Brake booster problems | FerrariChat

Brake booster problems

Discussion in '308/328' started by MNExotics, Aug 2, 2011.

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  1. MNExotics

    MNExotics F1 Rookie
    BANNED

    Dec 13, 2010
    2,631
    Good Thunder
    Full Name:
    Ben Gruenzner
    My car is really hard to stop. I have a firm and I have bled the brakes with no improvement and no brake falure light is present (tested to verify that it is working). I did notice that the pedel feel does not change when the engine starts like my other vehicles so I am suspecting the booster. I removed the hose and vacuum was present and the check valve was functioning. There was a hiss when I removed the hose at the booster making me belive the diaphram is still good. any suggestions would be appreciated.

    as a side story I sold a spare booster I had last fall. funny how life works sometimes
     
  2. shawxhurst

    shawxhurst Formula Junior

    Nov 6, 2006
    672
    San Diego
    Full Name:
    Steve Hawxhurst
    I JUST went through this! My car had a very hard pedal and would not stop no matter how hard I pushed. The problem pretty much has to be the hose or check valve (you may be getting suction but is it enough? I think it requires about 14 lbs). A quick test for this is to buy a length of hose that will reach from the plenum to the booster OUTSIDE the car. Tie the the partially open (just enough to let the hose out) engine cover down to the bumper and run the hose along the driver's side door and into the front hood. Then road test. If that doesn't fix it then the bad news is that the problem is the booster or the master cylinder. The good news is that you won't have to replace the hose which runs through the door sill and is a true PITA to get done. You don't mention if you're handy enough to do the work yourself but if so, you need to remove the booster and the master cylinder for rebuild/inspection. An independant Ferrari shop will probably charge 5-6 hours of labor to remove and replace so you're looking at about $800 in labor plus a markup on the rebuild which they will subcontract to a rebuilder. You DONT want to get new parts from an OEM supplier unless you're willing to spend $1200 - $2000 for OEM parts. Brakes is brakes and there's nothing magic about 4 wheel disks even if the're on a Ferrari. I ran a thread in this (do a search) when my problem started and another F-chatter recommended Power Brake Exchange in San Jose. I don't have their info handy but just call 411 for the number. Ask for Martine - he knows me. If I recall correctly their cost was just over $200 to rebuild the booster and another $90 or so if the master needs to be honed. If the master is really bad it may need to be sleeved but their price is still quite reasonable. You might want to ask them to test the booster before they rebuild it as otherwise they may just assume it is bad and go straight into rebuilding. It is almost certainly bad but its good to get some baseline numbers to see how much vacuum it will hold, if any. Feel free to PM me if I can give you any other help.

    Steve
     
  3. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
    2,345
    Don't fear the hose replacement, it's almost a 'rite of passage' for 308 owners and is eventually needed for the decaying accompanying heater hose as well.

    Take pictures as you go (& GL) with the brakes.
     
  4. MNExotics

    MNExotics F1 Rookie
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    Dec 13, 2010
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    Ben Gruenzner
    Tried the hose to no improvement. Even tried using my mustang as the vacuum source since it has a lower map reading Tonite I am going to remove the mastercylinder from the booster and try to adjust the ball on the end of the rod. If that doesn't correct my issue then I am going to have to get the booster rebuilt
     
  5. shawxhurst

    shawxhurst Formula Junior

    Nov 6, 2006
    672
    San Diego
    Full Name:
    Steve Hawxhurst
    You didn't mention the year/model of your car. Mine is an 85 QV with over 100K miles so its no surprise that the rubber diaphram failed as all rubber does on a 26 year old F-car. I don't see where adjusting the master cyl. ball/rod will change anything. I'm still certain its the booster but I did not stay in a Holiday Inn last night and I can be pretty stupid about mechanical stuff no matter where I spend the night.
     
  6. JOHN SHAW

    JOHN SHAW Rookie
    BANNED

    Jun 29, 2011
    32
    it is the calipers, front or the rear seized up, remove the brake pads & squeeze the calipers
    with a C-LAMP make sure they are moving in & out, bleeding them alone is not sufficent
    they have to be working, going in & out several times,or you have to rebuild them

    make sure you are looking @ them moving in & out
    sometimes its the small flexible hose to the calipere blocked up
     
  7. MNExotics

    MNExotics F1 Rookie
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    Dec 13, 2010
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    I pulled the master cylinder and booster off tonite and found a lovely smelling mouse nest behind the booster which I used to decorate my garbage can. I verified that 15 inhg was present at the booster and it was holding vacuum. I found no issues so far but I am going to try and bench test them tomorrow.
     
  8. JOHN SHAW

    JOHN SHAW Rookie
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    Jun 29, 2011
    32
  9. shawxhurst

    shawxhurst Formula Junior

    Nov 6, 2006
    672
    San Diego
    Full Name:
    Steve Hawxhurst
    I respect John's opinion - he may well be right but my money's still on the booster. It seems unlikely to me that BOTH front (or rear) calipers would fail at the same time. I think that if one got stuck the car would swerve under braking. The OP doesn't give a lot of detail about the symtoms. In my case the pedal was super hard (no booster assist) and there was a lack of braking, especially when rolling up to a stop sign or light at low revs, at all four corners. If it turns out to be the calipers then bravo John and you can check out Birdman's site for DIY rebuilding instructions. Not difficult to do if you're fairly handy with a wrench - say about a 4 on a scale of 1 to 10.
     
  10. flyngti

    flyngti Formula 3

    Jul 16, 2009
    1,246
    Snohomish, WA
    Full Name:
    Eric L
    This line says it all. No change in pedal feel from engine-off to engine-on points directly at the booster, NOT seized calipers.
     
  11. 350HPMondial

    350HPMondial F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 1, 2002
    5,325
    18 mi from the surf,, close to Pismo, CA
    Full Name:
    Edwardo
    #11 350HPMondial, Aug 5, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  12. MNExotics

    MNExotics F1 Rookie
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    Dec 13, 2010
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    Ben Gruenzner
    Over the weekend I removed the booster and master cylinder. The master cylinder was functioning properly and since I had it out I drained it, cleaned the reservior and re-bled it with fresh fluid. I tested the booster it held vacuum but when the rod was pushed it did not release the vacuum on the rear of the booster diaphram. At the advice of one of my friends I adjusted the rod to allow more movement in the valve that controls pressure differentiation and retested. You can now hear air entering the booster. I will retest on the car and hopefully my issue is resolved.
     

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