How to paint.. . ??

I would do the color first, slightly spraying past the reveal line, then do the Boxer Black last (and it tapes to the TOP of the reveal line detent)

You could do it the other way, but why??

Paying attention to the gloss and flow of the top color is 90% of the work, spraying satin black on the lowers could be done in High School Auto Shop, IMO.

I have done it in my driveway..... (touch up repairs)

Your painter will know.

 

Ahh...I see now!

 

Hopefully, your painter will use a fine line tape for the job, not masking tape as it looks like was done on the rear corner in the picture above. Don't want a ragged edge. You want a nice, clean, sharp line.

 

3M FineLine tape absolutely!

 

This really is a simple color/stripe layout. Your painter should know.
Back in the day, the lower layout was nothing more than a matte black material sprayed on after masking the color. Now you are talking about a 2 stage matte clearcoat? Use as little material as possible to keep the fineline tape edge to a minimum.

 

Are you doing this yourself or having a paint shop do it?

 

You need to go into the booth with him...

The red needs a much thicker application to get the visual depth, several passes when wet before the flowout......then once cured the black goes on.

With fine line tape he may well paint to the same tape seam, there is no overspray.

I used to watch them paint my cars, without respirators.....simpler times.

 

What I think > I'd get two aluminum panels, couple sq ft each and do a panel each way, from primer to clear coat.

I don't know if you are paying $5k or $12k for the job (the traditional range), but what's at stake is worth the an extra couple hundred dollars for several hours and paint. Perhaps the painter will split the expense, although you stand to get a better paint job, he's the one gaining experience. It will also prove the pinstripe technique and allow several types of tape to be used.

 

Even brushstrokes!!!

 

You are making this more complicated then it really needs to be
Prep the whole care
Tape up the whole care
Shoot the lower rockers up to and slightly over the revel line with Single stage matte black, 60% gloss

Once dry tape off the black with fine line tape
Scotch pad the 1" area of black that will now be color
Shoot the car in base
Shoot the clear coat and its done.

you dont want to apply the black matte after you do youe BC/CC paint.
if you tape over the BC/CC paint you might run the risk of black overspray on the new paint or black bleeding through the tape onto the BC/CC paint

 

Do you plan on painting over existing paint?
What is your budget for materials only?

 

What are you doing about the lights, bumpers, door handles, wheels, chrome trim, cowl, wipers, etc. etc.?


Good luck be sure to post during and after shots too.

 

According to me, the rad exit grille on the bonnet or the rad inlet grille below the bumper line?.....

The rad exit should always be silver, silver on Euro cars for sure.

 

My stripping experience is with older paints; not the new clear coat systems. During high school, I worked in a body shop and we used to strip the old 1970's muscle cars. My suggestion is to paint the whole car red let it dry then mask, scuff and paint the flat black strips. Immediately after shooting the flat black, I would pull the tape-off. If you remove the tape while the paint is wet the edges will sink. Conversely, if the paint dries the edge will be "torn" and it will have sharp edges.
About 10 years ago I had a '70 SS Chevelle. I had to touch-up the hood once and repaint completely once too. Acrylic enamel was used and the tape was pulled-off right when the gun was set-down. The edges of the stripes looked great even where there were blends.
For your stripes, because of durability, you may want to use acrylic enamel with hardener. I would put the first coat on with-out flattening compound and the second coat with flattening compound added. With catalyzed acrylic enamel you need to add a lot of flattening compound; I used to use as much flattening compound as paint (then add reducer). I do not have any experience with flattening in urethane clear coats, but I think it would be better to not have clear on the stripes. If you don't have clear it is very easy to touch a spot-up.
You can try samples and see what works. A big problem with flat paint is that you can not sand & buff any rough tape edges.
Have fun and keep us posted on what you decide.
Best,
Mark

 

Mine are metallic black. Appears to maybe be powder coat and not paint. Can't tell for sure.

 

in my case, that would explain a lot!!