Detailers: how much is enough?

Are you using the newest microfiber pad system?

 

Cool, no problem at all! Here's another excellent review of that system (with tips) from one of the country's best Ferrari detailers, Todd Cooperider.

 

I was one of the few people who had the pleasure of developing this system from pre-Beta testing, and also had the pleasure of speaking multiple times with product developer Jason Rose and polishing guru Kevin Brown.

The premise behind the DA Microfiber system is that it takes advantage of a DA polishers unique motion. A DA polisher with both spin the pad like a top as well as do tiny, 5/16 inch circles like you were waxing by hand. The combination of both motions is a a curly-q pattern. With a traditional foam pad, much of this unique movement is absorbed by the pad like a bowl of Jello that jiggles on itself. With the microfiber system this unique movement is utilized. The abrasives in the polish attach themselves to the microfiber strands, and the curly-q motion exposes 360 degrees of each individual fiber (loaded with abrasives) to the paint. The result is a huge increase in 'functional surface area' and a system that can polish paint as strong (if not nearly as strongly) as a rotary polisher in most cases.

To answer your question about how much product to use.

First prime the pad with polish (or in this case D300 Microfiber Compound). This is accomplished by spreading an ample amount of product across the pad and working it with your hands until a thin even coating covers the entire surface. This will ensure not only maximal cutting but also maximal finishing. (Think of a piece of sand paper. If the abrasives that comprise the sand paper are packed evenly you will get a smooth surface. If we remove some of the abrasives in random areas and create areas of free space, the adjacent abrasives will be pushed into the paint with uneven force. This is you can lay on needles if there is enough of them to distribute pressure evenly).

After priming the product with liquid, allow it to stand for a couple minutes. Take a nylon brush or (preferred) and air compressor and blow out any excessive product, leaving just the thin, even coating behind. Now begin polishing. Set the dial to speed 5, use firm pressure (enough to engage the microfiber disk evenly to the surface) and slow arm speed, about 2 inches per second. Over lap your passes over a 2 x2 square by about 30 percent. Polish until defects are gone or the polish is no longer as effective, then wipe away the residue with a clean, non-scratching microfiber towel.

BEFORE polishing the next section you should either blow the pad out with compressed air or brush the pad with a nylon brush while the DA polisher in on a lower speed setting. This is because polishing paint removes paint (or clear coat) and this abraded residue will contaminate the polishing surface. The abraded paint will almost act like an adhesive that will cause the ultra fine abrasives to clump or stick together. This will result in the surface looking hazed after polishing.

Clean the pad thoroughly and frequently and inspect the resulting finish frequently in good light. Never 'guess' at the amount of correction you have done. This results in frustration when you see your finish in the light for the first time (after you think you are done) and realize that you should have spent more time polishing.

The good news is the paint on most F355's responds quite well to polishing. You should see progress quite quickly. The downside is that the paint quality isn't the best, nor is the fitment of various panels, and gaps. Be very careful when polishing over a gap (such as the door/rear fender) because if any edge sticks out just a few mm's more than the surrounding area it is easy to burn the paint. Be equally carefully on the rear engine cover because of the huge number of edges necessitated by the venting.

Also I would caution against going for 'perfection'. You may notice a couple of stray swirl marks or straight line marks in the paint after polishing. Unless you have a paint gauge and experience working on that paint you could damage it by attempting to push to far. Also be realistic on how much time you are willing to spend to maintain the finish as one bad wash can undo hours (or days) of polishing.

Best

Todd

 

After the pad is primed, 2 to 3 dime sized dots is all that is needed.

Here is another tip. If you notice the surface is hazy leave the polish on the paint and try this. Blow the pad with compressed air to clean it thoroughly. Now go back over the section using firm down pressure and slow arm speed BUT set the machine on speed 3. That pad will barely rotate. Don't add more polish, simply refine the existing polish that is on the paint.

By cleaning out the abraded paint in the middle of the application you will usually get a much better finish. If the surface is too hazy the second step might not have enough bite to refine the haze.

Also for the finishing step priming the pad is not necessary and often will have detrimental affects.

Ps sorry for any spelling errors. I'm on my phone.

 

This is a great thread and I'm really interested in trying the DA Microfiber system. However, in the video it was stressed several times that the System is intended for "OEM Factory-Applied Paint". My car appears to have been repainted a few years ago so it's not "fresh paint". Can I safely use Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System on my car? Thanks!

 

^ I'll ultimately yield to the final word from Todd, and his expertise on this one. But in my experience, I've had absolutely no problems with various types of paints (OEM, hard and soft clears, lacquer, single stage, you name it).

My guess is that Meguiars stressed "OEM" in the video simply because that's what it was initially formulated for. In other words, it's easier to claim "no swirls" on one specific type of painted surface rather than a broader realm (again, that's my personal guess though...don't quote me).

 

Thanks, I still plan to purchase the system for my Crossfire SRT6, which has plenty of swirls. Although I bought the car new, it previously sat in Chrysler’s storage for two years before going to auction. The dealer who got it from there over-buffed the paint pretty badly.

What prompted my question is that I'm pretty sure that my Mondial had been repainted a few years ago.

 

Wade,

Meguiar's is a very conservative company whose recommendations are based (IMO) to avoid all liability.

Just like OEM paint varies (widely) from manufacturer or manufacturer, model to model, factory to factory, and sometimes color to color, so does aftermarket paint. In many cases (particularly with the water-borne paints being used) the different in OEM paint and after market paint is non-existent. So it is literally impossible to make a general statement regarding OEM vs. factory paint. What about a company like Rollys-Royce or Bugatti who still hand paints their cars? Other than being applied in a paint booth in the factory location, these paints are no different (including application) to what is used in most high end aftermarket shops. What about a bodyshop like First Class in Pompano Beach, FL. They use the EXACT application and standards that Ferrari uses in the factory...

The problem (and reasoning behind Meguiar's statement IMO) is that aftermarket paint can vary wildly in quality, paint hardness, and thickness (even more so that OEM paints).

The Meguiar's DA Microfiber system doesn't work well on extremely soft paints, as it will tend to leave a slight haze caused my microscopic marring. Some aftermarket paints can be EXTREMELY soft, and hard to polish no matter what the method. But this isn't just limited to aftermarket paints, Infinity G35/37s tend to have VERY soft paint that is difficult to polish. Jet Black (not Black Sapphire) BMW's built in the US also tend to have very soft paint that swirls easily and is hard to final polish.

But there is no miracle difference between the actual chemical makeup of the paint on the car that affects whether or not a particular abrasive method will work or not, it is just differences in the individual paint (regardless of where it was applied) that determine whether or not a particular polishing method will work. Given the HUGE variance in aftermarket paints (from a 200 dollar Macco special to a $100,000.00 Pebble Beach Show Car) it seems (as tradition per Meguiar's) that they took the safe as less liable route.

The worst case scenario (minus burning through the paint which can occur anytime it is polished with any method or twisting the paint which is a paint application problem) is you won't get a perfect finish. I have used the DA system on a lot of 'aftermarket' paint systems with no issues.

Best

Todd

 

Mondials, IME, don't have the best quality paint jobs from the factory. While it may not be Cavallino correct, and aftermarket paint job (based on the quality of course) isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Best

Todd

 

Thanks Todd, for taking the time. That's great info.

Right now both cars are awesome "10-footers" but they do need some correction.