What's the best way to replace the WUR | FerrariChat

What's the best way to replace the WUR

Discussion in '308/328' started by DWPC, Nov 4, 2011.

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  1. DWPC

    DWPC Formula Junior

    Mar 10, 2011
    733
    Sedona AZ
    Full Name:
    Dennis
    I received my rebuilt WUR and it goes on tomorrow. On my '85, it looks like it may be simpler to remove the WUR and its bracket as a unit than to get at the mounting bolt for the WUR. Can anyone confirm that this is correct before I start loosening things?
     
  2. fletch62

    fletch62 Formula Junior

    Mar 8, 2004
    333
    Fairhope, AL
    Full Name:
    Larry Fletcher
    That is probably the best, but you will miss the joy of serching for that nut or washer that got away and never made it to the ground.

    Larry Fletcher
    www.cisflowtech.com
     
  3. DWPC

    DWPC Formula Junior

    Mar 10, 2011
    733
    Sedona AZ
    Full Name:
    Dennis
    Thanks Larry...as you see I got the unit this afternoon.
     
  4. phrogs

    phrogs F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 13, 2004
    7,348
    Kzoo Michigan
    The correct way!
     
  5. lostbowl

    lostbowl Formula 3

    Apr 30, 2009
    1,246
    Michigan
    Full Name:
    Tom
    +1 ---Kudos to Larry she starts first try everytime! Lost
     
  6. DWPC

    DWPC Formula Junior

    Mar 10, 2011
    733
    Sedona AZ
    Full Name:
    Dennis
    Easy! It took me about twenty minutes swap out the old WUR with the rebuilt WUR from Larry. Remove two nuts on the intake manifold, unplug the connector and undo the hose and the WUR and bracket are off. Messing with the recessed allen head screws on the WUR base while on the engine would have been a serious profanity inducer. My only minor issue is that the WSM has no torque setting for tightening the manifold nuts.

    I saw immediate improvement from the rebuilt WUR; the bogging down is gone and cold drivability is great. My backside dyno detects better power. There's still a little roughness but I expected that. If I'm lucky, it's just air in the CIS that will clear in a few miles. If not, the new WUR puts me on firm footing for diagnosing the real cause.

    My first order of business today is to get the idle down. With the correct control pressures restored, it jumped to 2500 RPM cold, 1500 warm. I plan to defeat the fast cold idle completely.
     

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