessed portion of the mount. It sticks out 1-2mm on each side. When you see it getting close, remove the tool and check both sides to be sure it’s centered. Wipe and clean the grease that has pushed Its way through. You are done.
Great write up. Id just add that putting the mount in the freezer overnight and installing it while it was as cold as possible really helped it slide in on the first try (I ground a chamfer in the bushing the night before so it was ready to go)
Possibly. Mine went in perfectly without having to heat or cool anything down, so if someone forgets or is looking to save some time, it can definitely be done either way.
