Guys, I have the following cam belt drive bearing references for a 308/328. Can you please confirm the references for the outer 328 and 308 bearings? 308 Inner SKF 6201-J outer SKF 6203-2RS1/C4HT51 or 6203-2RS1/C4VG154 ? 328 outer SKF 630647 Thanks!
So judging by this thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92021&page=4 it seems to go like this: Early 308's and GT4's (both bearings lubricated by engine oil) Inner SKF 6201-J Outer SKF 6203 (can be 6203-2RS1/C4HT51 stripped of its shields) Late Carb'd cars, Injected Cars, & QVs Inner SKF 6201-J Outer SKF 6203-2RS1/C4HT51 328 Inner ?????? Outer SKF 630647 However, judging by most parts suppliers the later type outer bearing fits "288 GTO, 3.2 Mondial/Cabriolet/T, 308 Quattrovalvole, 308 Quattrovalvole USA, 328 GTB/GTS, F40, GTB/GTS Turbo, Mondial Quattrovalvole Cabriolet, Mondial Quattrovalvole USA" I see that the inner bearings are the same for cars up to the Quattrovalvole but the 3.2 engine uses a different one. Is SKF 6201-J in fact for the 3.0 engine or for the 3.2 ? It would be great to hear from those that have already replaced theirs and can help with facts! Yes, I want to replace my 328 bearings next winter
Just for the 3.0 inner. For the basic bearing sizes, I have: 3.0 2-valve thru early 308 4-valve: inner = SKF 6201 = 12 ID x 32 OD x 10 wide outer = SKF 6203 = 17 ID x 40 OD x 12 wide late 3.0 4-valve and 3.2 4-valve: inner = SKF 6301 = 12 ID x 37 OD x 12 wide outer = SKF 630647 = 17 ID x 44 OD x 14 wide
The inner bearing pictures on the left is an original SKF (note the engraved markings). The outer bearing pictured on the right is a fake SKF (note the absence of any markings). Both bought via the official channel and packed in original boxes. 12'000 mls later, the front outer bearing seized and destroyed the pulley drive shaft in the process. Of course I shouldn't have put the one without markings in... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for the wakeup call!! I will keep that in mind! By the way, would you know a source for SKF 630647?
Actually, those are SEALED bearings not in contact with any other lubricant than the original grease packed at the factory - so, if there was a water issue, it must have been in there "originally". It sure looks like rust... really nasty. The other side looked OK but didn't feel quite right either.
True that that outer (shown with the box) is a sealed bearing, but I wouldn't be happy about receiving a SKF bearing with "RS" seals rather than "RS1" seals. The RS seals can be either Polyurethane (low temp) or synthetic rubber (high temp); whereas, the RS1 seals are synthetic rubber -- could be a bit of a cr*p shoot for the RS seal material.
Yes, I'm aware of that, but at £128 or £96 plus VAT each I'd rather find an SKF source, if there is one. I coudn't find one so far ...
Steve, Over the past 10 years,, "Thanks!" for all the free information about Ferraris, in general. ( You sure know your Guido stuff.) For my Late build 1981 Mondial 8, F-106 motore', 308 2V, outer bearing front cover.. I indeed hope my "Shielded," SKF bearings are not faux,,, aka fake. I also hope they don't weep grease. Edwardo Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, it's not a disaster to have used the shielded type outer bearing (based on how we usually drive our F). The bigger risk is water intrusion from the outside, but the belt drive sprocket does cover them fairly well, and does form a fairly good labrynith path to protect from outside water spray -- but don't drive thru any 0,5 m deep water puddles
Some guys wash their cars so often they might as well drive through deep water. Less washing, more driving.
Not sure that I would label either C3 or C4 as "ideal" as I've never seen any solid information about what the Designer really specified (and it might be different for the early vs late design). IMO, a bearing purchased from a F part supplier today, even a F Dealer, can still be sort of a "substitute" as lubes have changed, SKF now has the magic "Explorer" designation (whatever that means), etc.. Also, I'd say that it is a bit like spark plug heat ranges where there might be a true optimal, but +/-1 either way can usually still be OKish. My personal preference would be to use C3 (extra radial clearance) on the early design as any outer bearing radial runout gets magnified by about ~2X into the sprocket runout by the mounting geometry. Also, since the early design has the outer bearing running in the engine oil bath, its temperature should be lower and more uniform (so less differential expansion for outer race vs inner race and less need for the initial, room-temperature radial clearance to accommodate this). For the later design, I'd go with the C4 (extra extra radial clearance) as the runout magnification to the sprocket is reduced, and the temperature might be higher and less uniform for outer race vs inner race. JMO -- use at your own risk
Any engraved or edged markings on the bearing itself? I am pretty sure the cardboard boxes of my fake bearings were original...
Getting into the front cover removal to get into the inner bearings.i see your picture shows the cover off! Any insight or more pictures of the cover coming off?I am pulling the oil pan off "again" to get a better look inside at the pickup tube.any pointers would be greatly appreciated Thanks Ryan
Hi Ryan There are vertical studs preventing the front cover from being removed horizontally: Image Unavailable, Please Login So the sump has to come off before you can pull the cover. There is a small special seal on one of the studs next to the pick-up pipe that is easy to overlook: Image Unavailable, Please Login Make sure you get a new one or it might leak around there: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Hope this helps! Cheers Urs
Thank you very much for the tips! They helped me greatly in this process. Believe it or not I got the oil pickup tube out with the oil pan off! I had to cut and weld some custom wrenches to get the pickup tube nuts off..not an easy thing to do but after struggling for a couple hours it was out. Removing the studs from under the cover plate it came off pretty easily. Picked up a bearing puller yesterday and will try to get the inners out today. Waiting for the new bearings to arive in the mail hopefully today! A trip to Algar on Monday to get that little seal and new cam bolts any will be read for reassembly. Thank you again Ryan Image Unavailable, Please Login