1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY | Page 2 | FerrariChat
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1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by moorfan, Aug 15, 2011.

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  1. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #26 moorfan, Aug 18, 2011
    FBB,
    I did check with Kris Helms prior to undertaking this and she stated they had no kit for the 550. I was hoping.
    The only problem with putting together a fuel tank overhaul kit is that you are never certain which parts will be problems...There are certain guaranteed items, like the chevk valve gaskets, sleeve gasket and the antivibration gasket, but other things like wiring harness and delivery hose and seal gaskets are +/-...

    I hate to advise people strongly based on my study of one tank. I'd want to consult with real experts who have done dozens or more of these refurbs.

    PK
     
  2. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #27 moorfan, Aug 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    So, while I am waiting on parts to be delivered for my friend the fuel tank I turned my attention towards the cooling system and hose replacement. As many of you are aware the correct replacement of ALL of the cooling system hoses with quality hose is a must.
    In order to get to all the cooling system components that are critical, the entire intake manifold must be removed to get access to several of these crucial hoses and sensors.

    Compared to my Aston for example, removing this manifold was a snap. The manifold itself is held on by 24 10mm nuts, at least five of these on my car were loose enough to be turned by hand. You need an extension and a swivel arm to get to many of them. I facilitated this by removing my injector rails previously, although this isn't totally necessary.

    Prior to removing the nuts, you should work on removing the INNUMERABLE hoses and components attached to the manifold. Ok...I jest..it isn't "innumerable" but it's close. Make sure to note which thing goes where, because there are several hoses that look similar and could reach multiple sites.

    I also found it easiest to remove the airbox covers on each side, to then be able to easily remove the MAF sensors, to then easily be able to remove the elbow that goes onto the throttle body. I did also remove the throttle bodies separately, for ease and cleaning.
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  3. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #28 moorfan, Aug 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Once I had everything disconnected that I could see, I removed all 24 intake nuts. Had to climb on the engine to get the back ones again. Don't knock the bowl containing all the nuts over onto the engine, spilling them down into various cracks and hard to reach places. This would be stupid...ask me how I know :)

    Once all nuts were off, my assistant and I lifted the manifold straight up and off the base...it was still held by several hoses that I hadn't been able to see. Just carefully set it down at an angle and remove the hoses. Then lift it straight up and out of the car. In this state of disassembly it isn't to heavy, but the width of the car makes it unwieldy.
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  4. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #29 moorfan, Aug 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    At this point I surveyed the scene: My pass side cam cover is losing paint, which is baked and flaking off. Needs powder coating.

    Does anyone know whether the cam covers can be removed and replaced without having to remove cams and replace cam seals? (photo 1)

    There is a layer of blue goo all throughout the valley. Photos 2 and 3 show the two primary hoses implicated in ruptures. This car previously had the hoses replaced and upgraded to 575 hoses.

    Photo 4 shows the POS original hose behind the other two, that was found to be leaking on pressure testing. Also visible in this photo are the three sensors that will also be replaced.
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  5. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #30 moorfan, Aug 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I was quite disturbed to see the condition of my intake valves. Every one of them was covered with soot and carbon...much worse than in my Aston which had a few thousand more miles. I couldn't get a really good photo of the appearance but here are a few bad photos.

    I'd love to hear suggestions on getting this crud off the intake valves without removing the heads. I've read lots of things, from techron and a toothbrush to walnut media blasting to carb cleaner.
    Thoughts?
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  6. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #31 fatbillybob, Aug 20, 2011
    Yes but if you have gone this far you may as well do the belts and time the motor and then button it up for 3-5 years. Consider Scuderia Rampante's replacement parts. AS you can see engine heat cooks everything. Refurb of the fuel injection harness is a temporary fix. If you take apart the ground connections under the OEM wrap you will have heart failure at the sketchy job. SRI has a great custom FI harness that will last forever and tested tough. And of course their hoses and gold kit. The 550 can be nearly Toyota bulletproof!

    http://www.scuderiarampanteinnovations.com/
     
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  7. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #32 fatbillybob, Aug 20, 2011
    I wonder what the Exhaust valves look like? Anyway head de-coke only good way is heads off but that is a whole different set of issues and even potentially a head gasket issue that is yet to be solved. Read some of Dave Helms posts on that. So I would not do it unless I had to. For now I'd stick to the chemicals. Crazy as it sounds I have seen with my own eyes real benefit to multiple Seafoam attempts done just to see if it worked and it does! But it is not easy. You must remove the cats to prevent fouling them which is a pita in itself. We did it on a honda that smoked with wasted valve guides and huge junk on the exhaust valves mostly. Seafoam broke most of that stuff off. It was amazing. Search some youtube videos and get a chuckle at this stuff for yourself.
     
  8. Texas Forever

    Texas Forever Eight Time F1 World Champ
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    #33 Texas Forever, Aug 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    When you button things up, you might want to be careful how you position the hose clamps. The bolt head on the left one may be dangerously close to the hose above it. Brian Crall just showed me how this problem on a 308 could lead to a busted fuel hose.

    Dale
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  9. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #34 moorfan, Aug 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks for the input FBB and Dr. Who.
    The car had a full major exactly two years ago. On PPI the compression and leakdown checked out with good close pressure measurements between all cylinders. I am going to be reinstalling the SRI hose kit. I didn't know about their fuel injector harness. Their gold connector kit is "not available" to the public (like me).

    I also discovered on taking apart the intake manifold that there is oil in the manifold...not tons but a good coating on everything. (photo pictured).

    I can't see turning this thing into a COMPLETE rebuild...I hoped to drive it sometime this millenium.

    Besides, (being honest with myself) timing service is beyond my level of expertise. Period.
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  10. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    #35 Cribbj, Aug 20, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2011
    Pete, I would've said carb cleaner and a toothbrush should get most of the crud loose. Double edged sword, though, because if you shoot the carb cleaner up the stems it'll go after & embrittle the stem seals too. Then you'll be in for a stem seal change sooner than you'd planned.

    The presence of oil in there, I would think, means the catch can (OK in Ferrari parlance: oil vapor separator) isn't working too well? We normally see oil vapor all over the intake of cars with high blowby, and that dump the PCV directly into the intake, and that's one of the primary reasons to add a catch can. But on our V12's I "think" all the oil breather hoses should already pass by that can before ending up at the intake, don't they?

    Carl, what's this about an SRI FI harness? Mine needs resleeving as most of the outer rubber coating has flaked off, plus I was going to repin it as soon as Dave made the gold kit available to the public, but a whole new pair of injector harnesses might be a better proposition, if they include the gold kit too?
     
  11. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #36 fatbillybob, Aug 20, 2011
    Your skills are fine. Perhaps you just need a bit of coaching but save that for another year then. Check the belts if you want the new version OEM Ferrari belt on 575+ are good for 5 years. No backdate rec has been done for the 550 but I think it is a reasonable gamble to go 5 years on the ferrari belt. I think I would stick to the 3 year change if you go with the oem maker "non-ferrari" logo belt. There was a thread on it and the pro brian pretty much convinced us that there is a positive difference with the OEM Ferrari logo belt.

    Oil is natural from the scavaging system like PCV but I forget the name Ferrari uses.

    The 550 gold kit may not be ready for prime time as a kit but I know all the parts exist. Call and light a fire under Dave and maybe he can get it to you. It is the best modification I have ever done to a ferrari period. I have posted a lot of nutty things over the years but I'll stick my neck out for the gold kit.
     
  12. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #37 fatbillybob, Aug 20, 2011
    I'm not sure if the harness will be part of the kit. I did not know the kit was not yet ready for prime time. I'm not sure how Dave will package it but I think the harness is essential. I dinked around and rebuilt my FI harness with the gold pin and new plugs from SRI as part of the beta test. The problem is the OEM harness is such cr@p from the connector to connector! It is just lame period. My rebuild of the OE harness is truely putting "lipstick on a pig." It is the intense heat that kills it. I expect it to die another death but I do not know when. What Dave has said which I truely believe is that the outcome of the Gold Kit is directly proportional to how much effort and attention to detail the owner puts in it. Dave already knew this and already had the NEW SRI harness in development but I was allowed to go ahead and see what I could do "putting lipstick on the Pig". My playing around led to more updates to his new harness design and the FBB2 pin remover tool. Later I was sent almost the final harness version and then Dave upped his game more with the final version which I have not seen yet. I can tell you the final will be better than what I got to play with. The version I played with was already a hundred times better than factory and looked like it came off the space shuttle. Maybe Dave will chime in about the "making and TESTING" the new harness but all I can say is "testing was extreme" and you will be happy with the results.
     
  13. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #38 moorfan, Aug 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    FBB I would love to get the gold kit from Dave Helms...I am a total believer in the idea of doing that. I just can't get anyone to sell it to me :-(

    Drained the coolant from the 550 today and discovered that there was maybe a gallon of coolant in the entire system. That's it. Boo. I did a 3 gallon flush with distilled water until the drainage ran clear and then began to break down the cooling system.

    I did discover that coolant was also leaking from the gaskets of the head water manifolds, so those are now on order. Used my shop vac and a small hose to snake down into the head passages to suck out as much coolant liquid as I could in there.

    I have begun installing the SRI hoses...they are very high quality. Photo one shows the beginnings of the reinstall process, and photo two shows the valley after a thorough cleaning (although the intake manifold mating surface hasn't been cleaned yet)
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  14. dersark_painclinic

    dersark_painclinic Formula Junior

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    #39 dersark_painclinic, Aug 21, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2011
    Pete, You may want to put some blue Loctite to the head water manifold bolts prevent it from coming lose from engine vibration. I do not know the amount of torque for nuts.
    Your step by step presentation is amazing. I can not wait to see when you do the water pump and the belts. Sark
     
  15. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #40 moorfan, Aug 21, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I realize with Sark's post that I didn't do too much step by step with the removal of the valley cooling system. It is relatively straightforward with one exception.

    The block receives coolant via the head water manifolds. Those manifolds are connected to the coolant flow via a metal duct that sits on top of the water manifolds. This duct is what the "big fatty" water hose connects to on top of the engine.

    There is an aluminum pipe that is screwed into the underside of this metal duct via threads. Those threads are coated with some sort of threadlocker/goo (photo 1) The pipe heads toward the rear of the car, wraps behind bank two, where it joins to a hose that leads to the expansion tank. This hose is one that is to be replaced with an updated SRI hose. It is nearly impossible to reach the pipe/hose union which occurs behind bank two. The pipe is also bolted to the back of the cylinder head, making it difficult to maneuver it.

    I was tempted to just unbolt the metal duct from the head water manifolds, and spin the metal duct on the aluminum pipe to release it. The head water manifolds will not be removable without disassembling this apparatus. A ginger test revealed that this would be a very bad idea, as the aluminum pipe is quite soft and malleable. Twisting too hard would likely snap the union right off the end.

    The answer came by placing an adjustable wrench on the hex flange of the aluminum pipe below, and placing a long socket on the water temp sensor located in the metal duct. (photo 2 and 3). By working these in countertraction, the threadlocker cracked and the metal duct is easily spun off the pipe.

    Incidentally, my injectors arrived yesterday from Mr. Injector. Great service from this gentleman...I would highly recommend him.
    One injector was flowing 7% less than spec, a few were 3% less than spec, and then the remainder were flowing at spec. He replaces all O-rings and filters, all for $16 an injector. What a deal! (photo 4)
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  16. tritone

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    #41 tritone, Aug 21, 2011
    Pete-
    WOW !

    Thanks very much for your step by step description. This is great stuff, even if I just get a tech to follow it, not me......

    Tritone
     
  17. 166&456

    166&456 Formula 3

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    #42 166&456, Aug 21, 2011
    I also got great service from the Mr Injector gentleman, very recommendable indeed.
     
  18. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #43 moorfan, Aug 21, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Since I'm just sittin on the dock of the bay waiting on parts for the other projects for the 550, I thought today I would do a DIY Oil change post. There have been other threads about this subject in the past...and some have degraded into pissing contests about how best to do it.

    This is how I did it. That's it.

    Step one is to put your car on your lift. :)))
    Step two....crack the oil tank just behind the drivers side headlight (photo 1)
    Step three..according to WSM you must drain three places...the sump drain (photo 2), the reserve tank drain (photo 3), and the two oil filters.
    I drained in the following order...sump, tank, filters.
    Replace the copper crush rings that you got from your friendly parts supplier (thank you Ricambi) and retorque your two drain plugs to 75n-m. (thank you Taz and Brian Crall) (photo 4)
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  19. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #44 moorfan, Aug 21, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    To remove filters, GET THE HILL ENGINEERING WRENCH. It makes life SO much easier. (photo 1 and 2)
    My filters were obviously torqued previously by a very aged hand-tight tech. They were leaking.

    The Hill wrench allows you to torque them to proper specs (these ferrari filters are SO advanced they actually tell you what to do, pictured with my oil choice in photo 3).

    I drained between 14 and 15 quarts out of my car. Could possibly be the reason for my intake valves looking like they do and the amount of oil I found in the intake?

    Also did the thermostat today. Don't have much to say about that other than I don't know the tightening torque and make sure to realign your thermostat bleed directly under the bleed screw (photo 4)
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  20. dersark_painclinic

    dersark_painclinic Formula Junior

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    #45 dersark_painclinic, Aug 21, 2011
    Pete, would you please re submit a picture of the Actuator attached to the back of the intake manifold which is not included in the second picture. Sorry for the inconveince.
    Thanks, Sark
     
  21. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #46 moorfan, Aug 21, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Sark...I currently have the whole thing taken apart because the intakes are going for powdercoating tomorrow. I can send you a picture of the actuator alone, or if you want the whole apparatus it will have to wait a while.


    Friends, now I need your help.
    I've been doing lots of odds and ends tasks today. The first time I drove the car on my lift one of the thermocouple wires (which were both dangling below the car in a rather stupid fashion) caught on one of my jacks and tore. I ordered a replacement thermocouple thinking it would be a 10 minute job to change it out. WRONG.

    I worked this thing back and forth and forth and back after I had unscrewed the nut, but could NOT get it to come out of the probe hole. Eventually it broke off, and I am left with the situation in photo 1.

    I have a few options it seems...strain my wrist trying to twist the stub further but I can't see how I'm going to get it out that way. Option two seems to be to take a probe and knock it into the cat, and hope that it will either stay there or get blown out the exhaust. Option three involves drilling through the center of the probe with the hope that "coring it out" will allow me to pull it out.

    Please give me some opinions....:)
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  22. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    #47 Cribbj, Aug 21, 2011
    Pete, I'd first try some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster on it, along with alternately heating it with a torch, then cooling it with some freon, etc. while trying to twist, wiggle and extract it.

    If that doesn't work, then I'd get progressively more aggressive with it :) using first a stud remover, then an easy out, and finally drilling the center of it out.

    Knocking it into the cat, I would think, would be the solution of last resort, as it's always going to be rattling around in there and may damage something.
     
  23. dersark_painclinic

    dersark_painclinic Formula Junior

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    #48 dersark_painclinic, Aug 21, 2011
    Pete, I just wants to know, in order to lift up the intake manifold, you should disconect only the # 53 on the diagram below from selenoid or other things involved. Thanks. Sark

    http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=315
     
  24. dersark_painclinic

    dersark_painclinic Formula Junior

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    #49 dersark_painclinic, Aug 21, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2011
    Pete, According to WSM the thermostat bleed should be at the heighest point, at 12 o'clock. I just hand tighten and is OK.
    Sark
     
  25. ferraridriver

    ferraridriver F1 Rookie

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    #50 ferraridriver, Aug 21, 2011
    I'd try grabbing it with vice grips and just keep turning and pulling. It's just carbon buildup on the probe that's keeping it from coming out. I doubt heat is going to help. I don't know what effect Liquid Wrench would have on the matrix of the converter.
     
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