Rough idle after start when cold. Help????

First of all, yes, I did a bunch of searches and reading already......

Last time I drove my car, an 88.5 3.2 with 16K miles was a few weeks ago.
It ran great - no problems.

Just went down to start it in preparation for a drive and its sick.

It turned over and started as usual, however a minute or so after it started the idle became erratic. I got in to give it a little gas in hopes to smooth it out and it the engine would not increase in RPM's, it just seemed as thou I could hear a soft back fire back there.

I shut her off and started it again and for an instant, it ran normal and then quickly became erratic again. By erratic, I mean lower RPM's - almost as if it wanted to stall.

Another clue is that the exhaust seems to be very rich with fuel.

I poked around looking for vacuum leaks as suggested in previously found posts and did not see anything. Also read about un-plugging a sensor but I am unsure which one..... Is it the one with the blue connector that is inserted into the plenum - with a black hose going into it?

I hope to get some sound advice from fellow Mondial F-Chatters.

Come on guy's!

- Ron Frohock

 

That there are no warning lights on now and hasn't been any in the past. The car also has been very well maintained locally by Ferrari of New England. All services up to date with nothing deferred. It's been a great car. This is my first problem.

Any suggestions warmly welcomed.

Thanks!

- Ron

 

Ron,

My 88 3.2 did the same this morning at start up, but after I give her some gas, it seems to have aligned and all is normal. These cars don't work good if you let it sit too long, you have to drive it 3 times a week if possible. Take it out for a spirited drive once its nicely warmed up, have to blow the dust and burn the carbon buildup. It does not matter how well you maintain it, a car parked is bad on everything from engine, to electronics to pumps and motors!

 

I don't know that I can get the car to a drivable state.
I can't get it past the rough idle. If I try to give it a little gas, it won't repond with increased RPM's. It just seems to cough softly. Again, it running really rich. Thats got to be a significant clue.....
I can't stand it when I have a sick car and I'd love to drive it tomorrow. Plus, Tutto Italiano is next weekend.
- Ron

 

If it's a US version, did you confirm/deny if the frequency valve was physically buzzing when the engine is running (even if poorly) as mentioned in the 328 thread that you resurrected?

 

Hi,
I don't know if you read my post but my engine ran rough at cold and stayed like that till I sprayed the wire and plug that goes into the coils with contact cleaner. I also unplugged and plugged all spark plug leads to the spark plugs and fro coil.
It improved a lot but iam sure that once my mechanic tunes it up something will turn up. A bad lead, distributed cap, etc..
I hope it helps.

Lino

 

I'm so glad to see that you posted on this.
No I haven't yet. But I will first thing in the AM. I'm east coast...
I read the post and then had to run out to pick my son up at work.
I'd go down to the garage now but it's late now and I cant start the car without waking the wife.
I will start the car and reference the diagram. I have noticed the FV buzzing in the past.
If it isn't buzzing, then what is the next step, or should I unplug the cold start connector that is connected to the plenum?

Again, thanks for your time and great advice.

- Ron

 

I'll also give that a try.
I have some contact cleaner on hand.
I can't wait till the AM.
Thanks for your advice.
- Ron

 

Ron, did you drop a coil? Maybe you should check to see if you have spark to both banks. Steve is clearly the expert, but what you descibe is exactly what happened to me when I dropped an ignition coil, except my drive slowly light was on because the car was already hot and about to self-ignite.

 

I'm about to go down to start the car. I'm wondering how to check the coils.... I know they are high voltage, so no jokes about putting your tongue on them.
Also, I'm wondering if I should just let the car run at rough idle to see if it smooths out once warmed completely.

 

What's next?
Ron

 

Check for voltage at the FV connector. He said one of the wires should be at 12 v.
There is no power at either wire.
I also disconnected the FV connector while the engine was running and there was no change. Still a bad idle.
I found mention of a fuse in the protection circuit, but I don't know where the fuse is. Does anyone know?
I also jiggled and visually inspected all of the wires at the fuse box at the front of the car and did not see anything that look out of sorts.

Thanks
Ron

My cell is 508-341-7440 if anyone wants to call me.

 

Find the protection relay in your rear trunk (Item H, Fig 64, page 72 in your 481/87 OM), and inspect the 10A fuse:

If the 10A fuse is blown, try a new fuse. If the new fuse blows -- you'll need to measure the DC and AC voltage from the alternator (with the engine running at ~2K RPM -- again, even if poorly) to make sure they are not something crazy (that 10A fuse is supposed to blow if the alternator goes haywire). If the new fuse solves the problem, consider yourself unbelievably lucky

If the 10A fuse is not blown, as a test, use a jumper wire to connect the wire on terminal 30 to the wire on terminal 87 (which simulates a "closed" protection relay) and try start/running the engine and recheck if the FV is buzzing. If the FV is buzzing, most likely, the protection relay is bad, but there are some futher voltage measurements to really be sure, so let me know if we have to go there and I'll describe.

 

That the ecu and FV protection circuit was located close to the antenna in the trunk. I removed the panel and did not see anything back there other than the antenna. Maybe that post was not for a 3.2?

I need to find the protection circuit for the FV.

Thanks
Ron

 

Was posting while you were.
Il look at the owners manal and post back.
Thanks so much for your help.

 

Where in the trunk is it located?
I removed the carpet on the passenger side and did not see the item in the picture on page 72. A previous post mentioned that it would be found there. Do I need to remove the entire carpet?
88.5 3.2 US Spec
Thanks
Ron

 

This is for a 328, not a 3.2 Mondial, but your OM figure implies the same kind of location. Lift the trunk carpet on the passenger side and see if there are some screws holding in a small flat panel section of the floor -- the electrics might be mounted to the underside of this panel:
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I understand it's under the mat.
Will remove it now and post back

 

The fuse was good but I replaced it anyways.
I started the car and it is still running rough. I had my hand on the FV and for an instant it worked and the car began to idle. Only for an instant thou. It's back to crapolla.

Whats next?

I'm worried that I am at the extent of my technical abilities.......

 

I repeat -- If the 10A fuse is not blown, as a test, use a jumper wire to connect the wire on terminal 30 to the wire on terminal 87 (which simulates a "closed" protection relay) and try start/running the engine and recheck if the FV is buzzing. If the FV is buzzing, most likely, the protection relay is bad, but there are some futher voltage measurements to really be sure, so let me know if we have to go there and I'll describe.

Do you have a multimeter to make some voltage measurements?

 

My relay has4 pins so it must be the new type.
I just sprayed the terminals with contact clean. I'm going to reinstall it soon and give a go again but I think further help will be needed.
Is there a way to check for power at the connector with the relay out or should I do something else?
Thanks

 

Yes, it seems a good thing that we're avoiding that extra complication

The "jumper" test that I previously described will help confirm/deny if you have +12V power on the wire connected to terminal 30 (that wire should always be +12V -- even with the key "off"). Alternatively, if you have a voltmeter:

1. just measure (in the socket with the protection relay unplugged) the voltage between the wire normally connected to terminal 30 and the wire normally connected to terminal 31 (ground) = should always be +12V (whether the engine is running or not). If it is +12V:

2. measure the voltage (still in the bare socket with the protection relay unplugged) with the engine running between the wire normally connected to terminal 15 and the wire normally connected to terminal 31. If that is also +12V, you can be 99.9% sure that you need to buy a new protection relay.

 

I'm sorry.
I just did the jumper test and the FV started to buz and the car started and runs fine.
I can't tell you he re dived I am.
Yes I do have Digtal vow. But I have to admit that I am a novice.
I can't thank you enough for the help so far.
What's next?

 

Make the two voltage measurements described in post #22 (the jumper test already proved that you will pass test #1 -- so if you don't get +12V in test #1 you have some multimeter pilot error):

If you have +12V in test #2 = buy a new protection relay

If you fail test #2 = that's trouble...let's hope that we don't go there...

 

Correct?
Thanks
- Ron