328 auxillary air valve

The layers of analog-mechanical complexity of the CIS add-ons necessary to comply with emission limits for the first minute or two after start-up never fails to astonish me.

 

Agree 100% what a PITA this stuff is.

 

Were you able to get in touch with these folks?

 

Having looked again at mine, its different to the type pictured earlier in this thread, it is sealed with a swaged seam, would be difficult to open at least without a grinder!
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The pictures in the parts book show the version with the rivets being for US cars and the no-rivets being the non-US version. Go figure...

 

Any more updates?

 

I'm glad to see this issue revived. It appears to be a custom part, even a new one will be at least 20 years old. So I gave up and I now start the engine by slightly pressing the accelerator, as other owners.

I looked into the AAV for my 84 QV some time ago. Bosch 0280140229

While looking into similar AAVs, I noticed that the valve from a 308 2V 81-83 is the same as in a Volvo or Audi.

I believe the part number for the 2V AAV is:

Bosch 0280140104

http://www.autohausaz.com/audi-auto-parts/audi-air_mass_meter-replacement.html

Has anybody looked into this part? Maybe making an adapter plate? Grinding/drilling the base to fit the mounting on the expansion tank? Adding adapters for the hoses? Is the resistance of the heater element the same? Same connector?

The only use of the auxiliary air valve is to increase the rpm when the engine is cold, it should close when warmed up by the heat of the expansion tank and/or the electrical heating element.

 

Sounds like the one you received is similar to the ones on Euro cars.

 

Came across that same page at Autohaus, but not sure that they actually have the ...104 part anymore, and it's just an old photograph example. If you look down below in the Audi parts lists there's no "Auxillary Air Valve" entry, and, if you search on the ...104 part number, nothing comes up.

 

Question: if the mounting and hoses issues are solved, will a 104 part work in a QV? Is the resistance in the heating element the same? Time to open and close is similar?

An AAV only opens when cold and closes when warm, so any AAV would be better than ours that is pretty much stuck closed after 25 years.

 

No information, but there might be some differences in time-to-close and/or open area vs time and maybe the thermal retention/insulation properties.

The voltage applied to the internal heater coil is the same in all cases, so no worries there, and certainly agree with your idea that a working, but maybe slightly different, AAV must be better than known "bad" correct AAV.

 

Yes, timing will definitely be the main issue. Right now my current timing (I'd say all of ours) is pretty much set to never as they are all stuck closed

The full opening can be solved with an air blocker, block with a smaer hole, so our engines will not rev at 2500 rpm when cold

Does the voltage to the heater element come from a relay or some electronics? Sorry, I don't have a wiring diagram

If a relay is sending 12V then the resistance is not an issue as full battery voltage is applied to the heating element

If the heating element is connected to the output of a transistor or other variable voltage generator, then a randomly chosen AAV may not work if the resistance in the heating element is different

I do not worry about the temperature applied to the body as all cars operate at about the same temperature. I like the arrangement of placing the AAV directly under the recovery tank as water is constantly circulating, even with the closed thermostat

 

I would guess the only reason the US cars AAV is larger than the Euro AAV is to allow more air for a faster cold idle, to warm up the cats quicker. The smaller AAV would probbaly work fine and give the lower cold idle speed of Euro cars.
The 12 volt supply to the AAV is a direct feed when ignition is on. It does not vary in voltage.

 

The German I need to get all the info from is on vacation, this is after dealing with two other Germans to figure out who I really needed to talk to. I have talked to the person in charge of the rebuilding also, he can't make any deals but I can get facts. I should know very soon what we can do, Bosch will need cores to rebuild.

WURs The 132 altitude adjusting type Bosch is not making a run of them and they don't rebuild them. There is not enough demand to have the resistors made. If the need came up I could have them made by the OE supplier. Rolls Royce and Bently also used this type of WUR. I have been buying these type cores (also used on some VW and Volvos) and have lots of parts. I also am working with bosch to buy thier remaining stock of these WUR parts.

Ya'll don't need to worry about the WURs. I can set up several different ones to work for your cars. The 132 WUR has several functions that most of you will never use. Lets see a show of hands, how many of you need the extended warmup time for sub zero temps? How many of you drive from sea level to over 8000 ft? For the ones that don't we can make almost any WUR work, it's just a pressure regulator.

Larry Fletcher
www.cisflowtech.com

 

I've heard the mixture is set at factory and should be the last thing to adjust. Best to make sure all the sub systems are working right before going there.

 

The only new AAR I could find is for a BMW, from OReily, about $84. I can't find the Volvo ones any more.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Auxiliary++Air+Regulator/03778/C0018.oap?make=BMW&model=320i&year=1982&vi=1011531

Thank you for confirming that the heating element is connected to 12V. I also like the idea of getting one with a smaller hole, so the car will not idle at 2500 rpm when cold.

I'll take mine out and head off to O Reilly before all these AAVs are sold out.

 

Its possible that these are available here in the UK for less cost as they were used on many European cars. Suppliers such as http://www.kmipetrolinjection.co.uk/index.htm might have these. I can phone them on Monday if you wish.