My car has two large non-air horns which are quite loud. Perhaps air horns were standard on the later GTi cars ... I do not know. Ivan Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ivan, do you plan to do anything about this ? I think the greatest danger is to irreplaceable original switchgear, which over time becomes less capable of safely handling the high-amperage power running through it. If you intend to actually use the car, running high-amp current through the old wiring and switches at the least results in losses and diminished performance (e.g. much dimmer lights) that undoubtedly reduces the reliability and enjoyment of the vehicle. On my A6 we are attempting to duplicate the original wiring in all visible respects, but installing a box full of relays under the dash to eliminate heavy current flows through the switchgear. The box will also have fuses, accessory outlets for GPS, etc. and posts for attaching a back-up battery box in conditions where the original generator can't keep up. Don
Don, I have taken the switches apart and cleaned them really good and then applied dielectric grease in order to minimize resistance at the switches. Still, that does not change the fact that the electrical system has a rather poor design. I may end up putting a master relay that turns everything off when the ignition is off. I should be able to do this close to the battery (in the trunk) and not have to modify the original wiring harness. Ivan
Thanks and good luck with that. For a complete disconnect on all my cars I just use one of the common green-knob switches on the battery's negative terminal. It's amazing how stable the batteries remain without any power drain. After one charger-induced acid boil-over, I'm happy to avoid maintenance charging.
I agree the green-knob switch is a simple solution and I have it on several cars. The problem is that I have to remember to turn it off and it takes some effort, especially if the battery is behind a cover (as in this car). My biggest fear is that the car self ignites while the engine is off and I am not around ... as in a car show, restaurant, rest stop, etc. In those situations I do not bother to disconnect the battery and bad things can happen. What I like about the master relay tied to the ignition switch is that it happens automatically every time the engine is turned off. If a short was to happen while driving the car the simple act of turning off the ignition would stop current flow. As you know electrical shorts have an very distinguishable odor as the wires heat up and the rubber sleeve melts, therefore serious damage can be avoided if you quickly cut the current flow. Ivan
Good thinking. Would be grateful if you would post information about whatever solution you devise. Don
I first used a sponge brush, but I was not satisfied with the results as there was some streaking. The second coat was sprayed. Ivan
Don, I have been doing some research and believe to have a solution. Painless Performance makes two electric battery disconnect switches. One version you activate with a toggle switch (on/off) and the other you activate with a momentary push button switch. They look like a starter solenoid but are designed to be energized for long periods of time, while a starter solenoid is only energized while the engine is being started. I decided to go with the version that uses the toggle switch but instead of using the mechanical switch that comes with the kit I will install a relay that is triggered when the ignition is on. Turning off the ignition will disconnect the battery and the only thing with power on the car will be the hot side of the ignition switch. No cutting of the harness is required. The trigger relay can be connected to any of the fuses that are switched. One additional wire will be need from the disconnect switch (mounted close to the battery) to the trigger relay, which will be hidden behind the dash. This is the part I ordered: http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30204 Ivan
I am still weeks away from hearing the engine running but yesterday was a good day. Ivan Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I will be interested to know what attached to the hole directly behind the distributor. I see you have a red block off plug currently there. Mine has an aluminum block off plate. Ciao, FGM 101.708
Great work, Ivan! You are one of the few people on the planet that can pull off a project like this. Ciao, George
It is one of the large oil lines that goes to the oil filter. Is your oil filter mounted on the front right of the engine bay or is it mounted on the engine itself? This engine does not have the scavenger pump. Ivan Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks George. I feel like I am in a rocket headed towards the moon, but there are still a few more challenges ahead Ivan
Ah ha, It is for remote oil filter cars. Mine has the filter housing in the traditional location and is not remote like the one in the photo. I guess they just caped off the return hole on my engine. It would be interesting to know with which engine number they cast "out" the return hole. Anyway mystery solved. Ciao, FGM Image Unavailable, Please Login
One thing I suspect is incorrect on my car is the red ground wire around the rubber steering column linkage. If I recall from other cars this should be a flat ground strap. Someone please post a photo of the original ground wire. Ivan Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ivan, the wire is actually a flat braided copper strap. Normally it jumpers the ground connection on the outside of the rubber steering coupler. I like to tuck it inside(see photo). Larry Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Larry. That is exactly what I remember seeing on other cars. I also recall that they break, which could explain why mine is not the original. Any idea where I can find such a braided strap? I have seen similar ones as grounding straps in electrical equipment. This obsession with paying attention to the details is time consuming ... Ivan
Ivan, mine are original, but they can easily be made by buying a piece of braided copper strap at a local hardware store and crimping some suitable spade lugs on the ends.
Ivan, Belated but many thanks for all of the details. I will definitely look into integrating one of these full-system relays into my project. There's nothing like savoring the most rewarding stages of bringing back an exceptional car in a clean new shop. Thanks for sharing the experience. Don
The one in the photo appears to be copper. Victoria British sells a braided connector, but it isn't copper, but it is flat exposed braided was used in exactly the same way as the photo. http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/tc/full.aspx?Page=87 Item 12. Best, Ron
